Leviton D4DMX dimmer nightmares

[TorontoAlchemy]

I run a black box theatre with satellite DMX dimmer packs.

We have:
2 Leviton DDS 6000 4-dimmer packs
5 Leviton D4DMX 4-dimmer packs

Here is the link on the D4DMX's
http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/ibeCC...?section=15393

Of my 5 D4DMX packs here is the present state of their dimmers
#1-2 work, 2 don't (always turn on at 100%)
#2-2 work, 2 don't
#3-4 work
#4-2 work, 2 don't (1 receives no signal, 1 piggybacks on signal of another)
#5-3 work, 1 doesn't (allways on at 100%)

All 5 of these are less than 4 years old, and 2 of them are less than 1 year (#4 & 5!)

I have constant problems with these D4DMX. All sorts of bizarre things happen every time I change the hard patch. However once I have completed the new hard patch then everything runs fine for performances. But then for the next hard patch change the problems start all over again.

In contrast the DDS 6000 packs work perfectly and I have never had a problem.

I've spoken to the Leviton help line about this and they told me that these D4DMX's are made in China and apart from the brief manual which comes with the pack they don't have any technical information in English. It is all in Chinese (!). They said there is simply no tech help they can provide me (unless I speak Chinese)

These packs are the least expensive in the Leviton line and I now understand why they are so cheap. But I must admit I am very surprised that Leviton, a quality provider of high quality products, would stock something so crappy.

Anyway, just wanted to vent a little, but also to possibly save someone else from making the mistake I made with these. Stay away...stay far far away!

We're going to retire these soon (ie smash with hammer) and move to some of the 220v 12x1200 watt packs.

Simon

[Van]

Sounds like some are stuck in non-dim mode. Is it a possible adressing problem ? I hate to knock Leviton < wait , no I don't> since thier kinda local , but the idea that they don't have any documentation for a product they sell seems a bit far fetched.

[TorontoAlchemy]

I think whats happening is that some of the circuitry components which regulate the flow of electricity from the source through the pack to the output are failing. I had hoped that I could simply locate the relevant component and replace it within the pack. But as I was told by Leviton, they don't have circuitry specs in English (I agree that sounds bizarre, but that's what I was told, and the techie I spoke to seemed to find it as bizarrely amusing as I do)

Speaking of amusing, my favourite funny story about these packs was when I was using a voltage meter to check one of the non-working dimmers. My voltage meter dutifully told me that there was a strong 110v coming out of the dimmer. "So why won't my light turn on!!!", I cursed and fumed at the dimmer. Eventually I realized that although there was a nice strong flow of volts, there were unfortunetly no amps coming out! Doh!

[tony]

Originally Posted by TorontoAlchemy

Eventually I realized that although there was a nice strong flow of volts, there were unfortunetly no amps coming out! Doh!

u cant get a reading on amps because
1. amps are relative to the load on the line
2. because u must place ur tester in series with the load
btw putting ur tester in the plug with no loads shorts the line thus blowing ur dimmer or channel or fuse
know ur stuff before attempting repairs or what so ever involving testing

also, as van said check your adressing since those dimmers dont use standard dmx adressing...not 1,2,4,8,16,32, etc
check on the internet for some archives of the manuals or something

-Antoine

[TorontoAlchemy]

I'm not sure that I understand what you mean by "not using standard dmx".

Here is the page to the manuals download http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/ibeCC...?section=15393

As you can see, the manual is only 4 pages long.

I understand the difference between the "P"-programed cycle mode and the "A"-addressed dmx mode. Also I understand the differerence between setting the pack to 1-dimmer, 2-dimmers or 4 dimmers. And I understand how to set the starting dimmer # (ie A005 in the 4 dimmer option will give Dimmers #5, #6, #7, #8.

Beyond that, there are no other control options.

Both myself and no fewer than about 20-30 lighting designers/techies have been cursing at these packs over the past several years, and I figure it's unlikely we've all missed something obvious. Although I would be happy to be proven wrong. :-)
Thx

[tony]

im sorry ..... I had the wrong info.(Landed on wrong internet page) :\
I thought the adressing was done with dip switches
anyway ... did you get them checked by an electronic tech?

[TorontoAlchemy]

Yesterday I had an electrician reviewing my breaker panel in order to give me a quote on some rewiring/adding some 220v breakers/etc.

He told me something about the action of dimmers that I had never heard before.

I had previously thought that if I have a 500w light plugged to a dimmer, and I dim to 10%, then my power use was 50w (ie 10% of 500).

Apparently that is not the case, and I continue to draw the full 500w. However only 50w is sent from the dimmer to the light, and the rest is consumed by the dimmer pack.

With these 600w dimmers there have been times when I would plug in 2x500w lights, but only dim them to 50% max. I figured as long as I was below the 600w output to the light I was ok.

But now I wonder if perhaps the 1000w power draw on the 600w dimmer may have fried one of the circuits? I would have figured the 600w dimmer breaker would have tripped if I was overcapacity, but perhaps that only trips if my output to the lights exceeds 600watts?

On my bigger packs the per dimmer capacity is 1200 watts, and since I have never gone 3x500w on one of those dimmers perhaps that is why I have only had problems on the smaller packs?

Does any of this sound familiar to anyone? Is it damaging for a dimmer if you plug in lights that take it over capacity, even if you only output wattage to the lights that is under capacity?

Simon

[soundlight]

That's definitely a problem. The max that I would put on a 600W dimmer is a 500W bulb (to allow for cabling and other resistance points in the current flow). You should never put more wattage in lamps on a dimmer than the dimmer is listed for (by lamp wattage I mean total wattage of the maximum/full output of all of the lamps/fixtures on a dimmer).

For instance, if I have a dimmer that is 2400W total (600W/channel), I'd put one 500W instrument per channel on it at most. That leaves 400W for leeway. This is way more than needed, but I don't like to push the dimmers to far (yes, dimmers can be pushed to far, we've had some of our packs go because we loaded 2400W dimmers at 2400W, and that wore them out MUCH faster).

[BillESC]

It would appear that operator error rather than poor quality construction is the cause of the problem.

We have sold and installed NSI dimmers for over 20 years and their failure rate is one of the lowest in the industry.

[soundlight]

Originally Posted by BillESC

We have sold and installed NSI dimmers for over 20 years and their failure rate is one of the lowest in the industry.

That's why I like NSI stuff...their dimmers are virtually bulletproof. It's amazing how much abuse they can take.