Typical Plot Size?

[jaredwooden921]

Hey Guys..

I was wondering what you usually size you usually print your light plots. I want a fairly big one and I'm taking the file to Kinkos in the morning. Thanks for your help..

[icewolf08]

Originally Posted by jaredwooden921

Hey Guys..
I was wondering what you usually size you usually print your light plots. I want a fairly big one and I'm taking the file to Kinkos in the morning. Thanks for your help..

I prefer getting plots in 1/2"=1'-0" scale, I don't care what size that paper is as long as the entire plot fits on one page. For our theatre that usually means Arch E (48"x36") sheets. The other size that is common is Arch D (24"x36").

By entire plot on one page, I don't mean that you have to squash all the info on one plate, often designers will do a separate boom plate. You of course should always include a centerline section on a plate as well.

Also, I know that it may seem a waste, but I find it more convenient to have all the plates the same size.

[soundlight]

Yeah, whatever will get you 1/2" scale is usually the best bet. My other standard of measure for less-equipped theatres is "will it fit on a card table?" because that's often what I use as a plot table during hang and focus.

[Van]

It Kind of depends on how large/involved of a plot it is. 1/4" usually works for most blackbox spaces some folks like nothing smaller than 1/2". I typically provide LD's with a 16" X 20" GP in 3/8" or 1/2" just don't let kinkos "Print to Page" or you'll have no idea of the actual scale. Although I guess with lights things are a lot more forgivin than with exact placement of set pieces.

[icewolf08]

Originally Posted by soundlight

Yeah, whatever will get you 1/2" scale is usually the best bet. My other standard of measure for less-equipped theatres is "will it fit on a card table?" because that's often what I use as a plot table during hang and focus.

I use a card table also, I believe it is 36"x36" or close to that, but I would rather have a plot in a normal scale than one that fits my table. I have a couple designers who love to send in plots in 3/8" scale (because it is the biggest scale that you can fit our theatre on Arch D paper), and that drives me nuts because the math is harder when you don't have your scale rule. 1/2" and 1/4" scale are real easy to deal with when you are on the floor with a tape measure and not a scale rule.

[gafftaper]

You are asking the wrong question. Don't choose the size of the print out. Choose the scale (1/4" or 1/2") and print it to an accurate size however large that may be. Never blow up or reduce a scale drawing because you have no idea what the scale is then.

[derekleffew]

Originally Posted by icewolf08

I prefer getting plots in 1/2"=1'-0" scale, I don't care what size that paper is as long as the entire plot fits on one page. For our theatre that usually means Arch E (48"x36") sheets. The other size that is common is Arch D (24"x36")...

I second what Alex said. No larger than 36x48 and no smaller than 24x36, unless a very small space. As far as scale, always put an scaled ruler as an icon on your drawing and add the phrase "Unless Enlarged/Reduced" after [1/2"=1'0"] in this day and age of PDFs and other electronic reproduction. A separate "Hanging Plot" layer can be created with dimensions for hanging every fixture, and discarded once the show is hung/pipe tapes are created.

[Sean]

I used to be of the opinion that 1/2" was needed.

Now, I'd much rather deal with 1/4". For me that's usually 2-3 plates in Arch D (plus another plate for the section). When I fold up a drawing it doesn't take up a lot of space. And, if I don't have a lot of layout room I can fold it like you do a newspaper to see the particular parts I need easily.

The key is good layout when you're drafting. If you can condense the FOH to make both the FOH and overstage fit one plate, you might consider it. As most FOH positions are fixed (catwalks, balcony rails, etc) they don't need to be the "true" distance from the stage.

--Sean

[gafftaper]

As for the 1/2" vs 1/4" debate, that's a direct function of how big is the theater and how much gear do you hang. If we are talking about less than 100 instruments in a small educational and or community theater venue, 1/4" is probably just fine. If you are hanging 500 lights for a show in a massive theater... you need 1/2" or you won't be able to figure out what's going on.

[Footer]

1/4" all the way. I HATE HATE HATE E sized plates. Also, I never want the set on my LP. I don't want focus on the plot ether, all I want is the instrument, the color, unit number, and channel number. Don't leave me boxes to fill in the dimmer number either. For me a plot goes as far as getting distance off center info and which way the fixture is pointed, then its paperwork from there on out. I always put my distance off center on my ppwk and sometimes the direction the unit is pointing. This makes making pipe tapes much easier. A D sized plate usually folds up very well to fit into a binder, an E size plate is usually too thick to fit neatly. Plots are useful, but it is a pain to rifle through a plot to find things, ppwk/lightwright is the way to go.