Any problem with getting muslin from a fabric store?

[JLNorthGA]

I can get 90" W muslin from the local fabric store for $8/yd. I don't have to pay shipping. I can get it from Jo-Ann Fabrics also. It comes in bleached and unbleached.

I will be using it to cover some back-lit flats.l I figure at 90" W, that is more than enough to cover a 6' W flat. I looked around for muslin at various theatrical suppliers and it usually is a lot wider than I need. It also is a bit more expensive. I don't need "tough" material - this will probably be used for this one show and then be relegated to the scene area after being rolled up.

[jonliles]

Last time I bought a large quantity of it, I ought in on-line from Jo-Anns. We bought somethign like 20 yds of i for about $100 (4 years ago). If you are going to paint in, go with unbleached. If not painted, go with bleached. We used the bleached muslin as a poor man's cyc.

[Footer]

There is one major issue with using fabric store muslin, its not flame treated. If you are going to paint/size it and use treatment chemicals then you are fine. However, in some way it must be flame treated to be onstage.

[JLNorthGA]

There is one major issue with using fabric store muslin, its not flame treated. If you are going to paint/size it and use treatment chemicals then you are fine. However, in some way it must be flame treated to be onstage.

Good point. I can get a spray flame retardant for $18. That should be good for all the flats.

Out of curiosity - would that apply to all of the wood? In all of the years I've built sets, I've never really thought about treating any of the wood.

[kicknargel]

Requirements vary wildly by location. In many places on the east coast especially every material needs to be treated, tested and certified. In other places no AHJ has set foot in the theatre ever since the building was opened. Having a fly system makes the risks and consequences of fire much greater, and generally requires stronger protections. If you're building something with electrics in it (or, gulp, using flame) you should take extra precautions.

I'd say the most common rule of thumb for venues that haven't heard otherwise is to treat fabrics, paper and highly combustable items and to make sure that all wood has at least has a coat of paint. That will slow combustion somewhat. Be careful with plastics--some are much more combustable than you might think. They are made out of petroleum, you know. If you're building something with electrics in it (or, gulp, using flame) you should take extra precautions.

Make sure that whatever retardant you get is specified for the material you're using it on, and that it carries some certification (generally from the states of NY and CA). Rosco makes a good line of products, and I also use Inspecta-Sheild (NY Fire-Shield, Inc - Inspecta-Shield, fire retardants, intumescent paint, fire retardant paint, nfpa 701, fire retardant treatment).