Your opinions of Cordless Drill-Drivers

[techieman33]

i owned a 16.8v craftsman drill, and i loved it, it fit well in my hand, weighed about right, and was tough as hell, i dropped it from about 15ft. on several occasions, and it kept right on working. It's still at my old high school somewhere.
as for the firestorms with the removable chucks, i don't like them at all, when there off the drill is very unbalanced, and i don't like that at all, i would rather use the craftsman countersink bits, the bit itself actually flips 180, it's easier, and you don't have to hold on to an extra piece.

[Sombra2]

i have a dewalt which is very good, and it amazing that it manufactored by black and decker, even though it the higher quality. I accidentally went through a metal piece behind some wood in my attic to run a wire through. I didn't realize it until i took a closer look.

[GlassMan]

Does anyone have any experience or know someone that has used the 18 volt hitachi cordless? I personnaly use an 18volt DeWalt XRP and love it, but know many that have have bad luck. But as earlier posts have said, the whole tool issue is hit and miss at best because this years great model is not next years.

[PATech]

Up until last year my school's drills were all Dewalt. This school year we are replacing the Dewalts with Panasonics as the Dewalts die. So far we are at 3 and 3. The Dewalts had a really good life-span of about 5 years, but the triggers have been failing it seems.

By the way the Panasonics are wonderful. They're powerful, well balanced, and actually brake when you release the trigger. The only problem that I can find is that they use a circle with an arrow diagram to designate forward and reverse which can be confusing, unlike the Dewalts which just had a straight arrow.

All the best.

[freshmantech]

i've been working both at home and in school on construction quite extensively. My first "drill" was one of those B&D screwers...the little 2 volt ones that set in a charger and look like...well...a long rod. That was retired to a dumpster when i tried goin through some actual wood. My second drill was a craftsman 14.4 drill. I was extatic at the time but within a year it's batteries (both of them) were failing and the charger took...a gentle touch to get it to work.

I recomend a Hitachi 14.4 drill for EVEYRTHING. It is powerful, cheap, and has yet to fail after 4 years now. My high school (upon my request) now has 2 and i own one at home as well.

DeWalt will always be god. The 18 and now 18+ series' of DeWalt drills are amazing both in their durability and power but lack in the "affordable" range. My only complaint about these incredable bright yellow devices is their price tag. If anyone could tell me where to get an 18v yellow devil for under 100, i'm all ears!

[OldGrover]

I'm coming from a different perspective then most of you (being someone who is 30, works full time (not in theatre) and thus probably has more disposable income) but I honestly can't see getting that attached to a cordless drill. Mine get lent, dropped, used as hammers, drowned, you name it (in general, not by me). So I just buy the cheapest 18v one I can and don't cry when it needs replacing.

There are tools I care about, but drills just are expendible

-OG

[freshmantech]

i guess it is your perspective on it. I would much rather use our 18 v dewalt than a 14.4 skill...there are senority "wars" before strike at our school as to who gets the dewalt...i usually end up winning as being the senior technician...but well, a drill becomes meaningful if it is used enough.

-Michael

ps. YOU DROWN YOUR DRILLS - MURDERER!!!

[OldGrover]

*grins* /I/ didn't drown my drill. Nor did I use it as a hammer. I just decided that going ballistic on the person that did wasn't worth it. Stress leads to an early grave

Now.. if they'd chosen to drown my new air compressor or dropped my lovely sliding compound mitre saw or... THOSE I would have gotten ticked about!

-OG

[ship]

He he he! I as a pro in the industry would choose the 14.4v over any 18v tool no matter the brand at a drop of a hat.

Perhaps check E-Bay and see how many 18v tools people want to sell off verses those having the lighter weight 14.4v tools on the market. 18 to 24v much less backpack is good if building a cabin in a forest without power around, fact is that if you run out of batteries on a 14.4v tool in normal usage, you are a special person. The 14.4v tool has more than enough power and most I talk to having these tools once they get beyond the matcho 18v part of it, regret having bought such things given it's extra weight that in using it all days long five days a week, really is not something to be swinging around.

While out of practice in the carp. trades, I would still expect those still doing so still laugh at those all too more power types coming in with 18v tools than complaining they are too heavy by the end of the day.

If of any help, my DeWalt #996 cordless pistol grip hammer drill has after earlier this year having had a new chuck, trigger and motor popped into it for $150.00 plus, now gone back into the repair shop for a new clutch. Given the thing is about 10 years old now and does not have much of the origional parts, it's well paid off itself at about $245.00 at the time.

This given for me at least a pistol grip version of a cordless tool is the only tool I will use given even a 14.4v backup T-Handle drill as my spare, or the shop owned three gear speed versions that in at least options are better than all. Still for me at least the pistol grip.

What ever the case, I have never met someone that uses such things for a living liking the extra weight given they have also used the 14.4v to compare with. Sure if you don't know better, more power wins out over extra weight, but until you compare, no contest in my opinion.

So given the first repair shop can't fix the discontinued model, I'm faced with the choice of sending it to a DeWalt repair shop that will do a $99.00 maximum repair to it in what costs more even for older drills, won't be charged. Something most companies in drill don't offer. This or in buying the next generation in cordless 14.5v hammer drill for another $145.00 and at least giving away the other only needing another $99.00 worth of repair than being almost brand new in other parts installed otherwise.

One can read into this as they wish about the need for a DeWalt or how much it costs for me to maintian something I like useing on a daily basis, but in the end, both the DeWalt 14.4 has well paid itself off and the pistol grip for me at least in being classically trained in holding a drill is much more comfortable. It's a testiment that ten years later I am debating fixing the old tool or replacing it given daily usage of it.

[OldGrover]

Heh. I'm a big guy with big hands and given the usage I do, I really like the 18's. I've never had any problems with weight, even after using it all day, and it can run all day without a recharge, which is nice. And it can handle drilling into cement and masonry without sucking its battery dry, which is also handy for me more then occasionally (not in the theatre, at home)

*shrugs* Everyone has to find the tools that work best for them, I guess. Expendable 18V drills do so for me

-OG

[ship]

Agreed in different strokes and no disrespect to your finding use in the 18v.

[OldGrover]

And besides.. it is funny watching tiny little actors trying to use it!

I have to take my amusement where I can.

-OG

[theaterscout]

My shop uses 2 Makita 14.4 v cordless drills, 2 Dewalt 12 v cordless drills, and 1 Dewalt corded drill. The Dewalts we have had for about 6 years but they are starting to show their age as they won't hold a charge for a long time and one of the batteries is shot. The Makitas we have had for about 4 1/2 years and they still work great considering the abuse that they have gone through.
We also have a couple really, really, really, old corded drills that I cannot even come up qwith a name brand for, but what they lack in style the make up for in power and tons of torque.

[agave]

I've built about two dozen sets, a garage, and tons of other stuff with my factory refurbished 18volt DeWalt and have never had one lick of trouble. Our shop used Makitas for years, switched to Porter Cable for a few years till all the batteries went to hell and then switched to 14.4v DeWalts and have had no trouble with them other than one with a faulty chuck which I have to find time to dismantle.

[ship]

I'm thinking that the question of battery in rating a cordless drill should be of seperate question and not really have a bearing on one's opinion of a drill. All normal cordless tool batteries have a limited lifespan - normally about 3 years with constant use. I have 3.6v Panasonic cordless screw drivers that have half that life yet. At that point the battery is the cause, you simply replace the batteries and as long as there is not a flaw in the tool design, and it's been maintained it should work properly again. That's about $45.00 worth of a new battery as opposed to what about $200 on average for a new drill? Batteries typically also have a one year warranty on them. If it dies, you return it for a replacement. (Save your recipts.)

Just finished spending about $350.00 over a period of about six months on my far above 14.4v cordless DeWalt pistol grip hammer drill to make it run. First one thing broke than another, this time requiring a new motor and other parts, A third time for a part that's discontinued. The Authorized service center was not able to fix it.

As a last chance, I sent it to a Black & Decker / DeWalt service center for their $100.00 maximum charge - no matter what's needed and they were not only able to get the discontinued clutch - given six weeks in the shop, but most of the rest of the parts on the drill including now a third motor were also replaced. I was hoping they would just give me a credit on a new drill but instead there are more new parts on this thing than origional ones. Should have sent it there in the first place and pocketed the $250.00 I wasted at another repair shop.

Given it was only about a month between the first and second manfunction, I still credit that - "what you didn't notice this" or problem the second time around with the repair shop but still paid it given those guys do this for a living just as I wire fixtures for a living and seem to know what I'm doing. That first repair shop had no warranty thus I paid more still in just hoping to get my favorite drill back. Could have been a new problem not noticed - it is old and well broken in after all. Than again, it took with the DeWalt shop more than just six weeks to get the drill back. The first time I went to pick it up I noted a gear selector switch problem it did not used to have. Normally it should just drop into gear. This "repaired" tool had way too much slop in doing so and would not stay in gear dependibly. Seems a new repair tech had "fixed it", and the shop's Master Tech once the problem was noted now had to repair the problem given the parts in stock were not suited for the drill in me doing the repair. Nothing new for a new tech to send slop out the door, just new that such inspection of their work passed by the eyes of the "old salt."

Thing is, when a tool does not function as designed, that expense can at times be much cheaper to repair than buying a new drill. I'm sure many tool companies will either give a credit or have a maximum repair price. I note a "factory referbishshed tool" sticker above and on my own Bosh Jigsaw which works as if new even if cheaper in cost given it's used. If you are a pro, you do factoryspec. work and the tool will be in perfect running condition. - good source by way of factory repair center them referbished tools. Given the old drill now also has full warranty coverage again, it for all intensive purposes is a new drill for $100.00 instead of $245 for a new version of it. Granted the $250.00 wasted was more a mistake in sending it to the wrong place.

This new/old drill even has a new break on it's motor that the old one never had. That bit stops almost instantly in saving the motor from damage. It very much is a brand new drill.

Six years ago I had about 10 or 12 cordless 14.4v DeWalt batteries for five tools using those batteries. Over the years, those batteries have died out and been replaced. I now have about four within one year old batteries but don't use the tools as much. There is also another four of the similar type in the shop I can pull from should I run out of juice.

Standardization is the key. Two batteries often will not be enough especially once they get older - short of Lithium (available as an option with some brands) which will last longer but have less power overall. If you have a standard battery in the shop, you always have power.

The shop just bought a Bosh 14.4v cordless drill. I'm pissed that someone did so. It's an excellent cordless drill and could be a good standard for the shop, but given we are already DeWalt, it was a poor choice. Seems Menards has stopped selling DeWalt equipment and as opposed to just going to Home Depot, the person buying it recognized the standardized battery problem but was too lazy to go the extra two miles down the road. Now as opposed to two "fresh" batteries put into the shop cordless tool battery system - given some are no doubt reaching the end of their life, we now will need to buy fresh batteries for the shop tools and three years from now buy more batteries for the Bosh as something that's not standardized.

I hope that the above two points clear up some confusion I see between the tool and the battery, much cost effectiveness of replacing tools with getting them repaired. Certainly at some point - given I had already spent $250 on the DeWalt, it would be cheaper to purchase a new one, but were it only $100.00 with full warranty this than will have been much more cost effective than the new tool. On batteries, it's a given they will wear out. That's just the price of using them. If your tool is not to be used for three months you need to discharge the battery. If shorter than that, but not used every day, take it out of the charger. Leaving a battery in a charger for more than a week is not as healthy as one might think over a extended period of time. After that, if used every day, you simply have to replace the things every few years.

Since the mid-1990's, there is yet to be a major improvement beyond three gear selectivity for speed on power tools. The older tools still work the same as new ones. Replacing because they don't work so well seems to me more a sympliclistic view of not understanding the investment you have. Go back to earlier "Top Gun" drills and others such as some origional versions of the Makita, and there were some serious design flaws with both clutch and speed selector. Most more modern tools have these problems solved along with the thermal cut off switches, and chip memories on the batteries taken out which were from Hell on some tools from a cetain era.

No you don't have to completely discharge your batteries any longer no matter what brand unless cheap crap say from Wagner, in order to ensure it will get a full charge. Have I mentioned this point enough? - Constantly finding people doing the velcro strap around the trigger in following some1990's inner chip mythology still alive about battery memories - given they even understand the necessity of why they do so.

If your battery is reaching the end of it's usefulness, you can try discharging it, but most likely it's a natural battery type of not holding as good of a charge type of thing and nothing to do with somewhere between the charger and battery out thinking you in only providing as much charge as that battery was charged for last time.

By the way, my 14.4v. DeWalt T-Handle is about 13 years old now and has been back to the shop perhaps four times - but only for a more or less yearly maintinence. It's the spare drill for when the other is in the shop or I need a higher gear to torque ratio. My other about 12 year old 14.4v Pistol grip I prefer has been sent in for maintinence yearly for probably it's first eight years when I was using it daily to an extreme, and about every other year since than. It's old and still used daily, just not to the extreme as putting a few hundred drywall screws in a day with it. Just a few hours a day of use. It has seen about either 18month or every two year service calls. That what is it, 12 year old daily used and highly abused drill in needing a new motor and lots of other things now is an excellent life for a cordless drill used that much. You will note that it's been maintained as per the manual as per a car. No oil in the car... you bet it's going to burn up. So things broke on it. Given the service center couldn't fix it I was all ready to upgrade because it paid itself off. 12 years old, much less older for the T-Handle that is less used?

Both cordless drills given a good battery still work the same or even better now than they did when they were new. Granted it's some cash spent to get them in for yearly maintinence. Still it's well worth the effort.

[techieman33]

I kind of agree with you on the battery's. But I don't really with cheaper drills. Take my dad's 14.4 firestorm, it was a couple of years old, and the batteries died, he also had a sawzall that used the same battery. Well Black and decker had stopped making that style of battery, so he would have had to have the "guts" replaced in them, which would have been $70 each, and for that he could go out and but a new contactors set, with drill, sawzall, cutoff saw, and light. So in some instances it is cheaper to just buy new.

[ship]

Indeed, at some point it is chearper at some point to buy new. Have you forgotton that I in the last six months spent over $350.00 for a 13 year old cordless drill they don't even make any more in it having been improved?

Didn't think the Firestorm batteries fit on a DeWalt cordless recepricating "sawzall". That interchangability will have been a selling point for shop tools verses personal tool usage I asked about with a no doubt similar discontinued battery system to yours. The 14.4v DeWalt battery pack on the other hand has been re-designed and is much better.

In any case it is as it is at times cheaper to buy a new tool. Do not get me wrong, in implying that fixing tools and replacing batteries is mostly the cheaper option, but at times less cost effective. My own intent was to replace my pistol grip with it's three speed upgrade. Heck even on a cordless drill 2 - battery kit, if three years from now, if both the batteries go weak, and the motor or something else expensive on the drill goes bad, the new drill certainly would be worth the investment for a new one at times. This given a motor going bad three years latter either means a crappy drill or one without proper maintinence and car. Those that don't maintain their tools, very much should not be buying high end tools anyway. Even if nothing is wrong, the grease in the gun gets funky and needs replacement. Some of the older tools you could re-lube and fix various parts on it, but on modern tools they are too complex even for me to maintain. Some DJ club owner would not be expected to service call his moving light, why would a theater tech person now be sufficient to service their cordless, much less given a theater tech, why would they not treat the tools they make a living with treat that equipment the same as the moving lights? Get my point here with maintaing your tools?

Too bad if changed in style, the old version can't be saved for spare parts as otherwise the norm between say 1986 and 1996 with certain drills. Much less had I saved my old 9.6v under-powered Makita cordless saw, it in still being made will have been worth money in parts.

In any case, I would not in any way call a Firestorm cordless tool industrial grade. I still fall back upon those at the Black & Decker / DeWalt service station's advice to me in not buying the Firestorm while first introduced in it being a "home owner" grade tool and not suited for more contractor situations. Check the torque or number of screws able to be driven as similar to that of even of the big brother DeWalt in similar voltages, and it will show a much less powerful motor no matter the battery size. Much less in cheaper parts when abused, will wear out quicker.

Actual usage might very, but in testing it's still not the most heavy duty of tools - more on line with Royobi or the Royobi made Tim Allen line.

The Warrior series from Skil replaced the Top Gun. The drill body you could actually flex in your hands if strong enough. It also went the way of home owners - not that the Top Gun was all that heavy duty in the first place.

For belt sanders, Royobi, Skil and Bosh sell very much similar looking models at different prices. Bought the Royobi and it on average lasted three months before I had to replace it's drive belt over a period of about a year. In reality, all it took was one good usage an the belt would melt down given a aluminum gear. Seems they used different cheaper internal parts than the Bosh I'm 10 years later in very much similar models yet to have to repair. While corded tools, it's still the same principals in tool design.

Granted the DeWalt and Porter Cable have good and even within debate better "SawZall" versions, but Milwaukee in it's SawZall became that bench mark just as in 9.6v Makita became a bench mark and in 12v and 14.4v DeWalt became a bench mark. Buy a 7.1/4" circular saw - especially if the more powerful worm drive version and it's called a "Skill Saw." Just as Milwaukee is known for their "Screw Shooters" and "SawZalls", Skil is known above other brands for the power and reliability of their worm drive contractor saws. Used to be that if you had a cordless drill, it was a "Makita". Since than it was a "DeWalt" but the bench mark in changing is still the same and with intent.

A bench mark is something to base others upon. If better, great. Otherwise if cheaper but not the same in all ways, there is a reason for it itslelf not being that bench mark in trust. Hate my T-Handle 14.4v DeWalt. Yet it's still the bench mark for the industry.

No matter what level of usage of the tools, this debate on tools as useful to all, and I have gotten more impressed with the later Firestorm, Craftsman and Royobi tools than initially, is still a debate on what's useful to buy and use as it's goal. Back in 86' if I did not purchase the Makita 9.6v HD version, my high school theater teacher will have clubbed me over the head and she was right in it being the best of it's day. Now everyone makes cordless and especially, what is that add by Milwaukee about a "V28 Lithium-Ion" system? No more heavy than your 18v. drills, but all day use off a single battery.

Your school's TD should research and provide a decent tool in doing his or her job. Beyond this should recommend as mine did by way of threat what you should purchase as any old timer should. Ever so many people buying 18v tools "more power" than complaining that they get too heavy to use all day long as opposed to walking a few feet to the charger in getting a fresh battery. Do you unless out in the woods and without power need the highest voltage now 28v drill? Heck, there are backpack units for extra batteries in series with you main one and even plug in batteries that change your cordless to corded now. Still the 12v drill is sufficient for a 2 hour on average charge, and the 14.4v cordless for a greater than that with standard usage. That extra pound in batteries adds up after this when if you set the drill down, it might just become gone.

The Milwaukee V28 might be useful in some situations for the "Portaband" tool usage of it, but for a limited situation such as this, that different battery type might be more useful in being unique to the system than having to climb and sit atop a ladder with a 28v drill just because it also works with the portaband you only some times use.

[techieman33]

Wow, another long post. And yes the batteries were basically interchangeable, you just had to break off a little plastic tab, and it would work just fine.

[ship]

But in being long, was it useful?

[techieman33]

I don't think I understand your question, but if you mean the top of the battery, it would lock into place, just like the rest.

[ricc0luke]

I use a DeWalt 18v Drill/Driver/Hammerdrill

I really don't need the hammerdrill, but I really enjoy the extra power. I don't have all that great of a corded drill so it balences out.

On thing that I have not heard anyone even mention is an inpact driver. I have the DeWalt DW056K-2. I once used someone elses while working on a show, and after that I had to get one for myself. It has a 1/4" hex shank quick release. I use it fro everything from driving screws to lag bolts without having to predrill. It works extreamly fast and very light weight. The best part is the unbeleavible power behind it. I would recommend that you all go out and try one---

more info at-- http://www.dewalt.com/us/products/to...productID=6341

[ricc0luke]

Just a note-- if you are looking at one, go with the IMPACT DRIVER, not the IMPACT WRENCH.

They also make them in 14.4v along with 12v.

Its worth your time to take a look-- and you money to buy one!

[ship]

Impact drivers are great tools. In a different post about some 10Kw fresnels, it was a pneumatic impact in this case I think wrench which removed a very stuck nut. They do have the power to do more work by suscessive blows than normal drill/drivers. For a bolt, there might be nothing better. There is also for contractors some cordless wire cutters and crimp tools. We have a four pin indent multi-cable pin crimp tool for such pins and it's sweet. Were I doing more distro racks, I would want a cordless or pneumatic crimp tool.

Such impact tools even on a stick drywall screw might have promiss. Otherwise it's a question of need for use in tightening boltls verses the other more general tool. Such a tool is probably on my list to puchase given a in general bulk of them. Good point in another tool on the market that's well within need at times. Impact tools also work as torque wrenches much more accurately than that of trusting a clutch setting based upon power or battery. If you need a specific torque, thest tools can't be topped.

i started with a ryobi 18v combo kit 5 yrs ago. i used it heavily as a commercial electrician. the drill was shot in a year, the others, whick i do not use anymore, still work great. when my ryobi drill broke, i bought the 18v dewalt hammer drill/driver. switched to doing residental electricial.i killed the motor in that drill in less than a year and a half batteries were also junk by then. i purchaced another 18v dewalt (newer model) which ive had for a year and a half and the clutch is smoked. batteries are still strong. i just went out and purchaced the ridgid 18v 4-pc kit and am searching in vain for any real testament to thier quality and durability. id love some feedback---

[sound_nerd]

Right now I have a Bosch 14.4V hammer drill. A year ago, I blew the clutch, and then screwed it up even more by changing gears with a hammer and screwdriver. Had it repaired, they had to replace the clutch, gear assembly, casing, chuck...basically everything except the motor. It's running strong still today.
At the college, we use all Dewalt drills, and impact drivers. The only beef I have with them is that the batteries die within an hour of hard use. Otherwise, I would recommend the DeWalt XRP drills anytime.

[ship]

Just got the newer version of the 14.4v DeWalt Hammer Drill/three speed. It's nice in having a higher RPM, but it's weight and configuration is off a lot from the origional one I'm used to. Finger/hand position on it is way different, instead of using ones second finger, it's more like the third by how it's laid out in holding the drill in one's hand and which finger is operating the trigger.

I very much like the older discontinued gun better but at least it's still a pistol grip instead of T-Handle.

I also dislike the chuck on the new drill.

Interesting note on the duration of change on a impact cordless. Makes sense I suppose for what its doing.

[Diarmuid]

I recently decided that I would buy my own cordless drill, as the one at my theatre, is quite old and slow, I also thought I would find it quite useful at home.
I bought a Black and Decker 18V CD18CA.

I have found it to be excellent, and perfect for itss intended use, of drilling through wood etc, to construct sets. It can also be used on metal, but I havent tried this out.
The only problem with it is, that it doesnt have a stand alone charger, and I think that this would be much better than having to plug the whole drill into the mains when charging it. I do think that the 18V battery, does last quite a long time, when it has been fully charged.

In my mind and at my school we like to use DeWalt drills. They are very dependible drills and have very good power.

[soundlight]

FEIN cordless drills are, without a doubt, the best. I was at at a theater this summer that had tons of different drills, different voltages, different brands. They had ONE 14v Fein drill that could take out the 18v Makita any day. It worked like a charm, and everyone in the scene shop wanted to use it, and would make excuses to borrow it from people and not give it back. And it was one of the older ones. I've tested new feins (can't remember what model), and they are still top on my list. They're great.

*edited after guest posts deleted*

[control]

i personally own a craftsman 18volt with a led at the bottum to light the work area but my school has dewalt 18volt xrp drills which keep on vanishingi think the bandies took them.

[gafftaper]

My first two cordless drills were Craftsman because like the original post from Ship said, I was raised in a Craftsman home. I quickly learned that while the hand tools are great the cordless drills are crap.

I currently own both a Black and Decker 14 Volt and 18 Volt Firestorm drills. I got the 14 volt for $40 at the factory outlet store and a few months later Lowes had a closeout on the 18 volt combo kit with a circular saw, flashlight, drill, laser level, and dustbuster for $90 so I just had to get it too. Both of these are good basic drills. Nothing special about them but they work fine for all my household needs.

My current work situation has me a year away from purchasing all the equipment for a brand new college theater. I'm definitely going to buy Dewalt at that point. They are sturdy, powerful, and just feel good in your hand.

When purchasing drills for my old high school shop I tended to buy Black and Decker because tools have a habit of walking away. While I would have loved to own Dewalts, I could buy 3 or 4 Black and Deckers for the same price. So it wasn't worth the risk when I had one or two stolen or broken every year (I think the custodians stole half of them).

Black and Decker has factory outlet stores... see if you can find one in your area. You can get refurbished 12 or 14 volt drills with two batteries and a charger for $30-$50 (the price is different every time you go). There was one time I went and every tool in the store was half price, even the refurbished stuff... I spent $400 that day. Yes it's inferior equipment but it's not bad equipment like Craftsman. It'll handle light work at home and if you're buying for a High School shop where tools are abused or stolen, it makes sense financially.

[MircleWorker]

I too prefer Dewalts also, but in my space I use now a $90.00 18 volt firestorms. When we opened, a "Box store" had them on sale for $80.00 each with two batteries and a fast charger they were $110 at the time. Yes they are cheap, but when a student breaks one I don't cry.

[MircleWorker]

One of the best cordless drills I have ever owned was a Panisonic. it was a 12 volt beauty, after 8 long years it died on me. Now I have a Dewalt.

[MHSTech]

Right now I have a 12v Craftsman, and it's just not cuttin it for me. I'm thinkin about buying the Milwaukee 28v set. Can't go wrong with that. Those are some serious cordless tools.

[soundlight]

We just recently got a B&D 12V at my high school, and it works pretty well. It only has one battery, and it won't cut it for putting in lag screws, but it'll do most everything else. But I still would take a Fein over anything else. I used one this past summer and they're the best cordless drills that I've ever used.

[gafftaper]

Hey Soundlight you can get a quickcharger for B&D batteries for around $30. It'll make your life much easier.

[saxman0317]

At the stage right now, we have a bunch of dewalts, as well as what we used to use at work. But dewalts cant handle a beating well for what you pay for them and the batteries are terrible.. Too behonest, the cordless i just bought personnally as well as a few at work are 18v Ryobis. You can only get em Home Depot i think, but their really inexpensive, and from the way that i use stuff like that, it lives still. Battery life is really good too. The last set we did i used to battery for 2-3 days without charging it. And thats with alot of use. Cheap, and **** good durability...just make sure you get the 18v and you can interchange it with a multitude of other tools. I bought a set with a one of those big lights that works real well gelled, a chainsaw, a sawzall, 2 drills, 4 batteries and charger, a vacum, and a circular saw for about 300$. You can also get just the drill for about 50$ on sale.

[tenor_singer]

I started my school year with four different cordless drills...

1 12 volt Black and Decker ($29.99 sale at Lowes)
1 14.4 volt Black and Decker (Came with a kit of tools that cost a total of $49.00)
1 14.4 volt Skill drill ($129.00)
1 19.2 volt Craftsman drill ($199.00... set with a saw, light, drill etc...)

Three of them broke throughout our constructions. The funny thing is... guess which drill is still working?

Yup... the freaking $29.99 black and decker drill (with the gell filled grip none-the-less). AND the only reason the other B&D drill broke is because a kid used it to bang in a nail, ruining the battery (which we couldn't find a replacement for).

Since then we've invested in a 12 volt DeWalt. It's a very good drill, but still doesn't beat our beastly 12 volt, on sale special Black and Decker (that was dropped 28 feet from a lift and still runs).

[jamsession]

Great topic! Worth discussing - albeit tools, esp drills is practically a religious topic*, with emotional favorites - thx for all the detail on your favs and why.

*(my all-time fav Christmas gift 10+ years ago still remains a Craftsman industrial strength corded drill - I've made beds, houses, sets, castles, bookcases, tables, who knows what else with it. The original rubber cord is due for replace, but it's still going strong and forever has a special place in my heart.)

funny - my favorite cordless drill isn't on the OP's original list that I could see, and scanning didn't see it mentioned. I'll keep this short and sweet.

My friend and I recently knocked out a 12' stage ramp in 2 hours. He was a trim carpenter for many years by trade, had daily used/abused/wore out every cordless out there (including Makita and DeWalt), and the ones he was using now were by _far_ his favorite. I'd have to agree - they have CRAZY torque and were a joy to use. Our pick:

RIDGID RIDGID RIDGID


If you're going to spend the $$$ for a good cordless or pair or more, check them out.

[derekleffew]

Call me a traditionalist, but Makita was the first, and I think still the best. I still have a 9.6V, 12V, and 14.4V. Anything greater than 14.4v weighs too much for general use. for very heavy-duty work, I'm also fond of the Milwaukee brand, but I understand they're not as good as they used to be. The DeWalt seems very rugged, but again too heavy.

I mentioned in another thread I prefer the Stanley Yankee screwdriver over any cordless, in some applications.