Tools

[Jo-JotheSoundDog]

It is never too early for budding techs to start collecting tools for the trade. One problem with purchasing tools, however, is that as one progresses into soloing out a particular field in tech theatre the tools change quite drastically. But there are some tools that every tech should have. I figure that this would be a good place to start developing a place for everyone to post what they think might be needed or ask about the practicality of a particular tool.
I would say general techs should look into:
a toolbox, keep it reasonably sized something that can easily be carried. I kind of prefer the bag type carrying case.
screwdrivers, just a basic set of phillips and standard
a tape measure, 25'
crescent wrench,6". This seems to be the standard that a lot of ME's are pushing for these days.
a speed square
wire cutters
wire stripper
precision screwdrivers(the little ones)
a cordless drill (eventually don't rush, expensive and technology changes so fast that sometimes by rushing you end up with a piece of junk. Make sure you research)
A utility knife
I think that is a good starting point for discussion.

[delnor]

I prefer the Dewalt screw guns. They seem to hold up very well and all the dewalt stuff takes almost all the same batteries 12 or 18 volt. The keyless chucks are a wonderful feature.

[ship]

Sorry it's long, I would liked to have cut down on it but am frequently the person people turn tool at work when considering what they need or should get thus I have a lot of info on it.

-Were I just starting out and looking for a very basic and general tool kit, I would probably get the soft sided tool box too. Heck I even recently bought one. It’s a lot easier than lugging around any of my other tool boxes much less the road box. An alternative to this is that there are also some interesting shoulder bag and backpack tool kits out there. Leaves you with free hands and once you start filling up the bag, They also tend even if soft sided to get heavy fast.
But you will also need a tool box for when your tool collection grows or for working in a constant place. Get one with a few drawers so you can better organize your tools and find them. You will quickly outgrow a cloth bag and need a second place to store the tools not required for the show you are working on anyway. Use a key lock for it and have a second or third key for it in your wallet, or other place such with your boss in case you loose it. Getting multiple locks keyed the same will save time later should you need to chain your tool box up or lock up something such as a locker later.

The tool bag and tool box are stop gaps. Eventually you will be needing a road box proper if this is your career and you travel. A good one will cost a lot of money but be well worth it. You will also be needing a second set of at least the main tools for times when your tools are perhaps still on a truck and you are in the shop trying to get stuff done. Or if you have more than one place you work. Could also get an emergency call one night that something needs to be done at the last minute and your tools are at work.

Don’t be offering your tools out to others unless they have demonstrated proper respect for them, or they have just as many if not more, but just not that particular one. Even than with such people, only loan them out with your permission. Your tools not their's and don't forget it. Do not allow people -even your friends into your tool box without your supervision, or when something becomes lost much less simply not there, you will be the one replacing it not any of the suspects.

People who don’t own their own tools need to make due with shop or the bosses tools not your’s. The shop and the boss have the budget to replace them, you do not. Plus they have the power to enforce making people buy their own, respect and use properly the tools available and enforce their return. Otherwise there is no need for such people without sufficient personal tools to spend their own money on their own tools or develop the respect for what they borrow, much less the need to return them to you immediately at the end of the day or when they are done with them and not just leave them laying around. That respect comes with spending their own money on them instead of going out to eat every day or making "friends" with the person that shares their tools. Why should you invest in tools if others don’t also, you don’t make any more money than they do. If someone needs to borrow something for a moment, either suggest the other options or make sure it’s only for a moment. If it’s not returned promptly, get it back and don’t loan to them again. If such people make it a constant borrowing, tell them they need to get their own because you need your tools and they should get their own anyway, than direct them to the boss for future loans. Again, you seem to be able to budget for personal tools, why shouldn't they? It’s a nasty habit of keeping an open tool box for anyone to grab stuff from. Don’t get into it or you will quickly notice missing or broken things that will be a constant drain on your budget.



Things I think are very important and needed right away would have a (*) preceding it. Otherwise, it’s more of the starting tools most people have when working on professional calls or at shops and thus what eventually you will probably be buying anyway if this is to become your career or pastime. (***) Preceding items are officially and specifically required at the lighting company I work at and others I have worked for and (**) are Items that were suggested on another forum as normal lighting tools.

In the tool case I would put the following in it depending on what I was expecting to be doing: (Most people don’t try to pack both electrics and carpentry tools in the same bag for calls and that's the normal use for a tool bag as opposed to a tool box. Depends upon what type of job you are trying to do, what tools you put in it. Now you will be needing to learn both fields, but after the basic set of tools for both plus some for other fields, you really need to start focusing on one area.)

[Tools used for Both fields:]
-16oz or 22oz hammer (depending upon if you expect to be a electrician or carpenter. Carpenters hammering large nails need the larger hammer, but they also frequently need the smaller one for finish nails. Hammers are usually provided by the shop anyway so you don’t absolutely need one right away. However if you plan to be using one all day long, get used to one weight and brand/style or if you switch you will get blisters. They all have different handles and feels to them.)
***-8" C-Wrench/Crescent Wrench (It’s the standard I was taught at school and it’s specifically the size required in the shop I work at. If not a most of them)
But that’s a debate for another day. What ever you buy, get a good quality brand such as Klien or Craftsman, it’s warrantied and will last a lot longer. Other’s don’t have straight jaws, don’t keep their position and or just fall apart or seize up with time. There are some good quality 6" extra wide jaw C-Wrenches available by mail order out there, but I’m still sold on the proper leverage of a 8" wrench. The debate goes on. Standard 6" wrenches don’t have wide enough jaws to fit a lot of what you work on and are not heavy duty enough to un-stuck bolts. Insulated handle wrenches are comfortable to use all day long and give just a bit of added protection against shorts. Always put the large size into the direction you are turning. It keeps the jaws from opening up and stripping the bolt.)
*-Wrench lanyard (Kind of like a phone cord with hooks or rings and necessary for all tools used overhead in the industry.)
**-Sharpee, Pen and Carpenter’s Pencil (You should provide these unless in school or work provides them. An innitial set of all of them with other things such as paint markers normal pencils and other things should be your purchase as replaced by the shop as needed.)
**-AA Mag Light, Extra Batteries & Pouch (Don’t forget the extra batteries. Many shops will furnash replacements but don't depend upon it. Unfortunately re-chargable batteries don't have as long of a chage to them so they are not that useful.)
*-Leathermen (That is what ever brand of multi-tool you buy. I have a Super Leathermen but lots of people like the Wave. Were I buying, I would probably go with a Xcelite/Cooper ToolZall Electricians Pro, it has wire strippers which could be handy on a ladder in addition to the more normal features.)
- A small pair of Forceps or Tweezers (for pulling slivers and getting small parts.)
*-Electrician’s Scissors (Cuts anything including patterns.) This tool is usually not mentioned as a needed tool but in my opinion is one of the most important to buy. Klien electrician scissors are the standard and extremely useful. Use mine every day for all sorts of things.
*-Backstage Handbook (Too many useful formulas not to have. Also plenty of room for your own notes.)
***-10 in One screw driver having all the basic screw driver bits on it. (I don’t own one but most new people get one) This is the cheaper alternative than buying four or many more individual screw drivers and will fulfill most needs in the immediate future.
There is a difference between cabinet tip and normal or square shank screw drivers. Normal bladed screw drivers have a bit more steel at the blade and are thus perhaps a bit stronger, plus with a square shank at least on the 1/4 or 5/16" flat head, you are able to grab it with a C-Wrench for extra leverage. The cabinet tip of the same size however is also needed because it will allow you to get into small places such as the slot of a lamp base on a 2Kw Fresnel. Don’t buy stubby tools initially, they are not much more useful than right angle screw drivers in ease of use or other than occasional need.
*-7" Wonder Bar II (Small, Portable but really useful.)
***-9" Linesmen’s Pliers (Anything smaller isn’t going to give enough leverage or be able to cut up to a 1/4" bolt or 12/3 SO cable without much difficulty. Plus, unofficially they have about the perfect weight to be a good hammer in a pinch.) Standard Slip Joint pliers are okay for home owners but not very useful in the theater. I don’t even own a pair. Never needed them, there are a lot more tools that will do the same job better.
**-10" Curved Jaw Vise Grips (Needed for gripping things round and flat.)
***-Diagonal Wire Cutters - Dikes (Get Hardened Steel ones for cutting about anything including staples much less for staying sharp with use.) Always look at your tool when you buy it. Does it’s blade touch and match up along the entire length of the blade or is it at a slight angle. Is there any play at the hinge and even though smaller dikes are seemingly more comfortable, will they allow you to cut say a 12/3 cable without a lot of effort, much less are the blades large enough to open that far?
***-16 to 32pc 3/8" Drive Socket Set (6pt. Deep Throat if there needs to be a choice) One socket is about as good as another, but make sure that the ratchet has a warranty, you will probably eventually break it. 6point Sockets have less chance of stripping bolts.
**-Folding Allen Wrench Set (Anything from adjusting tools to fixtures, Can be and eventually will be a normal individual “L” Allen set, but it's lots easier to loose individual pieces. Also you will eventually be needing a metric set.)
***-Leather Work/Rope Pulling Gloves (They should have a tight fit and a draw string or snap. Never wear gloves while using a power tool. They can get caught and suck your hand in as opposed to possibly getting cut by the blade but being able to get your hand away. Getting a sliver is small compared to getting your glove sucked into a saw blade.) Two pair of gloves is also a good idea. One for pushing gear and handling new or oily steel than another for rigging or focusing lights.
**-25' Tape Measure (I usually carry a 16' with me and have a 30' in the box. Fluorescent colors are good)
*-Liquid Bandaid, Aspren & Bandages (Usually provided... let’s see... somewhere around here. - Bring your own.)
***-5/16" Allen T-Handle (Coffin Lock & Road Box Key)
***-Retractable Blade Utility Knife with both straight and hook blades (I like the ones with the quick release buttons. The hook knife blade is a much better blade to use when de-looming/taping cable.)

[Electrics:]
*-7" Tapered Nose Conduit Pliers (incredibly useful all around especially for fixture strain reliefs and conduit nuts, needle nose in a pinch, bolt holder, pipe holder etc.)
**-12" Channel Locks (Lets you grab big stuff)
***-Calculator style multi-meter if not Amp Probe (A clamp style multi-meter is a bit more money but if you plan to make a living at this, you will be needing to verify your power loading in addition to more normal things. Otherwise just get a small calculator like portable one. Most people just buy a normal meter, but eventually also need the clamp style, and one of better more accurate quality such as a True RMS meter. Might as well if making an investment in one, get one that does it all. Don’t let them get cold in the winter, the electronics freeze especially on cheap meters.)
***-Wire Strippers - Spring Activated (not a multi crimp/strip tool with only one specific exception) You can get more work done and easier with a good pair than a pair that tries to do everything. It’s also more comfortable to use and will do a better job of stripping wire.
**-Double Jaw Crimp Tool (This is the proper crimp tool once the front cutters are chopped off.) Other more normal crimpers or multi-tools won’t have a good crimping surface or provide enough leverage to give a proper crimp. Don’t believe me, try screwing something you crimp with your normal amount of pressure to a wall and tugging on it.
**-5/8"/3/4" Ratcheting Box Wrench (Speed Wrench for ½" Clamp bolts & Clamp 1/2" Set Screws. Avoid offset wrenches, they don’t fit into tight yokes as well.) Offset ratcheting box wrenches are needed for carpentry however because the straight types will mar the surface as they tighten the bolt.
**-Power Sniffer (Very useful in tracking down problems or verifying a circuit is safe.) Invest in a good quality one, your life is on the line and you want it to be a quality tool protecting it.

[Carpentry/Rigging]
*-Safety Glasses & Ear Plugs (Usually provided but you should own your own.) Invest in a glasses lanyard to put around the glasses so when you take them off they are still with you. Less chance of getting them broken or later not using them because you are too lazy to go track them down for a quick cut. Ear plugs are also best with at least a lanyard if not a head band so they are removable and you don’t dirty them with your fingers when having to put them in. The better ones are also available in the 20db range for more protection.
*-Nail Set (Very important to have in your pocket for nails and staples.) There are many types of punches and cold chisels that are useful but a standard nail set is what’s most needed.


Above that, I usually have: (Depending upon what I’m doing Carpentry or Electrics)

[Both:]
*-Light Weight Tool belt with mountain climbing type Chalk or zippered lens Pouch for screws or parts (Could be a simple carpenter’s belt or just a light belt with a few specific latching pouches on it. A light weight pouch is useful because of it’s light weight and lack of bulk. True carpenter's aprons get really hot and heavy on a hot day. In any case this will save your pants from it’s pockets being chewed up by a tape measure and a C-Wrench.)
**-Electrical Tape (Provided, but you should also have a roll in as many colors as you can anyway.)
-3/8" Drive 15/16" Deep Throat Socket (Cheeseborough Socket)
-Carpenter’s Calculator & 6" Scale Ruler (Very Useful when working off plans)
-1/4" to 9/16" Nut Driver Set (Good for Electrics & Rigging.) 1/4", 5/16", 11/32", 7/16" and ½" are the normal ones, but 9/16" is good for 3/8" bolts too.
**-Box Wrench Set with sizes from 1/4" to at least 3/4" (also a metric one eventually)
*-100' Tape Measure if not provided, Useful in laying out the stage & hanging points. It should be provided by most shops but if you are on a stage, it might not be.

[Electrics:]
-14" Pipe Wrench (Usually provided but sometimes you cannot find it.)
-Gam Check (Very Expensive test tool, but worth it.)
-Pin Splitter (Two styles available, one for 20 and 60amp & one for 20amp and cleaning.)
-Palm Lynx (Micro Mini Light Board for doing a lot of stuff, about the size of a wallet, but very expensive.)
-Duck Bill Pliers (Stronger than needle nose but tapered and with a wider jaw.)
-DMX tester and various terminators and DMX/XLR adaptors.
**-Needle Nose Pliers (Good for Staples, but your Leathermen will do in a pinch.)
*-Cordless Screw Driver. A good one will be 3.6v, Have removable battery packs, (buy an extra one,) a blade lock, trigger lock and locking quick release for the bits. Plus a angled handle is more ergonomic. Also having dual speed is nice in having a choice between high and low gear with lots of clutch settings. The best ones are from Panasonic and Milwaukee - both made by Panasonic. They cost at least three times that of a normal cordless screw driver but will provide constant - all day power and have more torque and other features than a $30.00 one. Normal Cordless tools are just not worth the dollars you save on them. Another option would be to go with the slightly more heavy 7.2v DeWalt cordless screw dirver/drill. It’s not much of a drill but would provide a good cordless screw driver.

[Carpentry/Rigging]
-Chalk Line (Make sure it’s full and blue is about the standard color, makes a good plumb bob also.)
-1/4" thick Speed Square (for use as a saw guide, 12" is a good size. Smaller than 1/4" thick and your saw will jump over it.)
-Long thin blade 3/16" cabinet tipped Flat Head Screwdriver for use in adjusting tools especially changing the blades on older styles of jiggsaws.
-Combination Square (For layout and scribing. Much more accurate and easy to use than a speed square. Most have levels in them, Don’t let them freeze.)
-12" Magnetic Torpedo Level (Small but very handy - magnetic so it can stick to rigging or metal frames. Remember, it’s water. Don’t let it freeze. Might be treated for low temps but why chance it?)
-C-7 Falcos/Wire Rope Cutters (For rigging work, very useful to just have your own.)
-Large Wood Chisel/Paint Scraper (Using a chisel is bad for general work, I have a reinforced Wagner Power Scaper with original style wooden handle that’s been heavily reinforced for hammering on it. It’s knife sharp for doing things like cutting foam and strong enough to act as a nailing plate, chisel and scaper. Plus it cuts small nails and staples like a pay bar. Easy to grind a new tip on it as opposed to on a chisel.)
-1" Soft Putty Knife (Good for removing shipping tags and applying materials. Get your own soft one because most shops just buy what ever is cheapest.)
-Metal Scribes and De-Burring Tool (For use in metal working and removing little burrs in material.)
-Wood Rasp or Surform Tool, Bastard and fine/oval files (Good for finishing work)
**-Parachute bag of misc. Drywall Screws, Plugs and Fasteners. (Frequently you need one or two more or a size not stocked.) Also adaptors.
-Filtered Face Mask. (Have to protect your own health because what is normally provided is not very expensive or good in protection. Plus if it is good quality but from the shop, when is the last time the filters were changed. Plus wearing other people’s masks is a good way of sharing any colds they get.)
-Small knife sharpening tool. (You don’t need any fancy wet stone that takes a lot of time and care. Most stores sell a little tool with blade guard you swipe across the blade. They work really well and are easy to use.)
-Chisel Set. I don’t recommend buying your own unless the shop you work at will pay to have them re-sharpened for you. Once they get dull they won’t work so you might as well either not use them or use the shop ones given they maintain them.

As for my drill, it lives in a shoulder holster with a secondary bit holder pouch on the strap for some common Drill Bits, a #6 Countersink bit, a few extra assorted Philips, Flat Head and Square Drive Bits, a Locking/Magnetic bit holder, Step Drill Bit, and locking 3/8" Drive socket adaptor.
In addition to that I will have two to three batteries, a charger and usually a 64 bit drill index and some metal cutting countersink bits. I use a shoulder holster because hanging your drill off your belt gets in the way and really starts to weigh it down. I also have a clip on lanyard on my drill for use overhead. It clips directly to the holster so it’s out of the way and is much more heavy duty than a belt loop. Rather not consider dropping it and breaking it verses falling myself while on a ladder and in the moment, but saving the tool. Most shops will provide you with a screw gun that is at least adequate. Eventually you will buy one, but get basic hand tools first and study what you other people use and like or dislike about their tools. A good one is a major investment anyway, don’t skimp on cost.

After that, think the first tool I bought was a Super Sawzall, than a industrial quality Jigsaw, a Worm Drive Skill Saw, than Medium Router...etc to the point I now have more or better powertools than most shops I work at. I own about 8 drills, 4 types of power saws, three types of router and three sanders alone. But that's me and I get paid extra for the tools and skill I bring with me.

But that’s me and I usually am expected to travel heavy, and these tools would be traveling very light for me. Usually my road box goes to the install.



Don’t just put colored tape on your tools, it falls off. Scribe your name into them, and spray paint or at least paint marker your colors. The more you invest in a tool, the more it’s going to stick in your head not to leave it laying around or who borrowed it, and thus the less tools you will loose when you close up and lock your tool box. Buy tools not only by price, but more importantly by their ergodynamics and quality. If your Philips Screw Driver strips out after normal use in a year, how much real value was it to you especially towards the end of it’s life when it’s difficult to drive screws with, but you are not ready to replace it? Consider what the tool would be like to use it all day for 8 hours straight. Is some hard plastic handle with sharp corners really going to be comfortable? Why buy something cheap that’s going to last you a few months inadiquately when you will only have to replace it eventually anyway? Even if this is not to become your career, a good tool will last you a long time around the house for fixing stuff. Also, you get what you pay for.


Anyone interested, about two years ago I started keeping a list of at least the electrical supplies in my road box or tools I special ordered for other people from $450.00 multi-pin crimp tools to Forceps. How much the bulk of the tools cost as priced out amongst a lot of sources and what specific tool type and part numbers are highly recommended and considered the best in quality. Granted some of the prices might be old and a few others specific to company employees but it would in general give some good sources. Otherwise, most of the sources would be posted on my working list of links you could surf for prices and tools.

One final note would be that if your crew pool together your wish list into one big order, you can have the TD or one of your dad’s walk into a contractor or electrical supply store and see what they can do for all of you on a large order. (Sorry but most contractor supply stores won't give you much of the time of day in discount or consideration while young.) You are also going to be assured of getting quality tools at such places. For instance at work we have somewhere over 50 tech people. I was tasked with pricing out various clamp meters for them to be bought in bulk. Amongst the six best in price with their own features the tech people will be able to choose. When I get between 5 and 10 people per type of meter, I’ll place the order on it. Usually it’s like $25 off when you buy over 10 at a time of a meter usually selling at like $150.00. Otherwise, I was able to find decent meters for about $50.00 when bought in quantities over 5.
Same with tools, the more you buy or the larger an account your school or pop has with the company, the more you save.
That and Sears usually has packages of Klien electrician’s starter tool sets at a good price. McMaster Carr a mail order company is another really good source for reasonable priced quality tools.

Also Grainger has a good sale on this month on all sorts of tools.

[Jo-JotheSoundDog]

Another handy book to throw in a toolbox is a pocket reference. The new release is great. It is small, and has just about everything there is to know about everything. Not just theatre stuff, so it can even help you win silly bets.

I would also recommend if one chooses the path of carpentry, to eventually buy your own saws. When I was still an active carpenter I kept in my truck's toolbox: a circ saw, a jig saw, a router, and a sawzall.
Shops generally stock these, but most of the time they are abused and neglected. It is nice Knowing that you have a well cared for tool with a new blade waiting to be used when you are asked to spend a week cutting plywood into a faux rock floor.

Another thing to consider is a corded drill. Cordless drills are great for driving screws and an occasional hole drilling. But sometimes you just need the shear power and stamina of the real mcCoy.

[dvsDave]

Ship... I noticed that you had some rather uncommon tools listed.. like the 7" Wonder Bar II...

Would you wouldn't mind editing your post to include links to descriptions of the tools... because, until I looked it up.. I had not idea what a wonder bar was...

[ship]

I just spent the night re-configuring my tool list in preperation for re-quoting it out for this year's prices and helping my co-workers get some toys as bonus checks just came in for the year. Tool lists are on the mind and there is a lot of price checking to do.

I thought I was editing my posting by not adding more info on them and excluding tools that are really job specific such as a: Weller #EC1002, Soldering Iron & Base Station, Ergonomic Pin & Stand. 60w, Calibrated Electronic Variable Temperature Control, Tip is Voltage & Field Protected, 350-850°F. as it appears on my pricing list or work table.

As for links, in an earlier posting, I listed a lot of tool supplier links, like Klien, DeWalt and others. That's the next round of links I'm working on for my tables of data - links to companies like The Stanley Works co. or Comtrex. But that might be a bit of time because there is a lot of them to track down.

What you don't know what a Wonder Bar is? That means you have not studied your Backstage Handbook much less you were sleeping in stage craft class. It's a pry bar. My Bust, I thought such a trade name was more or less standard. Recently I found the 7" version of it is very easy to put in my tool belt and have when I need it even for a job in lighting. Lost my regular Wonder Bar somewhere and have not needed to replace it. Besides there is that memory of me being inside a confined attic space once, hitting the Wonder Bar and having it become a spring sending the straight Claw Hammer into my Forehead... Bad memory, and perhaps thats why I write so much that claw hammer labotamy.

[ship]

Here is something I found on Stagecraft this morning that seems to confirm many of my ideas about dikes and other tools:

Message Number: 15
Date: Fri, 4 Apr 2003 11:07:38 -0800 (PST)
From: June Abernathy <jea00321@yahoo.com>
Subject: AME Tools

There have been a lot of great suggestions on the
list. I agree that the theater should supply tools,
but my experience is Summer Stock tells me not to
count on it. On the other hand, Summer Stock AME's
don't generally make a world shattering amount of
money, so you have to decide what you don't have
already that you really NEED to buy. And, it's
probably best to bring what you need, just because
getting to the store is not always easy once you get
there, even if you have the cash. Asking your new boss
is always a good first step. Find out, if you can,
what kind of connectors are primarily used in the
theater. Stagepin? Twistlock? Edison?

I'd say, check out these lists in terms of what you
already own, and supplement as time and budget allow.
For instance, if you don't own a meter, don't know how
to use one, and would basically spend your whole
budget buying one, don't. But you might want to make a
point of learning to use one over the Summer, if your
theater or your boss has one, so you'll know what kind
of a thing you may want to buy in the future. I'd let
the theater be responsible for expendibles like
electrical tape.

So, my list. For a basic electrician:

1) An 8" adjustable crescent wrench
I use a wide jaw, which basically means that I never
need a 10" wrench, which is a pain to carry in a
pocket, seldom needed, and gives you WAY too much
potential for overtorquing anyway. A lot of people
carry 6" wrenches. It's not a bad idea for a second
wrench, and if you get one, I'd go for the wide mouth
model. For me, it doesn't let me get enough torque to
UNdo some of the evil nuts I encounter. For a big
strong guy, it might.

(I carry extra wrenches for forgetful locals, which
you kind of have to, on the road. Even at home, I usedto have a bag of extra wrenches that I would rent out
at $5 a day to people who forgot theirs. Not a bad
idea for Summer Stock, IMO.)

2) A flashlight.
One you can carry on your belt. The AA Maglight is the
all time workhorse of the industry, and at $10, it's
affordable. High power flashlights are nice, if you
can afford them (and their batteries). A headlamp is
often very nice to have.

3) A multitool
Not to start the whole debate, find one that fits your
hand and is easy to use. I prefer one with needlenose
pliers for electrical work. A built in wire cutter is
good. Screwdriver blades are good. Little scissors are
nice.

4) A knife
I know, you can use the multitool. But it's a pain to
get to, and I prefer an easy single or double locking
blade in my pocket for cutting tie line or stubborn
tape, or a quick strip on a cable jacket. One you can
open one handed is extra good.

5) Gloves.
Gloves that can protect your hands from a hot lamp or
hot gobo, but have enough touch to let you focus a
lamp with them on. You may want a separate pair of
fingerless gloves.

IMO, the above five are the very basics. Don't leave
home without them, buy if you don't have kind of
items. As an electrician, you might also want:

6) Diagonal cutters ("dikes")
Wire cutters. Also, the safer way to strip cable
jackets. THE tool for cutting wire ties. I'd recommend
6" or 8" models. Another tiny pair for small work is
always good too.

7) Strippers/crimpers.
Get a pair that will deal with 10, 12, 14, 16 gauge
cables. The kind that let you cut off small screws are
nice, but the higher end kind will last you longer.You may want a good stripper and a separate crimper.

8) A "speed wrench". A ratcheting box ended wrench
with 3/4" and 1/2" ends. Reversing is good. An actual
"lightspeed wrench" (from various theatrical vendors)
is basically an offset version of this, with a 12
point star on the 1/2" end for better grip on square
bolts, and a 3/8" gear on the back of the smaller end
for dealing with the little pan nuts.

9) A pin splitter.
If you are using stagepin cable. Yes, you can use a
knife for this, but it isn't particularly safe, and
it's bad for the knife. Also, pin splitters generally
have a wire brush for cleaning gak off the pins.

10) A test light.
Make your own, or buy a Gam Jr. ($30), which is a
commercial version witht the indicator lamps
mercifully built in, so it's easy to jam in a pocket,
and you don't end up with a toolbag full of broken
glass. A full blown GamCheck is an excellent device,
if you can afford it ($100). It checks not only power
but continuity, in both lamps and cables. But, it's
expensive and bulky to carry.

11) A screwdriver with multiple bits.
An electric screwdriver is often a great thing to have
handy as well. A set of precision "jewelers"
screwdrivers is often VERY useful.

12) A 25' tape measure. A 100' tape is nice too.

13) Sharpies (black, particularly), and white paint
pens

14) A pen type "volt stick" tester to see if power is
present.

15) A chalk bag, fanny pack, or some other kind of
little pouch to carry stuff in, that you can cinch up
or close if you climb.

16) A meter which will check (at least) voltage and
continuity. I think simpler is better as meters go,particularly when you are just starting out.

17) A decent tool bag/box to carry all this in. I'd go
for one you can lock, even if it's a luggage lock
through the zipper of a bag.

Along these lines, MARK EVERYTHING. With your name, in
sharpie at least. With obnoxious colored tape.Engrave
them if you have the ability. Try not to lend your own
tools out, and keep track of them if you do. Don't let
your tool bag become the company tools.

You'll decide what tools you need, and what tools you
like as you go along. Keep an open mind, don't miss an
opportunity to learn something new, and have fun.

June Abernathy
FOH Electrician
Beauty & the Beast 2000

[Jo-JotheSoundDog]

Along the lines of marking tools, has anyone tried that tool dip stuff? The stuff I am thinking about is a kind of liquid rubber that comes in a handful of different colors. I think it's original purpose was to replace rubber grips that might have fallen off over the years.

[ship]

Dip-It didn't work well for me either time I tried it on tools at least. Rubbed off too easily with use when new and I waited too long the second time and it dried up. But one of my friends swares by it. I do know it works well should you need to sort of vulconize some electrical components given the heat and pressure are not there.
One idea that I didn't try with it that might work it to apply some epoxy to the tool first and let it set up or at least scuff up the tool so the Dip-It has some tooth to stick to. The epoxy would have to be tested also to see if it even sticks to the steel well however.

[Jo-JotheSoundDog]

How about using JB weld to write your initials. I keep look ing for a new way to label my tools. I tried pray painting, but then someone showed up with the same color. i tried two colors and found someone with the same scheme. i tried tape, but it just rubbed off and left the adhesive. i tried three colors and now my tools look like crap. I have replaced most, but keep them under lock and key until I can find some reliable way to identify. Engraving should be great, but it is impossible to tell if your tool is walking from across a theatre.

[ship]

Isn't that going to crap up your tool?
I agree a good visible marking for them is really needed. I used to do a blue 1/4" paint marker stripe in addition to engraving. Wears off with time and use.
I feel your pain, even with my threat of death most employees would seriously consider when swiping my tools, they still walk occasionally. Luckily, the shop when I twist my bosses arm replaces them. By the way, if a newbee shows up with your color, make them change it.

Hmm. JB Weld. Last time I used it, I was attaching some coffee cans to some very short PAR 56 track light fixtures. Worked really well. Think you would need to take off or rough up the chrome coating on most of your tools for it to stick however and that would lead to rust. Let me know how well it works. I have an emergency tube sitting around without a use I might be interested in doing something with also.

Along the same lines, you could take a blow torch to part of your tools and tin part of them. Perhaps even add some color to it. But than again that might have adverse effects on tool strength. At least you might be able to melt a part of the plastic handle that's not used with say a sodering iron or poke a hole in it as a graphic marking.

For company tools, I have been using mylor labels with weatherstrip adhesive around them, than coating them with adhesive lined heat shrink. Works for a while at least inside a bag of truss bolts at least.

For the most part however, I don't have a lot of worries at work. My tools are for the most part out of the price range of most newer employees so them using such tools would be suspect. Plus, I don't buy the normal store bought tools, for instance I use a Klien square shaft screw driver, most people don't know about using a wrench with it and even if Klien, they get the round ones. My Philips has the wire bending post on it in another instance.

[delnor]

I always keep mine in a toolbox and I keep an eye on it. I have never bothered marking my tools but I also keep a good watch on them. You just have to get in the habbit of taking somthing out and closing up ur box or at least make it seem as thought its closed so that somone has to go out of thier way to take them. Oh and as for gloves and bags check out www.setwear.com I know lots of people who swear by them, I don't personaly own anything from them but I was planning on ordering some gloves.

[Jo-JotheSoundDog]

The only way I could keep a close eye on my tools is if I carried my tool box everywhere. I generally leave them in my storage area, the booth, or my office, but even still I don't want to throw a lock on it, because that will slow me down. And 99% of the people I work with are honest and borrow a tool with every intention of returning them and since I am a year round employee with a full staff and almost no turn around I can track down something a couple days later, but still it would be nice to be able to see something and say hey are you planning on returning my meter someday soon or should I pick out the one you can buy me to replace it.

[buildintechie]

>>As for my drill, it lives in a shoulder holster with a secondary bit holder >>pouch on the strap for some common Drill Bits,

Where did you get a shoulder holster?? I'd really like to invest in one. I work housing construction as well (gonna major in construction management) and own a DeWalt 18V XRP. For those who are looking for drills...I would not reccommend this unless you are sure it's going to get alot of use and you are already very skilled in cordless drilll use. A 12v is better as a beginning cordless drill, with an equal balance of weight and power. Most of my friends dont like ym 18v becuase its too heavy...I dont mind it though. Anywhom where can I get a shoulder holster?
Thanks

[ship]

"Where did you get a shoulder holster?? DeWalt 18V XRP. ...I would not reccommend this . A 12v is better ?"

I agree on the 18v and especially for you the shoulder holster would be helpful because a belt holster would not work with a 18v very well. I like the 14.4v gun for a balance between power and battery life when on site. But for shop use of a 12v gun is the best option.

The holster is from Deluth Trading Company and it's a good quality leather. http://www.duluthtrading.com/ You will probably have to cut away a little from the bottom of the holster because it won't fit a 1/2" chuck otherwise if that's your chuck size. My 14.4v is as I said a pistol grip not a T-Handle. It's weighting is right for the holster I have and I don't need any of the other straps to make it sit right. Don't remember if there was a T-Handle version of the holster available but with most holsters there is a difference in style due to differing balance points.

Don't forget the safety lanyard - saves a lot of money when it's possible to drop them at a height.

I would also advise getting a magnetic locking bit holder. I know Black & Decker/Dewalt makes one, and there is another company that makes a similar one - something like AMEC or ILCOs in just being letters not a name. Such things are about 2" to 3" long and 1/2" in outer diameter and you push or pull on the locking ring to remove the bit depending upon the brand. This way, you can lock down the bit holder into the chuck so it won't come loose and can still with one hand remove and change bits.


I also have a 1/4" drive to 3/8" socket adaptor with a Klien quick release socket bit holder on it for use with my drill. The Klien thing grips sockets well enough that you cannot pull them off without sliding the quick release.

With these two ood way of not loosing bits when walking around the jobsite, or needing to ratchet down on them each time you change a bit.

[wemeck]

What type brand name power tools would you recommend. I have seen three shops slowly convert from makitas to dewalts. The transistion was helped by our Dewalt Super Chargers ability to handle batteries from Milwaukee, Makita, etc...

But what kind of large saws are you all using?

Currently we have a Sears craftsman radial arm that has been nothing but reliable. A Delta Rockwell Table saw that is starting to wear away, and a Makita compound miter saw. We have recently attained a 3/4 " floor stand drill press from our schools wood shop, but have not found a place for it yet.

What Brands have proven or not proven themselves?

[buildintechie]

What type brand name power tools would you recommend. I have seen three shops slowly convert from makitas to dewalts. The transistion was helped by our Dewalt Super Chargers ability to handle batteries from Milwaukee, Makita, etc...

I personally prefer Dewalt cordless drills/drivers, my family or myself own a 12v and an 18v xrp and I have gotten flawless performance for each. However, in my school tech shop we use 14.4 v and 12.v Makita cordless drills, and these work just as well. I hvae seen these wear out, but I dont know if it was because they get heavy and abusive use for several hours almost everyday (and mine is lovingly cared for).


But what kind of large saws are you all using?

We use two different large saws...we've got a delta tablesaw with an extension that allows us to rip pieces as wide as 4' 6", and I love this saw. I'd take it home with me if it fit in my car. We also use a makita 12" compound miter saw with a 2 foot slide. Also a wonderful tool, but very expensive. If you are in the market for a miter saw, and dont want to spend $500+, I would highly reccommend a delta. At work (I am a crew leader for habitat for humanity orange county, nc) we use delta 10" miter saws, they are both hardworking and dependable, and last well, not to mention inexpensive. You can get one for under $100 at your local lowes, homedepot. I think the price for a delta 10" compound miter saw (bevels and miters) is $89. A supurb price for a wonderful tool!


What Brands have proven or not proven themselves

IN short, I reccommend dewalt or makita for drills, and delta or makita for saws.
Hope this help!

[Jo-JotheSoundDog]

I am not going to even touch the cordless drill issue if you want to see my opinion on that one go to the carpentry forums and the heading cordless drills.
As for big saws I have always loved Delta, preferably the more expensive models.
As for names that have disappointed me. Mostly Master Carps and TD's that don't regularly maintain their tools. And I can name a handful, but won't. Usually any moderate priced power tool that is taken care of and loved will last and prove worth the investment.
Of the things to remember in taking care of a tool.

****Never use a power tool for something that it is not intended for****
and this includes trying to cut to hard of a wood, too big of a piece of wood. Always make sure that the saw is intended for the cutting you are doing. And make sure that the blade that is on the saw is intended for the material you are cutting.

Replace or sharpen the blade regularly.

Keep the tool clean and lubricated.

I am also a big fan of JET tools and Bosch.

[ship]

My gosh!, JoJo we are coming to a working arrangement in views. I agree with regular maintenance on your tools. As a scene shop carpenter, I used to send my cordless drill in for maintenance twice a year and service the rest of the tools once a year. I could fix many of them, but for the most part it was worth the money to have them factory maintained. On big power tools, once a year on service and once a week on cleaning and surfacing. I also sent the pneumatics in once a year for a good maintenance call. Used to use Butcher’s wax on the surfaces of the power tools, but I found “Top Coat” a spray lube and it’s by far better. Again, once a week on the most used tools and once a month that coating on things like jigsaws plentiums and router bases.

Radio Arm Saws only work well with a specifically designed Radio Arm Saw Blade or Dado blade. It’s amazing what the proper saw blade will do for the tool. Had a Craftsman Radio Arm Saw, under powered, but once I put that blade in it, it worked fine. I have never found a radio arm saw yet that works well as designed with a normal saw blade. That said, the Radio Arm Saw is tremendously useful as a tool as long as you have the proper blade in it and it’s wire roped and turn buckled and locked into the proper 90° angle. Much easier to make a cutting jig for it to cut angles than to try to move it’s angle and get it back aligned. That being an exception for the large industrial 12" models that are by nature expensive and accurate.

Besmier stop block fences for all chop and arm saws makes life easy.

As for brands, I’m sold on DeWalt cordless tools and grinders, Bosch medium routers, Roto Zips, Jigsaws, and Medium Sanders. Porter Cable Large Sanders, Random Orbital Sanders, Laminate Trimmers and large Routers. Skil Worm Drive Circular Saws. Milwaukee Sawzalls and Corded Drills. And Delta for my major power tools including drill presses and table saws. Jet being the close runner up especially with Grinders. On a grinder, get over ½ hp and 8" or at least compare actual amperage as opposed to HP because the Delta 8" suckes.

On table Saws, I have just about always used Jet or Delta. Contractor I, Contractor II or the Industrial for Delta. Doesn’t matter if you have a Uni-Fence or better yet Beismaster (sp) fence, as long as you have one or the other, your saw will work well. Sure on the lesser models, you can’t feed them as easily but they preform well easily and accurately. As long as you have a good fence and guard on them. I Like the custom set ups with the special order safety lever safety systems that gets the guard out of the way when needed. For saw blades, I like my Wizard blade for cost verses ability in cutting. But I’ll also buy a good blade (over $60.00) and have it sharpened. Right blade for the right job. “Trade a Blade carbides” are usually not bad blades you can get if you don’t mind replacing them a few times a year. It’s all in the kurf and tear out.

On chop saws, DeWalt for me is the king. Black&Decker makes the exact same model for their industrial line. They do after all own DeWalt. On other saws, they all I’m sure are fine, but I have always liked the DeWalt. Must be 12" what ever the chop saw/power miter box. 10" saws are not worth the effort. Again the proper and sharp blades for what you are doing.
I personally prefer compound miter boxes to compound sliding miter boxes that fill the gap between radio arm saws and miter boxes. I just don’t like the action of both sliding and chopping with the same tool. Have one where I currently work, it scares me. I don’t like the action. What happens if your hands are not placed right and should that blade decide to go walking up the lumber. With a chop saw, it’s downward motion only. With a radio arm saw, it’s linear motion only. With the compound miter box, it’s both that will chop off limbs.

On Drill Presses, it’s a question of how much power and gears you want and a discussion of itself. I just bought a Delta model, but there was stiff competition.

One note on the Uni-Fence or other table saw system. That side table makes a really good and accurate router table top and you get to use the Uni-Fence to guide your lumber into it.

[Jo-JotheSoundDog]

Yeah Ship it is always hard to agree on artistic issues, and from different experiences different opinions can arise. But taking care of equipment and tools is just a must.

That being said...

I just want to give a shout out for the Bosch routers. It has been a couple of years since I was active in a scene shop, but they were top notch in their price line when I was still a carp.

And just another bit of advice a saw is only as good as the blade that is in it. The same with drills and drill presses with bits. Screwguns and their bits. Routers and their bits, ....

[ship]

Bosch is the only medium size 1/2hp router I would use or own. But I'm sure DeWalt makes a good model also. It is a large question of personal experience. I for instance don't like plunge routers. I can probably count on one hand how many times I needed the plunge option, but I was always hampered by the height/lock adjustment on them and the small bases. That's the router most wood magazines recommend however. What I would say is a good Bosch medium router, and a large Porter Cable variable speed router, plus a laminate trimmer would be about all you need. With the variable speed at one point I was putting a 1.1/2" radius curve into 2" Blue Dow Board for some scenery. Very useful.

On drill bits, I'm a fan of black oxide for the bits I use most and TIN coated carbide for my good ones. Chrome just doesn't do it for me and titanium is a waste on all but a Unibit. Avoid Bullet Tipped drill bits. Hard to walk up your sizes. What ever I drill if metal, using cutting fluid is the key to keeping them sharp. That and using the proper drilling speed. Saved an empty can of Bucher's wax, cut a slot in it's top and added a 1" paint brush to it for applying oil. Never loan out the drill bits you plan to use unless you are directing how others use them. Had a really expensive 5/8" Tin coated solid carbide bit at one point. All it took was loaning it out once and that was $30.00 down the hole. Re-sharpening drill bits doesn't work well for steel cutting bits and that's my primary use for them. A good set that's locked up for the drill press, and one for the kids to play with is the best option.

[Jo-JotheSoundDog]

Bosch,however also offers a 2 HP plunge and fixed base router pack that is variable speed. It is very nice. I have just the basic 1/2 hp fixed base and I love it. I have used it many a times building flats with cutouts.

[doc1]

In reading all the good ideas on tool that you should have. A good place i have found for puches and toolbelts is Seat Wear WWW.Seatwear.com They sell many pouches that are for the demanding work of a tech. They allso sell some really good sets of gloves. I own many Seatwear products verry happy with there quality.

Another Tool that i highly recomend for the lighting or riging person i a safty cable for you tools. It can be as simple as a 1/16 black coverd aircraft cable with a lope at each end quicklings on each end. So when you are working on the grid or ladders your c wrench dosent hit the floor.

[doc1]

In reading all the good ideas on tool that you should have. A good place i have found for buying these things toolbelts and gloves is Seat Wear WWW.Seatwear.com They sell many pouches that are for the demanding work of a tech. They allso sell some really good sets of gloves. I own Seatwear products and verry happy with there quality.

Another Tool that i highly recomend for the lighting or riging person is a safty cable for your tools. It can be as simple as a 1/16 black covered aircraft cable with a lope at each end quicklinqs on each end. So when you are working on the grid or ladder your c wrench doesn't hit the deck.

[wolf825]

Another Tool that i highly recomend for the lighting or riging person is a safty cable for your tools. It can be as simple as a 1/16 black covered aircraft cable with a lope at each end quicklinqs on each end. So when you are working on the grid or ladder your c wrench doesn't hit the deck.

The deck--or worse--someones skull....

wolf

[raar]

What I find very usefull is a headlamp. The ones with led's are great. Next to it a larger torch a rechargeble mag or streamlight for looking up in rig for example.

Arjen

[drumbum]

I prefer the Dewalt screw guns. They seem to hold up very well and all the dewalt stuff takes almost all the same batteries 12 or 18 volt. The keyless chucks are a wonderful feature.

Im a fan too.

[Reggie]

Ship,
I have to disagree with you on the value of re-sharpening twist drill bits. As long as they are high speed steel and not so tiny that you can not orient them easily, it can be done by hand on a bench grinder. It is a skill that can be learned from most any machinist. Serveral jigs are available to make this job easier, as well as machines specifically dedicated to this purpose.

[DMXtools]

On sharpening drillbits, I have to side with Ship. The good TiN coated carbide bits are very difficult to sharpen (if it can be done at all - I've had no success and had to dress my wheel when I was done trying). The cheap bits that are easy to sharpen cost less than the time it would take me to sharpen them.

John

[ship]

“Ship,
I have to disagree with you on the value of re-sharpening twist drill bits. As long as they are high speed steel and not so tiny that you can not orient them easily, it can be done by hand on a bench grinder. It is a skill that can be learned from most any machinist. Serveral jigs are available to make this job easier, as well as machines specifically dedicated to this purpose.” - Reggie

Actually, I’m of the opinion that for wood a resharpened small bit would work just fine as would chrome ones that work better with wood. Given that it very much depends upon the grinder wheel. Check with your machinests that resharpen the bits to see what type of wheel works best, not the normal one - I expect either a fine white or pink that’s not for normal use. If not wet wheel. Not something Home Depot sells nor Dad would have avaialble. I have a really cool fiber wheel, it would probably do the task but why bother?

To each his own. Sharpening for other than metals applications can be cost effective if it’s a question of labor in restocking them or shipping. If it works for you, great - I long for the debate not to mention the challenge to try sharpening afresh. I hate throwing out drill bits just as much as the next person. Let’s spar. That is best how you, I and the rest learn.

Such sharpening centers are on the market and will work in general for bits used in wood. Ever watch an infomercial on them? Yea they say they work on everything including concrete but use of said drill bits 8 hours a day a week straight would be far different in success.

In what I learned over the years and at a Union scene shop’s metals area in the formative years is that it’s both more work than it’s worth to try and save a metal cutting drill bit once dull, and unless you can re-create the surface treatment to the tip as per the original coating, it’s not going to stay sharp long. Black Oxide coated, TiCN and TiALN coated drill bits are my normal drill bits used. You will note that it is a coating on the high speed steel drill bit under it. Kind of like adding oil or wax to your blade to lubricate or cool it. Once it’s gone by sharpening there is no way to re-apply it. Plus if your speeds and cooling are not just right, the temper will be off and such a drill bit that’s re-sharpened can shatter like a Menards special when it hits a “small bullet - big sky” - Murphy’s Law drywall screw in the lumber. Machinists as you say might resharpen bits as they want, I have a copy of Macheriey’s Handbook #26 myself that I’m sure tells me how to do so. The question still is what’s more cost effective, resharpening more normal drill bits that can be sharpened or perhaps some tin coated drill bits that will stay sharp longer in the more common sizes than just replacing them? Ever notice the presence of multiple drill bit indexes in machinists shops? How many bits do they stock per size? Bit gets abused, you replace it with another of a similar size. My opinion at least given I stock multiple sizes of drill bits for metals use also like them. My bosses don’t grumble about a few bits per month ranging from under a buck to upwards of $30.00 each. Part of doing business. They respect that I know when it’s more cost effective to replace the things - even Titanium step bits, over me trying to sharpen them as a cost of doing business and refined metal working.

Black Oxide for most drill bits and Tin coated for the others that will get more use such as 1/8". After that, hope you don’t have to work with Stainless Steel as it’s going to destroy even the most expensive of bits no matter what oil or other methods you use. On metals, provide the right type and quantity of oil to the surface and you don’t need to sharpen the bit when used at the right speed. I have some drill bits that are older than some forum members no doubt, and others that I constantly replace. Depends upon the size and use such as removing rivets, plus how they are taken care of by the user. Oiled once per hole, verses never - oil what’s that much less grade and type. For wood, sharpen away, for metal, try it a few times verses just buying new when your time is at a premium. Spend a half hour on fixing a drill bit that’s not going to last as long as a new one and you lost the company money. My opinion so far stands, convince me.

[Reggie]

Ship,
I could use the workout, but all hell is braking loose at work, so I'll make this initial reply brief. Sharpening a drill bit takes very little time, using a bench grider, even when not using a jig. The most efficient method would be to do an entire box, maybe a hundred rapid fire fashion, one right after the other. As for suitable candidates, yes a titanium coated high-speed bit would only be a high speed bit after re-sharpening, but if it has not been overheated, why not salvage it. You are talking about less then a minute, once you get you hands and body properly oriented. High-speed steel bits would be sharpened on an aluminum oxide wheel, typically found on "Dad's" bench grinder, carbide bits require a softer abrasive wheel (can't remember the type). I probable would not bother to try and resharpen a masonry bit, in a hammer drill or an electro pneumatic, the carbide insert is usually pretty well destroyed by the time the bit is retired from use. In a machine shop, you would pass your dull tooling back into the "tool crib" for inspection and re-sharpening when done or when a replacement is required.
Yes, it is a time saver and a an absolute necessity to have spares in the commonly used sizes.

Round #3 later, perhaps?

[Reggie]

Ship,
I could use the workout, but all hell is braking loose at work, so I'll make this initial reply brief. Sharpening a drill bit takes very little time, using a bench grider, even when not using a jig. The most efficient method would be to do an entire box, maybe a hundred rapid fire fashion, one right after the other. As for suitable candidates, yes a titanium coated high-speed bit would only be a high speed bit after re-sharpening, but if it has not been overheated, why not salvage it. You are talking about less then a minute, once you get you hands and body properly oriented. High-speed steel bits would be sharpened on an aluminum oxide wheel, typically found on "Dad's" bench grinder, carbide bits require a softer abrasive wheel (can't remember the type). I probably would not bother to try and resharpen a masonry bit. In a hammer drill or an electro pneumatic, the carbide insert is usually pretty well destroyed by the time the bit is retired from use. In a machine shop, you would pass your dull tooling back into the "tool crib" for inspection and re-sharpening when done or when a replacement is required.
Yes, it is a time saver and a an absolute necessity to have spares in the commonly used sizes.

Round #3 later, perhaps?

[Mayhem]

Here is one simple rule that I learned long ago - tools are only expensive if you lose them!

I actually use Snap-On or Blue-Point tools where ever possible and you may as well buy 1000V rated screwdrivers. Especially those of you who like to tinker with valve amps.

A good set of side cutters, pliers, vice-grips, 6" and 8" adjustable wrenches and a sharp knife are also essential items, as is a permanent marking pen and several rolls of electrical and gaffa tape. (remember that gaffa tape is like the force - it has a light side, a dark side and it holds the universe together!).

You may wish to add a multimeter, 3/8" drive socket set, gas soldering iron, forceps and scissors as you build up your tool box.

While doing a google search to find a specific fraction size for Black & Decker bullet bits, a blurb contained in one of the results caught my attention. The phrase that caught my eye was "stay away from bullet bits". I wondered what technical gem I would uncover that I had overlooked these last several years of use of these bits? Intrigued, I clicked onto this site to see what shortcoming of bullet design technology that I didn't get. I was struck by the irony that my search for a specfic fraction of a drill bit was apparently the sole reason listed by you for exclusion of it's use, Specifically "it's tough to step up in size" forgive me if I didn't quote you precisley, I going from memory. For those who have not used these bits please consider the following; unlike conventional twist bits, coated or otherwise the bullet design features a multi-faceted center point with a negative angle grind providing accurate dead on penetration. In short where you put it is where it goes. This stands in stark contrast to it's twist brother whose long angle of grind and twin cutting surfaces invite walking off the mark regardless of rotation speed, feed pressure or choice of lubricant. Upon penetration the secondary benefit of the bullet is that if you have set your depth stop, you can then flip the piece your working on over and use that very same hole you've created as a pilot and continue boring from that side if you so desire. Attempting that with a conventional bit is a frustrating experience. Particularly in sheet metal regardless of whether it's supported or not, feed pressure will often times dimple the opposite side. Continuing with the drilling, the primary cutters (finish diameter) make contact. Once again another unique property comes into play, a "Brad edge", a page taken from woodworking technology. The primary function of this edge is to cut the initial shoulder of the finish diameter ensuring a nice round hole with only a trace amount of burr to clean up. No matter what your skill level these two properties are often tough to achieve with a twist bit. If you set your depth stop properly your final penetration will actually leave a tiny cap of metal stil stuck to the bullet and edges of the bit shoulders. I continue to be amazed at the way it cuts into 1/2" steel the same way my "Freud forstner bits" cut through Black Walnut. Conventional twist bits as well as unibits are also a part of my arsenal, I have no predjudiced or preference for any technology eccept for whatever will do the job. I invite those who haven't tried a bullet, to give one a spin, you'll get nearly the same results as a stepped bit at a fraction of the cost. There were some additional generic comments that caught my eye ie. good tablesaw blades cost $60 or more, try Freud's LU84M, $45.00 retail. Perhaps I'll come back some time and expound on saw blade properties, but for now I off to by a fractional bullet bit from a local supplier.

[ship]

I like a debate and thank you for posting this because your points are important to all in balancing the viewpoints than with the information posted letting everyone make a fair choice. Welcome to the forum, my response is in debate and discussion for the good of all interested and to learn more from the point counterpoint.

Bullet bits are fine for wood and plastic, possibly even superior for it. I don’t drill much wood or plastic anymore, it’s aluminum, steel, brass, bronze and stainless in all types of hard nesses for me now so a more balanced use drill bit, especially one with superior coatings such as TiCN or TiALN work better on the more common sizes than also last much longer in steel and have a chance with stainless steel or tool steel. Just yesterday I was cutting and drilling some 1/4"x2" mild steel plates to mount a mirror ball motor off an I-Beam. The 48" mirror ball weighs 120# so not only did it require sizable materials but accuracy in drilling for it’s mounts. This required multiple ½" holes thru a double thickness of plate and tap drill bits for bolting the plates together. For a homeowner like a school, that is not doing much refined work or does not have the time to properly drill the hole with pilot holes, correct speed and lubricant so as to preserve bit life, the bullet tip might be useful. It takes some training to learn proper drill speeds, oil etc. Without that training even expensive drill bits bite the dust. But for anything major, that bullet tip with it’s chrome finish would not last long. This is my opinion, you speak well of your use and knowledge on the subject and would intend not to infer anything different, this is still my opinion and training not a judgement.

Depends upon the material you are cutting and who is cutting it. I don’t know about you but I prefer to use a center punch to mark my hole while I’m laying it out, than step or walk up the bits in size if not using a TiCN (titanium coated) Uni-bit step bit for anything 1/8" or less in thickness. It also depends upon the cutting angle of the drill bit point angle 118° or 135° as to how clean of a cut verses how much walking it can do, plus the proper speed. With some practice, stepping up your drill bit can be about as fast as sitting around heating up the single drill bit as it cuts, but less heat means longer life no matter what the finish or brand. Your point is correct that the bullet tip is possibly better than a solid split bit if it’s the only drill bit used, but drilling with a single twist bit is not that smart to do often anyway in metal. Bit walking... not with a center punch much less walking/stepping up your drill bit sizes and a 135° tip. They will walk more commonly if the above is not followed as you state - perhaps more than the bullet tip.

The problem I mainly cite with such bullet bits is that you can not use them for stepping up the hole in size. Let’s say you want to drill a ½" dia. Hole in 1/4" plate mild steel. Very common in the lighting industry that size for structures and clamps. With a bullet bit you would have to either use that ½" bit for the only bit which would more quickly dull it, or figure out what size the center point is drilling at so you can use that size bit or one smaller first. That means two bits used. Now granted, with stepping up split tip drill bits, you would have to use at least three sizes of drill bit to get the job done, but it’s a lot easier to drill say a 3/16" hole first, than a 5/16" hole than the final ½" hole than a single ½" hole with a bullet point bit or say a 3/16" than the ½" bit. I would normally go with four bits, but it all depends upon the hardness of the materials. You really don’t have that option with a bullet tip bit.

Let’s say your hole is 3/8" and you discover you need it to be 13/32". Much less 25/64" which would probably be hard to find in the home center/local supplier along with number and letter sizes where appropriate such as for a tap and die set or specific hole size. Bullet bits are not very good at stepping up holes due to the flat or negative angle of their secondary cutting surface and now due to a lack of center positioning, it won’t center too well without something for the point to center on. In other words, one hole and don’t try to improve upon it in going slightly larger unless you have more normal drill bits also in stock. You cannot accurately use a bullet bit to make a already 3/8" hole into a 13/32" hole, much less to make a 3/8" hole into a ½" hole. Can’t use it to make a 10-32 mounting bolt for a 3" Fresnel C-Clamp into a 1/4" mounting bolt hole given you could find a #7 sized Bullet bit for the 1/4-20 tap.

In addition to this drill at an angle and the stepping bullet bit is also much more likely to walk. With a normal bit you start the hole dead on than once started you can move the bit to the desired angle or block something up against the surface to balance the bit at an angle. This would not work to well with a bullet bit because of the interrupted tip.

I would also cite that the standard bullet tip is available in chrome, black oxide if you can find it from Black & Decker for the “premium bits” and perhaps titanium coatings if available though neither are listed on the website, just chrome. Who do you get such even TiN coated bits from given production drilling where you need say 60 or 100 holes in a hard surface without replacing bits? Much less Cobalt and solid carbide bits are not available for special purposes such as drilling pipe - something we don’t do much of in the theater. Schedule 40 black water pipe tears up normal drill bits but I admit I have not tried it with a Bullet bit.

I know I had a pamphlet on the Bullet point somewhere but could not find it to tell me what types of bit other than Black Oxide I believe in a economy off shore brand and most commonly chrome coated were available. The website was not of much use either on this type and coating question. Must be that one drill bit is as good as any other and last just as long in all materials and applications. It would seem that no major suppliers such as J&L, McMaster Carr, Grainger, or Fastenal sell the bullet tip bit either for ease in getting them. Funny, unless I go to a home center, I just can’t find the Bullet bit. That takes time, faxing in an order for same day delivery is much quicker. You would think other suppliers such as industrial suppliers and metal working suppliers will have caught on to the Bullet Bit’s usefulness. If that home center is out of stock... plus the extra prices, what do you do drive around to find more? Now a Bullet Bit proper might live up to more abuse than a standard home center twist bit, bought one at 5/16" once a few months ago, I believe Tool Shop was the brand. Funny, I never had a drill bit shatter before. J&L frequently puts a 64 piece TiCN bit set with index on sale for $30.00. Decent quality 135° plus the index. Might try shopping there than comparing for a general purpose drill bit.

While black oxide and chrome can be fairly durable on common materials if the proper oil is used and used at the proper speed, they will wear out in mild to hard steel plate unless stepped up so the single individual bit does not get as warm and there is less effort to the motor - no matter what the tip type. What is the proper drill speed given two drill sizes in one bit, do you need to slow down the drill bit once you get to the second cutting surface or are you to run the primary cutting edge at a faster than optimum speed? On small drill sizes it won’t matter much but once you get past 1/4" heat is going to become a factor.


As Black & Decker says about the bit, [...eliminating waking which is common to “ordinary” drill bits. (Meaning 118° chrome bits.) Bullet drill bits drill up to four times faster and last seven times longer than “conventional” drill bits. (Or what specific type and size of drill bit was that rating in reference to? A 3/32" drill bit will drill plenty fast.)

These three new bullet sets meet the needs of “serious do-it-yourselfers” as well as “home owners” for all types of projects,]

While the diagram on http://www.blackanddecker.com/Produc...ulletDrillBits is true to some degree - at least as exaggerated for thin materials, the diagram would not look anything like it were the plate thicker, angle of tip different or speed increased. For thinner materials you are better off using a Unibit anyway.

As I said, I could not find the Bullet pamphlet, I did find one for the Vermont American Sidewinder Drill bit. It says it cuts three times faster than standard jobber drill bits. I assume in their ratings that a standard jobber bit is what Black & Decker calls a conventional drill bit, though I can find a jobber bit in the catalog. Also I assume that the pilot point bit cited is a bullet point. Anyway, Vermont American says a standard drill bit takes 51.7 seconds to drill 25 holes thru 1/4" 1018 carbon steel w/o lubricant. The pilot point 16.3 seconds and the Sidewinder 14.8 seconds. That’s at lest partial data given they did not cite the dia. of the drill bit, rather than here say without any data to back it up.

In ½" 1018 carbon steel, again without lubricant, the standard drill bit lasts 310 holes, the pilot point 29 holes, and the sidewinder 953 holes. There is also data on what they say is 50% less drilling pressure to penetrate the work piece and showing without any specifications it’s less pressure than the pilot point. Again, vendors will say what they want from we are the #1 car dealer to 7 times longer life but not really be specific about the testing to achieve that figure.

Sidewinder bits also are said to be self centering given a 135° tip, and are available in addition to chrome, in cobalt, titanium and their normal surface treatment what ever that is. Non walking it would seem is a common statement.

In other words, everybody has a claim, be it side winders lasting 3 times longer than normal, titanium 6 times longer etc. Again the Vermont American line is for DIY’er’s or like with the bullet not designed to be used all day long almost every day of the week. Industrial drill bits verses home owner drill bits, there is a difference.

I tend to believe un-biased info such as out of McMaster Carr where it’s not a cut sheet from one brand stating how much greater their product is, rather it’s a description of surface treatments, finish types etc. and what each one is going to do for a specific application and no brand names cited. Specific bits for specific purposes.

“Coatings extend drill life by as much as 300% to 800% compared to uncoated tools.” I can about attest to that, depends upon the tip, etc. Drill a few steel rivets out with a jobber verses a bullet tip verses a TiCN tip and see which will last longer and will be easier to use.

As for flipping the material over, I would think you can do so at any point in having drilled your pilot hole as normal in using twist bits. Note also that if you set your depth stop properly, you can flip the material over and continue boring from the other side. With a pilot hole, it’s less frustrating because the smaller drill bit does not need to be depth stopped. If with the bullet tip, that depth stop is not correct, or on the second piece of material cut with the depth stop, there is any metal shavings under the material that depth setting now will allow too deep of a cut given the size of the center drill and you will not be able to use it to guide the drill bit from the opposing side without a sloppy cut. So setting depth cuts is frustrating in general but especially with a bullet tip. In the case that you have to flip your material over, than it’s easier without the bullet tip, instead just use a pilot hole. Not that you normally would need to, what you don’t counter sink your hole’s sharp edges? Note: attempting to do a depth cut on unsupported material is just as difficult no matter what drill bit you are attempting to use. For a centering hole it’s easier to use a smaller sized pilot hole bit.



“A page taken from woodworking technology.” What is this a commercial or did you forget to cite a source? That’s fine just let us know we have a vendor rep on line instead of a “guest” if this is the case. All are welcome as long as it’s on a level playing field. Freud is a good brand of forstner bit, I stock the titanium version of them. Costs more but stays sharper longer. Of note however on a forstner bit is that there is usually a lot more tear out damage from too much pressure at the end of the cut when it’s not supported. In other words on a forstner bit if not supported it can rip chunks out of the back surface. Are we to infer that a bullet bit is or is not like a forstner bit when working unsupported on that tin plate? Not to mention they don’t work very well either in enlarging holes.

Good debate, neither of us will be absolutely right either because its’ subjective and personal opinion for much of the debate. Still interesting to spar with someone taking the time to explain his viewpoint and state it so well. I look forward to your saw blade descriptions and further info on drill bits.

Ship... I noticed that you had some rather uncommon tools listed.. like the 7" Wonder Bar II...

Would you wouldn't mind editing your post to include links to descriptions of the tools... because, until I looked it up.. I had not idea what a wonder bar was...

[cruiser]

Wonder Bar can be found at: www.barbizon.com =)

[miniwyo]

In our shop We use Makita Drills and i have a holster One that my dad used to use for a pistol but started to wear out. After some modifications i can put drills of all sizes in it as well as driving bits and screws in the loops where the bullets go. I have also added some pouches to it. We never resharpen bits we use them until they break because they are so dull. We use a Craftsman tablesaw and it is a Piece of $%!# we use a Dewalt compound mitersaw and a Dewalt Cutoff saw for when we us metal as well as our Hobart Wire Feed Welder. Our Dewalt Industrial Radial Arm Saw is old but in good condition even though it is usually buried by scrap wood and thins as we dont really use it much. On marking your tools DONT FORGET TO MARK YOUR SHARPIES AS WELL!!!! they always seem to runoff on me. I have a 35' wideboy tapemeasure that has the increments on it (very handy) and it never leaves my and or my belt, everyone knows this under threat of being shot in the face with a bazooka. We always have a wish list of what tools we want for our shop and we get usually some just so we can afford emergency things like replacing tools that break suddenly. But hpofully this semester we will get a new stationary aircompressor system as well as a dust collection system and new work benches.

RJ
Rock Springs Wy.