Need a remote douser ?

[cutlunch]

Van I am interested in the details.
I remember reading about this somewhere.

So did you basicaly provide the CD Rom with a 12v only supply, then wire a switch across the eject contacts to open / shut the drawer as required? What did use for the blackout material in the CD Rom paper, foild, wood etc?

Pictures please, especially how you mounted it on to your projector.

Thanks

[Footer]

Originally Posted by cutlunch

Van I am interested in the details.
I remember reading about this somewhere.
So did you basicaly provide the CD Rom with a 12v only supply, then wire a switch across the eject contacts to open / shut the drawer as required? What did use for the blackout material in the CD Rom paper, foild, wood etc?
Pictures please, especially how you mounted it on to your projector.
Thanks

More importantly, how to get by the few second delay after you hit the eject button.

[derekleffew]

Originally Posted by avkid

...
(I like to argue in the wee hours of the morning)

While you're arguing with yourself, Van will have built himself a perfectly usable DMX-operated projector dowser, and for much less money and in much less time, than the "DMX Compliant" City Theatrical model (not that there's anything wrong with City Theatrical's version).

Originally Posted by Footer4321

More importantly, how to get by the few second delay after you hit the eject button.

Um, execute the electrics cue a few seconds before one wants the projector to douse?

Or Van, there's always the Charc solution: just run the projector on a dimmer! He seems to think that a dimmer can control anything: Lycian followspot, strobelight, and goodness knows what else. (DON'T try this in Your Theatre, kids.)

[cutlunch]

Originally Posted by Footer4321

More importantly, how to get by the few second delay after you hit the eject button.

Practice LOL

[Van]

Originally Posted by cutlunch

Practice LOL

Actually the beauty of the system I used was that I ripped the entire electronics board out of the CD-ROM. I wired directly to the actuator motor, which is 5 volts. I originially thought, " I can just run the 12volts in, jumper the eject button to a SPST momentary push button." Then I realised that the logic circuits required the 12v and the 5 volt power supplies to be active. So to save time I pulled out an old Zip drive wall wart that I had lying around, pulled the board out of the CD-Rom. mounted a 1/8" mono < T/R> jack to the back side of the drive, which wires directly to the motor. I built the control box with a DPDT Center off Toggle switch, I supplied power to the switch through two seperate SPST momentary contact push buttons < 'cause I couldn't find a DPST Momentary> so you have a selector switch which you set at your stand-by and a "go" switch which you push to activate the device. The 5v power supply plugs in right at the control box in the booth, so you only have to run the cat5 cable out to the douser.
As far as mounting goes, I used the mounting holes built into the side of the drive, I installed two 1" angle irons using the stock screws. The mount that my projector sits on is a custom one that I made and the base is 3/4 plywood. I was able to screw the angle irons to the fron edge of the mount and have about 1/2" of clearance for the tray to pass in front of the lens. As for the dousing material, I was in a real hurry and I just put gaff across the hole in the middle of the tray then trimmed it down so it didn't interfere with the travel. I know that's cheest but, Hey I only had four hours. In the future I think I might put some 1/8" plexi on instead. Perhaps even be able to use a couple of different shades for cutting down the brightness of a projector for a certain cue. I'll get some pics up ASAP. Clean House opens tonight I go into techs for The Rabbit Hole in one week and only have half the set done and Electrics has the theater all next week, so it might take a couple of days.

[Charc]

I did the same thing as Van, however, my button solution is a lot better (no offense van.) If I were to re-do the project I'd do the aforementioned XLR adapter deal. Hell, I even could now, just buy a 3 ft XLR cable, and wire that sucker in. As it stands I used 100+ ft of the cheapest wire from radioshack.

I used a 5 or so V power supply straight to the motor. It makes the douser really light, all it contains is the housing, the tray, and the motor. Well, and a CD. What I did for blocking out light:

Super-glued a CD in the center of the tray, then I snapped off a mall chunk of CD, and super-glued it to the back, I then hit everything with matt black krylon fusion spray paint. Badass. As for mounting? Gaffed it down real good to a piece of 1x2 that made up the front of the projector mount. This system worked awesome.

I no longer have a use for it though, har.

[Raktor]

Mine has an RJ-45 port as well, but I've just soldered the cable so it triggers the eject button - so it still has all of its circuitry inside.

[derekleffew]

Originally Posted by avkid

Hmm...neither of those are technically DMX 512 compliant...

I assume you object to the one with the D3M, but what is not compliant about the one with no leads? And to which standard are you referring: USITT DMX512-1986, -1990, or DMX512A?

[Chris15]

Originally Posted by derekleffew

I assume you object to the one with the D3M, but what is not compliant about the one with no leads? And to which standard are you referring: USITT DMX512-1986, -1990, or DMX512A?

I love standards, there are so many to choose from. I agree the 3 pin is non Kosher, but I too could not see an issue with the terminal block option.

And here's another option: http://www.dmxprojects.com/projects_dmx_relay.html

[icewolf08]

There is also the DFD GPI OEM board, which can be spec'ed to output 0-10v analog or just be a contact closure.

I hate to say it, but while 3 pin connectors for DMX are not in the written standard they have become so common who really cares? I mean why bother being picky, I bet we all use some device that uses 3 pin for DMX. Also, most devices with 5 pin connectors don't have al five wired to something, that would just ad to labor costs, and since chances are we will never officially use the last two pins, why bother?