Moving lights running 110?

[LionJ5]

This is my first week at my new job. I am the Lighting Director at a local multipurpose theatre. They have 3 Martin MAC 550's and 2 Robe 575 Spot XT's as far as moving lights. My first issue is that they have them all plugged in 110 edison-type outlets. Isn't there some type of junction box that I can run them to and connect that box to our 100A company power which is 3phase, 208v. My goal is running them on 208v. Any input would be appreciated.

[epimetheus]

Is there something wrong with how they are powered now? Are they not functioning correctly, tripping breakers, etc? My church has 2 Mac 500's and 4 Mega-lite Axis 500's that run on 110 with no problems. You can easily run 2 of these fixtures on a 15A circuit, maybe 3 on a 20A (probably not wise though). You might have problems if you strike the lamps at the same time.

Not to be snarky here, but if you have to ask how, maybe you should defer to a licensed electrician.

[Esoteric]

Yeah, I would never do more than 2-fer moving lights (I don't even recommend it then).

Mike

[epimetheus]

Originally Posted by Esoteric

Yeah, I would never do more than 2-fer moving lights (I don't even recommend it then).

Mike

I completely agree. I would prefer each mover to have it's own non-dim, but it doesn't always work out that way.

[icewolf08]

Originally Posted by LionJ5

This is my first week at my new job. I am the Lighting Director at a local multipurpose theatre. They have 3 Martin MAC 550's and 2 Robe 575 Spot XT's as far as moving lights. My first issue is that they have them all plugged in 110 edison-type outlets. Isn't there some type of junction box that I can run them to and connect that box to our 100A company power which is 3phase, 208v. My goal is running them on 208v. Any input would be appreciated.

You could acquire a listed/rated power distro panel that could be connected to the company switch. However, I fail to see the issue with the current setup. I personally would rather power my moving fixtures for the closes available power rather than home-running all the power to a PD. I accomplish this with relay modules for my dimmer rack so that I can turn any circuit into a real non-dim.

With the fixtures you listed, there probably wouldn't be any discernible difference in operation or output by running them on 208V power. All of the guts of the fixture operate at the same voltage no matter what. Seems like you would be better served spending your money on other things rather than a new distro and new cable.

[LionJ5]

The problem is that theyve had one fry already and it was because there were other devices plugged in those 20A circuits. I was told by a Martin rep that the majority of problems they have with these lights are those that are run on 110v. I just want them to be plugged into some type of junction box but can't find one anywhere. Any reccomendations?

[len]

Check the manuals. Some fixtures can be run either 208 or 110. 50 or 60 Hz.

HOWEVER, HOWEVER, HOWEVER, HOWEVER

Most fixtures DO NOT auto-sense the voltage input. With some fixtues (some Clay Paky IIRC) you can take the cover off the base and set voltage. Others must be factory pre-set and cannot be changed. Some will auto-sense and calibrate based on the voltage they "see." The important thing is to make sure you know which are which.

[Footer]

Originally Posted by LionJ5

The problem is that theyve had one fry already and it was because there were other devices plugged in those 20A circuits. I was told by a Martin rep that the majority of problems they have with these lights are those that are run on 110v. I just want them to be plugged into some type of junction box but can't find one anywhere. Any reccomendations?

.....its more then just a junction box....

First, is your company switch an actual company switch or is it a disconnect? If it does not have camlock connectors on it, its a disconnect. If you are installing this thing to use permanently, then you will want to get a company switch put in if you don't have one already.

TMB makes great distros. So do many other lighting companies. The thing about distros is no one makes then that just come off the line because everyone wants something different. Every distro is custom made. You can get them however you want. You can spec. how many 120v circuits, 208v circuits, 3 phase 208v circuits, if you want an integrated motor controller, dimmers built in, data distribution, patch panels..... the list goes on.

My advice to you though, if you are set on the 208 thing, get an electrician to come out and open a panel out and install 4 or 6 circuits at 208. That way its tied into the building and you don't have a seperate piece of gear taking up wingspace. It will probably also save you 5-10k. Keep in mind also your going to have to buy all new cable and new connectors as well.

[JChenault]

Originally Posted by LionJ5

The problem is that theyve had one fry already and it was because there were other devices plugged in those 20A circuits. I was told by a Martin rep that the majority of problems they have with these lights are those that are run on 110v. I just want them to be plugged into some type of junction box but can't find one anywhere. Any reccomendations?

If the issue is that your circuit is not dedicated - perhaps you should consider getting an electrician to put in some additional circuits dedicated to the moving lights. If you stick to 110 volts you could simply have a dedicated Edison outlet next to each fixture. If you want 208 I expect that your electrician could wire this up for you as well.

[derekleffew]

Originally Posted by len

...Most fixtures DO NOT auto-sense the voltage input. With some fixtues (some Clay Paky IIRC) you can take the cover off the base and set voltage. Others must be factory pre-set and cannot be changed. Some will auto-sense and calibrate based on the voltage they "see." The important thing is to make sure you know which are which.

This is largely incorrect. Most modern fixtures sold today ARE auto-sensing, or at least multi-range. Often an internal jumper must be moved or fuses changed. Due to power requirements, some fixtures (VL3000-series comes to mind) won't run on 120V, but almost all (except DJ-type units) will run on 208V.

In the OP's case, the Martin MAC 550's are auto-ranging and the Robe 575 Spot XT's (can't find that exact model on Robe's site) likely use an internal jumper.

LionJ5, if you really want a "junction box" (proper term is ML PD) to allow your fixtures to run at 208V, Motion Labs and Nutech make some of the best, and most expensive. Be aware you'll then also need a stock of L6-20 cable, and possibly feeder cable also.