Stage Floor Replacement

[VeeDubTDI]

Well, it's finally finally happening. We're getting a new floor to replace our worn out, 19 year old, heavily used tongue and groove floor.

The new floor will be two layers of plywood on top of the plywood underlayment that's on top of the sleepers (3 layers total), with the top surface being A grade and painted black.

Here are some pics to feast your eyes upon. Sorry for the crappy cell-phone quality of some of them. Others aren't so bad.

Click to make the images full-size. I'll be posting more as the project progresses.

[VeeDubTDI]

As you can see, the pit covers downstage are not getting replaced. They're in good shape, and we will just sand them down and paint them black.

[Footer]

No Maso? ???

[DaveySimps]

I agree, why not Masonite as a top layer? I just checked my local pricing. I can get 3/4" Masonite cheaper than 3/4" grade A ply. Plus, it is a better surface for theatre in general. Just curious.

~Dave

[derekleffew]

It may be too late, but if it were me, I'd get those soft goods off the floor and bagged/wrapped with Visqueen ASAP! I agree that the top surface should not be painted pine plywood. I've only used Masonite in 1/4" and 1/8" thinknesses, and would agree that's a better top layer.

Do you intend to permit screwing on your new stage?

[Van]

Originally Posted by derekleffew

.....
Do you intend to permit screwing on your new stage?

I'm a huge fan of 1/4" MDF as opposed to Masonite. It tends not to buckle as much. 'Course there's nothing that say you can't always go in and lay a layer of MDF over the top layer of ply as a prophylatic measure.......

[derekleffew]

Originally Posted by Van

...of 1/4" MDF as opposed to Masonite. ...

What's the difference? Isn't MDF the same as untempered Maso? And while were on the subject, since Masonite no longer manufactures sheet goods, what's the new version actually called? HDF? Should the glossary entry be edited?

Another gem of wisdom that Van previously liked: Prime all six surfaces of any pressed-fiber sheetgood before laying.

[SteveB]

Originally Posted by Van

'Course there's nothing that say you can't always go in and lay a layer of MDF over the top layer of ply as a prophylatic measure.......

Unless the planned layer is flush with doors, entry way, etc... Not to mention pit limits needing to be reset. Adding even a 1/4" layer sometimes throw's everything off.

Steve B.

[MillburyAuditorium]

Congrats on the new stage :D Ours needs a good sanding To many dance academy's using the wrong tape :P

Quick question for anyone, How come some theatres paint the stage black? I prefer the glossy brownish look myself. Does it do something to the lighting? Or is it just prefernece?

[Van]

Originally Posted by derekleffew

What's the difference? Isn't MDF the same as untempered Maso? And while were on the subject, since Masonite no longer manufactures sheet goods, what's the new version actually called? HDF? Should the glossary entry be edited?
....

I'm glad you asked. MDF or Medium Density Fiber board is made of much finer fibers, actually much more like dust. The entire sheet is impregnated with resins then press molded resulting in six sides that have the same smooth texture. When you cut through MDF the new edges have the same dense smooth edges. Masonite or Tempered Hard board is much more of a paper product. The difference in the fibers making up these two similar yet different engineered lumber products is readily evident. Masonite fibers tend to be coarser and are much more loosely packed. Masonite or tempered hardboard comes in two varieties ; single and dual sided tempering. The tempered side is the slick side, you'll notice that the back side of single sided tempered masonite has a weird textured side this is the result of the manufacturing process which is similar to hand made paper, if you've ever done that, the resultant paper has a smooth-ish top and the backside of the paper takes on the texture of the screen.

One of the main reasons I prefer MDF over Hard Board is the uniform distribution of the resins throughout the product. MDF is much more moisture resistant and therefore much less likely to buckle and therefore requires far fewer screws to secure it to a floor. Lastly MDF tends to be more more uniform in thickness than Hardboard While I do prefer MDF it is wise to take several precautions when doing extensive work with it;
The resultant dust is much finer and therefore tends to get everywhere.

There is a MUCH higher Formaldehyde content in MDF and it is strongly recommended that a dust mask or respirator be worn when working it.

MDF, because of it's higher density, can tend to dull blades a little quicker than other engineered lumber products.

MDF tends to give friction burns much more easily than Masonite, be careful when maneuvering a large sheet as simply sliding your hand to reposition your grip can result in painful burns.