Flats storage

[carpenter]

I'm trying to construct a vertical storage system for flats. The entire 'system' will be approximately 8'6" high, 4' deep, and 10' wide. How do I divide the spaces into 12" openings? How do I support the whole? Drama dept wants a solid top to enable storage of lightweight props above the flats. We wanted to use 3/8" x 4' x 8' plywood for the dividers and for support, but it warps too badly. Has anyone else dealt with this issue? Any ideas?

[curtg]

Don't bother with plywood dividers. They aren't worth the cost. Use framing lumber (i.e., 2X4s) and leave it exposed. All you need are studs to lean the flats against at two points. I would sheath the back, the top, and the bottom (if you cannot fasten the studs to the floor). I would use gussets to join the divider frames.

Cumulatively you will be dealing with a lot weight. Additionally, I would build the front higher so you could sheath it to stiffen the structure. The structural battle is against the thing wracking. Essentially, you are constructing a big box and then putting dividers in it.

The open framing allows you to work your way into the storage closet if a flat gets snagged etc.

How much space do you have? Please include ceiling height. And, will it be against a wall or in the center of the room? Have you taken future needs into account. These closets work best when you have space to work.

I would be happy to help out with some drawings.

[Chris Chapman]

Go one better than wood. Use schedule 40 pipe with threaded ends. Flanges with anchors into the walls and floor. Your load rating will go up substantially. Connect them with Elbow and T joints so they form a F shape. Decking can go on the top or mid livel if need be for other storage. I'm putting together a design for my maintenance department to install this summer for flats, both muslin and hollywoods.

The steel cost might be a tad more expensive, but in the long run it'll be stronger.

-Chris Chapman
TD, Greenville Performing Arts Center
Greenville, MI

[icewolf08]

Or if you are really gung-ho you could weld the structure together and use a box tube or some other steel. We have a bunch of great flat and sheet good storage racks for our shop. Some are vertical, some horizontal, and some even on wheels. This techniques requires someone who is good at welding, but it will give you a nice strong structure.

[jwl868]

Originally Posted by Chris Chapman

Go one better than wood. Use schedule 40 pipe with threaded ends.

Just curious, but what diameter pipe?

Any reason for the threaded ends instead of solvent weld socket fittings? (plus threaded schedule 40 PVC pipe isn't that common, not to mention having to cut the threads on the shorter pieces. But my experience with piping is for its use with fluids.)


Joe

[derekleffew]

Chris Chapman was talking about Schedule 40 steel pipe, 1.5" I.D. If you don't have access to a pipe threader, use Kee Klamps for the fittings. What you're contemplating is often referred to as a "scene dock" in textbooks.

12" openings are rather narrow, could only get 4 or 5 flats in that space comfortably. I'd put dividers every 3'-4'. Make the frames 4'-6" deep. Remember with flats: "back to back, face to face".

Also, you say height is 8'-6", so I'm guessing you're planning on storing 4'x8' flats, (could also be a good place to store sheet goods). But the height should be just greater than the length of the diagonal of a 4'x8'. (8'-11 11/32", call it 9'-0" interior dimension). This allows one to "pivot" out the stock rather than slide it.

[rosabelle334]

=/ I don't think I can help you there, we just lean our flats against the walls. Its actaully so much easier than having them stored away somewhere. Not as professional though, and they can be damaged easier...

[gafftaper]

I've seen a pretty cool rack built from Unistrut. Very strong. Not too expensive. No need to weld.

[curtg]

Steel is a better way to go. If you are on a budget, good old studs will get the job done. If you are building against a wall, and can attach flanges to the floor and wall, you could use black pipe for your 'divider/supports'. You could purchases the parts and not have to cut anything. Just screw the parts together. I would get 1.5" pipe. Picture and upside down "L". The flat closet I made had staggered depths, so there were specific sections for each width of flat. This approach rules out storage above the closet, which is a good idea.

I also agree one foot is too narrow, I recommend two feet. The trick is keeping the flats vertical. The more they can lean the more force on the support the will exert. One flat is no problem, ten flats are quite heavy.

[jwl868]

Originally Posted by derekleffew

Chris Chapman was talking about Schedule 40 steel pipe, 1.5" I.D.

Oh, that's very different. Never Mind.



Joe (that's "l" for Litella)