Relamping a LEKO 2240, 6x9

[taneglaus]

Hi, I'm new to ControlBooth. I've recently taken a position as the Technical Director for the High Valley Arts Foundation in Midway, Utah. We currently don't have a home theater so we use several venues in the community.

We are producing "The Sound of Music" at the Zermatt resort which is an exclusive 5star Swiss theme resort in the area. They a hillside in back where we will put on the show. We are building the stage and actually bringing power to the site. I hope we will have 2x 240v 60amp circuits. With 120amps I hope we will be able to effectively light the venue.

I have a problem I'm trying to solve. The foundation has a bunch of old LEKO 40, 2240 fixtures. I'm trying to remove the lamp housing to check the lamp but am not able to pull the lamp holder out. It appears as though the set screw that holds the lamp holder tight is hitting the outer ring that the holder slides in... anyone have an idea of how to get around this? Thanks.

[derekleffew]

See this thread: http://www.controlbooth.com/forums/l...rand-leko.html, post#9 and beyond. Twist the vertical handle of the lamp cap firmly approximately 1/8 turn counter-clockwise, and the burner assembly will then pull straight out. No loosening of any knobs is required.

[DaveySimps]

Welcome to CB! Derek gave you some great advice so far. I am going to move your thread to the Lighting Forum so it is in the proper place. Not all members regularly read the New Member Board.

Glad to have you here. Enjoy CB!

~Dave

[icewolf08]

Here is another welcome to CB. i don't really have much insight to offer you on this one, but as a fellow Utahn, I figured I would say hi.

[taneglaus]

What a PAIN!!! Following the link above I tried twisting the housing counter-clockwise...I used much force and finally it popped and the housing came out...

Now getting it back in. I haven't figured this out yet. There is a thumb screw that holds the housing tight. it screws in to a little threaded shim like aluminum key that is loose in a slot. When the housing comes out, the al key thing falls out. So, to put the housing back in, all I can figure is to place the al key in its slot and try to force it back in...but the key has a ridge around the threaded hole and that ridge gets caught on the outer shell ring...arggg!!!

I'm thinking I could grind the ridge off of the key...
When the lamp housing is in the outer shell ring, without the ridge, the housing could slide around the outer shell, however if I have the thumb screw tight, I can't see why there would be a problem?

I've been searching the Strand Lighting - A Philips Group Brand web site but it doesn't have any documentation on the 2220, 2230, 2240 LEKP's.

Does anyone have, or know where I can find documentation on the Strand Leko 2220, 2230, and 2240 fixtures?

Thanks.

[taneglaus]

It seems as though the easiest way to re-lamp these is to open the can, there are 3 small screws holding the reflector and top hat...removing 2 of these screws and loosing the other will allow the removal of the top hat and reflector making the lamp easily accessible. This is such a pain to do and it may require taking the fixture off of the pipe or mount.

We also have some Altman fixtures which are much more easy to re-lamp.

[derekleffew]

taneglaus, replacing the lamp by removing the reflector should not be necessary. No offense intended, but you're doing something wrong.

Originally Posted by taneglaus

...I'm thinking I could grind the ridge off of the key...

Do not take a grinder to any parts of this fixture. The ridge is there to keep the "key" in the slot.

Here's another thread: http://www.controlbooth.com/forums/l...and-lekos.html.

See attached pictures.
Picture 1 shows the lamp cap in its normal, locked position.
Picture 2 shows the cap rotated 45° CCW, ready to be removed. A good deal of force is required, and it's scary the first time.
Picture 3 shows the outside, looking at the tri-wing knob.
Picture 4 shows the aluminum "key" sitting on top of the teflonized plastic "washer" to aid in sliding.

It is not necessary or desirable to ever remove the tri-wing knob from the aluminum key. Slightly loosening the knob allows the lamp to move in and out of the reflector (peak-cosine adjustment), before it is tightened again. For flattest field, the lamp cap usually sits proud of its surrounding cylinder approx. 1/8". A #2 Phillips Head screwdriver, inserted in the hole in the center of the lamp cap handle, allows for up/down/L/R centering of the lamp.

I don't have cut sheets, and can't seem to lay my hands on my copy of Lights! at the moment. As replacement parts for this line are virtually non-existent, your only alternative is to cannibalize your existing stock, and replace the whole lot as soon as practical. I'd take the Altman 360Q over this line of fixtures any day. Be careful, as the shutters have a tendency to fall out.

Hope this helps.

[waynehoskins]

It's just a bayonet quick cap thing. Leave the setscrews alone and just turn it left to open it; leave the setscrews alone and push it in and turn it right to put it back in. That allows you to keep your bench focus while relamping, and also making it not a pain to bench. That said, it's not my favorite cap at all.

[taneglaus]

Thank You! Thank You! Thank You!

Looking at your images made it all come together. I left the thumb screw tight...grabbed the handle on the lamp housing and twisted it left, or counter-clockwise...scrape...bang! and the housing was loose. The al key/thumb screw is on a 'spring' plate which compresses when twisting the housing.

All fixtures I've worked with before have a thumb screw which you loosen to remove the lamp housing, so I assumed (and you know what happens when you do that...) that the tri-wing thumb screw had to be removed to remove the lamp housing...and so my focusing on the thumb screw. The thumb screw is in fact part of the lamp centering and should not be adjusted.

The thread where this was discussed before noted to twist the housing...which I tried but to the right...wrong way. On the outer ring there is an image which suggests twisting the lamp housing to the right...but now I realize that indicates rotating to lock the housing in place...NOT to remove it. The image looks like "I---->" where the "I" or line shows the alignment of the lamp housing when inserting it in to the outer ring. And the end of the arrow is where the handle will be when locked in place. The image seems to be counter-intuitive. It is for putting it together...not taking it apart.

Thank you so much for your help. Again, the value of a professional forum is evident.

[waynehoskins]

Originally Posted by taneglaus

All fixtures I've worked with before have a thumb screw which you loosen to remove the lamp housing, so I assumed (and you know what happens when you do that...) that the tri-wing thumb screw had to be removed to remove the lamp housing...and so my focusing on the thumb screw. The thumb screw is in fact part of the lamp centering and should not be adjusted.

Took me about a full hour to figure how to get the blinking thing apart the first time. Lots of swearing and asking it "why will you not open?".