T-3 Worklights as concert lighting

[soundlight]

So I'm doing this benefit gig, and I'm going to have access to 6 of those "single-cell" T-3 worklight fixtures. Luckily, they're black, not blazing bright yellow or orange or red paint. I'll be lamping them down to 250W so that I can fit everything on my alotted circuits. I'm planning to use two for frontlight, two basically in line with the downstage monitor line for some interesting shadow effects on the back wall and uplighting, and then two on the drum riser to shoot through the band. Has anyone ever used these with gel, and if so, how fast is it toasted through? Would it be worth while to make some improvised color extenders out of metal flashing if I'm gonna use 'em with something like R19 or R65?

[gafftapegreenia]

We have talked about this in the past. Not sure what to tell you to search tho. Anyway, these WILL and DO burn gel. I assume your either have a glass front or glass front and cage? You CANNOT tape gel directly to them without having it melt. I like your idea for color frame extenders. I think some made out of metal flashing and muffler tape might be ideal. If you construct them for proper airflow it could work nicely. In fact that isn't a bad idea, might borrow it someday.

[soundlight]

Originally Posted by gafftapegreenia

We have talked about this in the past. Not sure what to tell you to search tho. Anyway, these WILL and DO burn gel. I assume your either have a glass front or glass front and cage? You CANNOT tape gel directly to them without having it melt. I like your idea for color frame extenders. I think some made out of metal flashing and muffler tape might be ideal. If you construct them for proper airflow it could work nicely. In fact that isn't a bad idea, might borrow it someday.

A search for "worklight" brings up the past threads, I did this before posting.
I started a new one to get people's specific experiences, and I've already looked over the old threads.
I also wanted to get people's reactions to the homemade color extender idea.
Yeah, these fixtures are excellent for budget lighting - a 250W or 500W punch light for under $20. I plan to keep and use the two extra that I buy on top of the four availible to me on this show. Great for blinders, cheap frontlight, and for blasting through the band from a drum riser...and the beam spills enough to provide the ambient light that I need for this show.

[gafftapegreenia]

Can't help but agree with you. Derek should be along soon with his comments.

[TupeloTechie]

I have used a similar work light for projecting through windows. Ours didn't have the metal cage on them. I just cut a piece of gel a little bigger than the glass then taped the top and bottom to the frame (leaving a curved gap between the glass and the gel.) We had these on at full intensity for 2 hours a night for 4 nights and never had to change out the gel. It may be that we were not using very saturated colors, R03 and R64, but I never had the gel melt or burn.

[Logos]

I love these as blinders and as floods and I actually have a purpose built row of four in a single case. Nothing I have done stops them burning out saturated gels. I had Lee119 in them in a frame held about 1 - 2 centimeters (1/2 inch) out from the glass and I had to replace the 119 every night. The 106 red (which is also saturated) held out for about three nights and the amber (can't remember the number it was scraps) lasted a 3 week run.

[derekleffew]

Originally Posted by gafftapegreenia

Can't help but agree with you. Derek should be along soon with his comments.

Thanks? for the vote (of confidence?) Here's what I have done with these fixtures. Using large binder clips, affix a U shaped approx. 1/2 sheet of color media to the fixture, ideally using the non-heat-conductive wooden spring style clothespin, C-47s for the movie folks, for keeping the media from touching the wire cage. I've never had even the darkest colors burn out. I love these fixtures for small theatres. You need the binder clips to clip to the hot fixture and the C-47s to keep the color media away from all points of contact with the metal cage.

I have also removed the cage and the glass, and binder clipped the color to the fixture, but today I would not recommend that mod.

Also, the fixtures sold as "exterior floodlights" are less-expensive, and don't have a cage, but need some creative mounting and wiring options., usually involving an electrical box and blank cover, with 14/3 SO tail, Edison cord cap, and C-Clamp.

[gafftapegreenia]

Derek, I just know that you've used them with gel in the past.

[PadawanGeek]

I was trying to light my green screen with these the other day and be warned, even with the grille off, there are still funny lines in the beam

[derekleffew]

Originally Posted by gafftapegreenia

Derek, I just know that you've used them with gel in the past.

Negative. I have seen sheets of gelatin, but never put it into lights. By the time I arrived on the scene, the industry had migrated to Roscolene and Cinemoid color media.

Originally Posted by PadawanGeek

I was trying to light my green screen with these the other day and be warned, even with the grill off, there are still funny lines in the beam

I have not experienced this. I would suspect some frost, such as Roscolux 114, would rid the "funny little lines," albeit at a slight loss of intensity. Also an inside frosted T-3 lamp, rather than the clear, would probably be best, but frost or diffusion media would be less expensive.