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| General Advice General tips, tricks, and rules that every technician should know. |
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In the glove topic below there was a discussion on lamps that get burned out because of fingerprints. I have a cheap solution that worked great for me. Go to your local drug store and get a box of alcohol wipes. Those little ones they use on your skin before you get a shot or blood draw. They come individually wrapped, in boxes of 100 for only a buck or two. When I had my high school students change lamps I always required them to wipe the lamp before they put the instrument back together. It worked great for four years. I could let the clumsiest kid in class change a lamp and never had a problem.
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Interesting, I'm guessing that you just have to wait a few min for the alchol to evap before you turn the light on so that you don't just burn out the lamp anyway?
~Nick
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~Nicholas A [url]www.geocities.com/jnj.designs[/url] JNJ Duct Tape Designs High Quality Duct Tape Products |
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Grainger also sells them, otherwise people frequently save up the packets that come with moving light lamps for use on halogen lamps later. A spray bottle of denatured alcohol and a lint free towelette or lens cleaning tissue also work well but don't work so well atop a ladder. Perhaps a bottle and tissues while in the shop, and the packets in the pocket while on a ladder.
Amazed at how many people don't read the manual on either lamp or fixture for this recommendation. At very least and indeed very least, a packet of lens cleaning tissue would do wonders for ensuring lamps are clean. An alternative to this at least something method would be to deeply spray the lamp with the alcohol and let it drip. Neither would completly remove the oil or dirt but work some. By the time one puts the cap on, the lamp is dry in already any chemical having evaporated. This no matter what method used. Another note in changing lamps is to have a look at the pins of the lamp removed. If discolored, pitted etc. don't install the new lamp - the lamp base is potentially also bad and will quickly as if one touched the lamp, ruin the new lamp installed. Having an extra lamp cap available to either pre-lamp than climb the ladder so one is not fumbling with removing a stuck lamp atop a ladder, or at least having it available to replace a questionable base will speed up changing time. |
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I've never noticed any fibers with the medical style alcohol wipes I've used, but i'm sure that potential is there. The idea of using a spray bottle and a high quality lint free lens cleaning cloth would be a lot better, but as Ship said, it doesn't work so well on a ladder.
As for the concern about moisture, that alcohol evaporates so fast that it's practically dry before you can throw away the wipe. As long as you aren't trying to fire up the instrument within seconds of screwing the cap on, you're fine. |
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I just use the sleeve that the bulb comes in to put it in, the little cardoard or what ever that company uses. Works great, disposible, and FREE with purchase of any lamp!
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[COLOR="YellowGreen"][SIZE="5"][FONT="Fixedsys"][U][I][B]DOC[/B][/I][/U][/FONT][/SIZE][/COLOR]:mrgreen: [EMAIL="saxman0317@yahoo.com"]saxman0317@yahoo.com[/EMAIL] |
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i have a few pieces of a torn up sweat shirt that i use to change lamps if they dont have a plastic envelop
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Auditorium Manager Mentor Fine Arts Center |
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Quote:
Also, isopropyl alcohol is also known by the name Isopropanol. |
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Some lamps come in plastic. If they do I would advise handling the light opening the plastic on the end that connects with the fixture, then hold it on the plastic, plug it in and pull the plastic off. It isn't a substitute for cleaning the lamp off by any means, but it is a way to prevent fingerprints in the first place.
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distortion blows |
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This topic would appear to be running simultaneously with another on the same topic that is located here.
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| burn, destruction, finger, lamp, print |
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