Could send back and say "this is to be my gear not your's and you had at best remove your labels from it without damaging the cable or no sale." One would assume the sales person would get the tech staff removing their labels most ricky tic tic without damaging the cable.
Sorry, but I can't imagine selling gear with one's label still on it. This much less if such lack of care was taken in selling the gear, was it even working condition when sent out? They test it? Ah' standards in the industry very a bit.
Depending on who you talk to in my department about removing a label from cable for resale - hopefully it's not glued to the cable in being a little more difficult, I and some prefer a Specilized Products offered juce harp like cable jacket slitter knife. Others less experienced prefer the Stanley hook knife utility knife blade for removing an old label without damaging the cable. Concept with both being you cut and roll/ride along along the surface to be protected instead of just slitting along it at questionable depth.
In general for cable, it's normally heat shrink and if thick it will have been a say 3:1 or 4:1 heat shrink ratio. The larger the starting dia., the larger the shrunk thickness after shrunk - that material has to go somewhere in in some cases getting like 1/16" thick.
Imagine if you will a say 20mm heat shrink tubing that is large enough with some effort to fit over the plug, but at say expensive 4:1 ratio shrinks down to a 5mm cable size once it clears the plug. Normally it would only be 3:1 shrink ratio or even more normal to the market yet 2:1 shrink ratio which one in shrink ratios and materials making up that heat shrink would be using Polyolefin, one should be aware of other types. Even got some 63mm stuff on the market that will clear a 19-pin Socapex plug and still shrink down to a 1" Soco cable size. Don't quite shrink down to a 12/14 7/8" cable size but with some work, works well for the male end while the 53mm stuff works well for the female end. Granted the larger the shrink ratio and or type of material used in not being PVC that yellows and cracks with age or UV, the more expensive it is up to like $10.00 per foot for the largest sizes. Still constantly impressive that something that's like 4" wide while flat on a spool would shrink down to 1" round. This and proper neopreme adhesive helps lots.
After the clear heat shrink - I put it over every cable as printed labels allow for the ink to wear off short of protection, all a question of some piece of photo copy paper taped or glued to the cable, sticker on it, bar code on it, or heat shrink color code and perhaps printed label? This in addition to other labels and or color codes. Got P-Touch labels applied to heat shrink labels, got that with electrictical tape stripes along the side of the printed colored heat shrink all with glue and clear heat shrink over. One verses two stripes matters etc. This and above and beyond just a photo copy label under heat shrink.
On the other hand as with the P-Touch label maker above, it ain't just 9mm labels they can print. A world of bar code and other labels out there in printer machines one can figure out on a PC than print out with extra clear leader for the label protecting the writing that will work adiquadately for marking a cable - barcode or not on that label. Much of our cable these days has the at times as much time spent in labeling the cable color code tape or heat shrink with labels applied to it or not with clear and glued on heat shrink above it as 4" seperated barcode lable with the same info and clear tape leader on it also on the cable - though I fight the barcoding of cable constantly.
Lots of ways to mark a cable much less a fixture.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jmac
No- and I'm not sure I can get them off w/o damaging the cables. I have some DMX and scroller P&D cables with what seems to be a thick and pretty hard clear tubing protecting their label. Is this a heat shrink tube; are they big enough to slip over the end connector, before shrinking? The connectors have different color rubber bands for DMX and P&D, and different color electrical tape for the different lengths, which seem to work well.
Other items include scrollers, power supplies, I-Cues, and a couple S4's and extra lens tubes, color frames, etc.
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