Hot patching on a CD-80

[disc2slick]

Hey all,

I know that, generally, one should not plug things like motors (or in this case, blenders) into dimmers for the sake of both the piece of equipment and the dimmer. Does this apply to dimmers that can be 'hot patched' on? I'm referring to on a CD-80 24-rack you can press the little light up button on the rack to keep it on at full intensity, does this make it okay? or at least less bad?

P.S. The reason I am asking about plugging a blender in is because I work in an upscale 'event space' (or some such nonsense) where the only power that can be be easily custom distributed is out dimmers.


Thanks a bunch,
Dan

[JD]

Oh, I thought you were making Pina Coladas fro the crew!

Actually, a blender motor is a brush type motor which will work at any voltage and even DC (blanket statement, there are always exceptions!) The biggest problems on dimmers are transformers and inductive motors under light load. In either case, the "flyback" voltages caused by the chopping of the waveform can do damage to the load equipment and the dimmers.

I can not say if your dimmers or blender would be safe. I only know that I once had a roadie "borrow" one of my Scrimmeretts (back in the 80's) to get good speed control while making frozen drinks! Apparently, it worked very well, although I had not authorized this!

I would... ahhh... check with the manufacturer.

[TimMiller]

If you have a couple extra modules laying around i'd just make some non dim modules. All you have to do is disconnect the control wires that go to the SSR, pull out the SSR and coil and make the wire bypass the scr and go directly from the line, through the breaker to the load.

[Footer]

Originally Posted by TimMiller

If you have a couple extra modules laying around i'd just make some non dim modules. All you have to do is disconnect the control wires that go to the SSR, pull out the SSR and coil and make the wire bypass the scr and go directly from the line, through the breaker to the load.

Those aren't actual non-dims, those are just a hot circuit. They do make legit non dim modules for the CD80's.

[phil000]

Originally Posted by disc2slick

Hey all,
I know that, generally, one should not plug things like motors (or in this case, blenders) into dimmers for the sake of both the piece of equipment and the dimmer. Does this apply to dimmers that can be 'hot patched' on? I'm referring to on a CD-80 24-rack you can press the little light up button on the rack to keep it on at full intensity, does this make it okay? or at least less bad?
P.S. The reason I am asking about plugging a blender in is because I work in an upscale 'event space' (or some such nonsense) where the only power that can be be easily custom distributed is out dimmers.
Thanks a bunch,
Dan

Dan, I'm sorry I don't have any answers, I did it the other day, and I hope it doesn't do any damage, we ran a hazer off of it...well, because we had to.
...30 minutes later of browsing manuals...
I think it might matter to what year it is as there are 3 different generations I think, so if you could let us know that might help as well

I'll keep looking, maybe we can both help each other, or someone else might come along and help

[Darthrob13]

I think he has a 24 way pack.

Official stance is that you shouldn't do this.

Most likely the dimmer and the blender will be fine.....just make enough to share with the repair tech and you'll be fine.

[Flyboy]

Like everyone says, you're not supposed to do it; any problem in either the dimmer or the motor could damage one or both components. And even though I don't like to, I have managed in the past by hot-patching into dimmers. My old school actually has a habit of powering their moving lights from a "hot-patched" dimmer on their CD-80 rack (which is stupid because they actually have non-dim packs), and although I'm just waiting for something to go wrong, nothing has happened yet...

[TimMiller]

Originally Posted by Footer4321

Those aren't actual non-dims, those are just a hot circuit. They do make legit non dim modules for the CD80's.

What i was describing is the way strand makes their non dim modules for the CD-80. Its a module that bypasses all electronic control, and directly feeds power to the circuit off of the buss bar. The only form of control left is the over current device between the buss and the load. (the breaker between the buss (the BIG COPPER THING YOU NEVER TOUCH, THAT IS ALWAYS HOT) and the load (appliances, foggers, etc).

[icewolf08]

I think we are splitting hairs over true non-dim "constant circuit" modules and relay modules which you can turn on and off from the console, but when on are effectively the same as a non-dim.

[Footer]

Originally Posted by TimMiller

What i was describing is the way strand makes their non dim modules for the CD-80. Its a module that bypasses all electronic control, and directly feeds power to the circuit off of the buss bar. The only form of control left is the over current device between the buss and the load. (the breaker between the buss (the BIG COPPER THING YOU NEVER TOUCH, THAT IS ALWAYS HOT) and the load (appliances, foggers, etc).

Had to do that exact thing last weekend when we had a storm and blew out a unison controller, had to hot patch all the house lights to work by re-wiring the packs. A ton of fun...