Gel Frames on P64 LED?

[PadawanGeek]

I was wondering, why on Earth are there gel frames on ADJ P64 LED's? Its not like you need to put a red gel on it

[soundman]

Frost, barn doors and color correction spring to my mind as reason why some one might need the gel frame.

[PadawanGeek]

Originally Posted by soundman

Frost, barn doors and color correction spring to my mind as reason why some one might need the gel frame.

What would the frost do on the P64? I know, idiotic question.

[zac850]

The same thing it would do in any other light, soften the beam edges, blend everything together better. For example, if I had some LED PAR 64s as audience abuse lights, and I didn't want the audience to see each individual pixel, but only the circle of color out of the PAR64, I would put some R119 or R116 frost in it.

[PadawanGeek]

Originally Posted by zac850

The same thing it would do in any other light, soften the beam edges, blend everything together better. For example, if I had some LED PAR 64s as audience abuse lights, and I didn't want the audience to see each individual pixel, but only the circle of color out of the PAR64, I would put some R119 or R116 frost in it.

Ok, thats what I thought. Thanks!

[soundman]

Originally Posted by PadawanGeek

What would the frost do on the P64? I know, idiotic question.

Lets say you were using them as backlight and you didn't want the pars to look like LED pars (I think its an ugly look) frost will help the leds blend together, not perfect but a fix.

[soundlight]

If I was doing a rock'n'roll type gig with, say 30 of them as backlight, I'd want to have half of them amber shifted with something like R02 or R13. I'd also have the other half with R00, or I'd put a light frost in both and not put the double zero in the second half. This would eliminate the annoying visibility of the various LED's in the cans.

[Sean]

Originally Posted by soundlight

If I was doing a rock'n'roll type gig with, say 30 of them as backlight, I'd want to have half of them amber shifted with something like R02 or R13. I'd also have the other half with R00, or I'd put a light frost in both and not put the double zero in the second half. This would eliminate the annoying visibility of the various LED's in the cans.

Why the amber shift? If it's a color-mixing unit, that is....

R00 is clear, btw. Won't make the LED's "go away".

--Sean

[soundlight]

I'm one of those anal people who would have the R00 in there just because there was an amber shift in the others. I don't do this with regular lights, but just for the appearance of a backlit rock concert, that's what I would do, to have the uniformity of gels and gel frames in all fixtures.

I mentioned that if I didn't want the LED's to be seen, I would put in some light frost (don't have my Rosco book on me now, it's up in my room, but something in the 11x range, as in 114, 119, whatever is a nice light frost...I can never remember those).

And why the amber shift? Have you used an RGB LED unit? NO good amber. None. That's why. Just be able to have a completely different set of colors in the other unit.

[Sean]

Originally Posted by soundlight

And why the amber shift? Have you used an RGB LED unit? NO good amber. None. That's why. Just be able to have a completely different set of colors in the other unit.

There isn't amber because LED's are not full-spectrum sources. If the wavelength isn't there in the first place, gel will not "make it appear".

A tungsten source emits a full white (composed of the whole rainbow, if you will). A filter takes out the undesired wavelengths. If the "amber" you want isn't there, you won't really get it.

It's not the same a color-correcting tungsten to daylight, etc. RGB LED's are narrow spikes on the spectrum.

--Sean