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This past summer i worked a show and the dimmers chosen by the LD was an ETC Sensor 98. So i thought i would share a story to see if anyone has encountered the same problem that we did. We rigged our whole show and connected all of the cables to the dimmer. The board was connected and everything seemed to be ok. However when we went to check eveything (patches and lamps) nothing went on! We then spent countless hours trying to figure out what was going on between the board and dimmer. All of the breakers were on, power was getting to the dimmer, all dmx cables we going to their correct places, the master slider was up, and on and on.......... FINALLY, after contacting the rental company, we had found our problem. Because the sensor racks have slide out removable dimmers, each and every dimmer had come out of position during transport, so we didn't notice. I found this to be hilarious because such a simple thing had caused us such a big problem. I think that ETC should consider some kind of locking mechinism for the sensor series to avoid this problem. Now of course we know to make sure all of the dimmers were pushed in all of the way before we start!
I just wanted to share this story so anyone who has used this rack and possibly experianced a similar problem, might now be able to fix it, and to let you know of this in case you run into a similar problem. Last edited by nmccoart5; August 16th, 2008 at 12:28 AM.. |
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I bet you $11ty-bazillion it WASN'T an ETC Sensor 98 dimmer rack, nor did the LD have much authority in its selection. ETC dimmers are what good lighting shops have. Period. "Industry-standard" and all that other marketing hokum.
ETC Touring Racks since (1996?) HAVE had a mechanical locking feature as you describe, but it's wise practice nonetheless to make ensure ANY/Every piece of portable pull-out gear is correctly seated before applying power. Vibration from bouncing around in the back of a truck takes its toll on all gear. Next time, rather than "spending countless hours" troubleshooting, due do diligence. Then, if the problem still exists, call ETC at 1-800-688-4116, 24/7/365. Tech support doesn't mind stupid questions, it actually gives them a break from the more difficult problems, and both parties are left with a feeling of satisfaction. Unlike with some/most other manufacturers, you won't be told to first call the place where you rented or purchased the ill-behaved device, unless it needs something more than phone service.Thanks for the tip, nmccoart5. It's a good one, solving a problem that has bitten me, more than once. Remembering to push in all the modules is a small price to pay for the privilege of using the best dimmer on the market.
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Better questions produce better answers! Last edited by derekleffew; August 14th, 2008 at 06:47 PM.. |
| The Following User Says Thank You to derekleffew For This Useful Post: | ||
philhaney (September 25th, 2008) | ||
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Derek has covered the issue already, but I have some peeves.
"This past summer i worked a show and the dimmer chosen by the LD was an ETC Sensor 98" One of the things that will separate you from the lesser folks is going to be your ability to get the specifics of the gear correct, especially if describing it on a forum dedicated to the technical entertaiment industry. It's a Sensor 96, not 98. It's the most common dimming system, probably in the world. It has multiple dimmer"s", plural, that's why it's called a 96. Not Dimmer, singular. As Derek has mentioned, and hopefully this is something you will retain, as well as a thanks for taking the time to bring it up, as it's one of those things everyone learns and forgets to pass along, is that Sensor dimmers get knocked out of contact in shipment. This is something every roadie and house electrician is aware of and has learned the hard way, and the very first thing I do on a touring rack, prior to connecting ANY cables, is open the door and re-seat the dimmer modules. Plural. Sorry if I sound cranky, I am. Steve B. |
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Not just the dimmers but don't forget to reseat the CEM. I was teching a rack and the CEM was giving an error about the C phase not working. The phase C neon on the rear of the rack was not lit as well yet metering between any phase and C would give 208V and between neutral would give 120V. Turns out the CEM was not seated all the way and that connection was not made. The neon on the back was just plain burned out.
Last edited by soundman; August 14th, 2008 at 10:35 PM.. Reason: spelling |
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Quote:
Now SteveB, I've never called the item in question a "96", or even "Sensor 96." I have used the terms: "Sensor dimmer rack," "Sensor rack," "Sensor 96x2.4" "Sensor TR-48," "Sensor 96-way," and the same terms without the "Sensor" part. I have heard it referred to as a "dimmer," by professionals, who were probably just too lazy to add the word "rack." I have a feeling I'd get decked if an Upstaging Crew Chief said, "Take that dimmer to stage right" and I replied "Which dimmer? Don't you want them all over there?" At least the OP didn't say "an ETC Senser 98". Kudos for using "an" instead of "a" before "ETC," nmccoart5. I have to go focuss the Kleigal leicos on the psyche now.
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An English Teacher, An English teacher........... Hmm, shades of Bye, Bye, Birdie.....
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Van J. McQueen Technical Director Artists Repertory Theatre "Ask What you Want, Answer what you can." That's my motto. Mine! Get it? Don't steal my motto! It makes me cranky! |
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YIKES we certainly jump all over someone... I'd rather have a dumb question or maybe even one that is slightly inaccurate than totally scare off people.
It is interesting that if you go to Used sensor 98 etc :: For Sale - Solaris you will see that solarisnetwork is all sold out of sensor 98!!!!!!! So not just young controlbooth folks make the mistake ;-))) Sharyn |
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Must be counting the spare module(s) that live in the rack. Does any other manufacturer provide convenient spares storage?
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| (no prefix), Control/Dimming, racks, rolling, sensor |
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