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| Notices |
| Scenery Can't figure out how to design or build that set just so? Post your questions or tips and tricks here! |
| View Poll Results: Preferred screwhead drive type? | |||
| Slotted |
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1 | 1.33% |
| Phillips |
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32 | 42.67% |
| Robertson/Square Drive |
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33 | 44.00% |
| Torx/Six-lobe |
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7 | 9.33% |
| Other (please specify...) |
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2 | 2.67% |
| Voters: 75. You may not vote on this poll | |||
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Learn something new everyday. Up until now, I thought that square slot was just some sort of tamper-proof screw.
I take it that Robertson was Canadian and that's why it took hold there? Joe |
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At a couple of houses I have worked in, and on a lot of touring shows I've woorked we just called Robertsons "Canadians". One touring show I worked on the MC had a whole drawer of Phillips bits and adapters for the times they were crossing the border 'cause no one up there had the right kind of screw bit.
One house I worked at, we would always throw a handful of phillips bit in one of the crates so the guys up North could assemble whatever we sent.
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Van J. McQueen Technical Director Artists Repertory Theatre Some people are like Slinkies... Not really good for anything, But they still bring a smile to your face......... When you push them down a flight of stairs..... |
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Are you trying to seduce me, Mrs. Robinson? What's that you say, Mrs. Robinson? Joltin' Joe has left and gone away. (hey, hey, hey)
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I haven't heard them referred to as six-lobe, but rather first knew them as "star" bits before I knew they were TORX.
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You must first know and understand the rules before you can break them. "Arc corroded lamps and bases are just like VD's, they spread through contact" Rx262310908049 Is it art yet? |
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Anyone used the LOX screws? Lox : Screws Designed for Power Tools I got some samples and thought they were great. Probably not the best for scenery though since the bits arent exactly easy to get....
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I remember seeing a thing on the discovery channel about it, quite some time ago. Anyways that's why they are so expensive in the USA today in part. They're manufactured in Canada and imported, because they cannot be manufactured in the USA. Or at least at one time they could not be. |
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I'm going with Robertson's because they always give me a better feel working with them, stay on the bit, etc. My Klein 10-in-1 driver is the most used tool in my arsenal, so bring it all on, slotted, phillips, square, torx, hex.
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Depends on the type of screw and application. Hex Screw/Bolt, Machine Screw, Wood Screw, set screw etc? Security in ensuring they cannot remove or not? If just talking about a black oxide coated bugle headed drywall screw, sure Torx, Robertson or Square drive question. Years ago in making scenery, I used to use the phillips drive screws for parts of scenery those striking the set “should take apart.” And square or Robertson screws for those striking the set (once assured there was no square drive bits on hand), were those screws that should not be taken apart. Torx drive drywall type screws were not out back than and I only rarely use them these days say for scaffold plank screws in “Drillcon” form. Overall in opinion, I still for the most part prefer a phillips drive screw. Something like 25 years of me using a drywall screw since introduced to me as a concept as opposed to nail or wood screw along with cordless drills as opposed to manual means and in time I have developed a certain amount of tension I hold to the screw in ensuring it properly drives without stripping until driven home at which point the power tool twists without need of a clutch or with a clutch setting when softer materials. Works well as with my preference of pistol grip instead of T-Handle power tools. Heck, even works well in technique with a DeWalt right angle cordless toll that’s totally off balance. Benefits, one can more often with effort with a phillips drive remove the screw once painted, plastered or dirtied up. This at times is difficult and takes a more experienced hand, fresh tip, a knife or if needed a drill out can often be done. All it takes is one stuck pebble of sand perhaps amongst other materials - a bit of paint or what ever and you ain’t never going to take that square drive or torx screw out. Disadvantage, those that don’t know how to properly drive a phillips screw or using screw drivers with stripped tips, even in choosing the #1 tip in not thinking about it, often strip the screw in driving it. This much less the pressure on the tip used to remove it in general can even in black oxide coated alloy steel or 18-8 stainless screws in general strip the screw... Often a question of proper training and use than the screw itself. Square drive and Torx screws don’t require proper pressure on the screw to fully and properly drive them for the most part. You don’t need to be as well trained in listening the - are you “drilling that screw home” or driving it home? This by way of at times perhaps adjusting your angle and pressure and or changing your tip. That square drive tip has a lot of use in it no matter the tension especially on its tip before it gets far enough to strip a screw or tip. Once it’s gone however, might be quite a few screws that cannot be removed later by it - all a training or understanding the full concept and principles of what you are doing type of thing. Sure, square drive you don’t need to push persay as hard to drive or remove the screw, on the other hand it does need to be fully seated and at times with the same amateurs having problems with phillips screws, they without proper training might not have that driver fully seated. This will strip the screw. After that, often for me say with machine screws is a huge complaint - you don’t stock phillips!!! “I need Phillips to replace a stripped screw we had to extract!” Most often and normally given I stock the most well stocked fastener walls in the shop, people needing them come to see me for replacement fasteners and for a common fastener, yep it’s slotted I stock. Sorry, my fiefdom and my choice in fastener for machine screw. You want other types of screw, go visit another department/fiefdom and see if a) you can find what you are looking for, and b) if they have it in stock. Otherwise get over it is my view. While I do stock phillips in many types of screw, overall for my purposes, I would rather depend upon the proper torque a slotted screw can provide over that of a phillips screw. It’s a machine screw and we drive them by hand thus easy rapid install with power tool most often isn’t necessary. Sheetmetal screws be them thread forming, thread cutting, self drilling etc. any number of types I stock and in them I do prefer square drive for the most part if not slotted washer head hex drive. Tapcons - concrete screws are not well done if phillips unless in really soft material, this as with most real thick steel threading screws. Hex head bolt verses socket head cap screw that uses an Allen key instead of wreanch? Depends on the situation and grade of bolt. Alloy steel often stronger than Grade 8 in normal bolt strength. Grade 5 stocked for common use with Grade 8 or alloy for truss or structural use. On the other hand recently did a upgrade fob for some light board which got encased within a box on a leash so it wouldn’t walk. Did some special security screws for that, this beyond other types of security screws in use be them Torx or Hex or other. Only one in the shop that has a full security screw bit and key kit in all forms... it limits the ability to access to lots of stuff. All depends on the situation, application, use and skill level just as with what thread to use NC or NF if threaded into material and thickness which on what material to use. Love for my ground screws for instance to use a 5/16" hex head 10-32 size thread forming green zinc plated slotted hex head 10-32 ground screw standard to the electrical industry along with a few zinc external tooth lock washers and a 18-8 grade stainless steel 3/8" hex top lock nut. Nut driving into the softer screw and with lock washers in use means it ain’t coming apart. Normally the nut is of lesser grade than the bolt but not in the case of a ground screw where it’s useful that green color. Also as benefit, given the 5/16" drive hex of the ground screw in addition to the slotted drive for it, this verses the 3/8" drive of the nut assures no matter the standard tools in use especially if nut drivers, one can properly tension such a screw without needing duplicates to tools. Pain in the rear when especially when a small size hex socket head screw strips out, pain when any screw strips out. Overall in my opinion, depends on the screw - this with lots of experience in cutting into any type of screw a slotted head with a die grinder so as to later attempt to remove it at best. Phillips and slotted screws often a question of pressure on the screw and tip often not properly done, other screws a question resistance to torque given its fully seated. Seen lots of square drive, hex and torx tips that get stripped out and can no longer driver a screw due to not being fully seated. This much less screws driven by them or by crap in the hole that don’t allow the screw to get removed. For me it all depends on the situation and training of the user. This and or... sorry my fiefdom stocks slotted screws for the most part, deal with them or find another supplier for fasteners often to replace what’s stripped. This much less I stock replacement tools and tips often not asked for before long gone or broken in not asking for in driving such phillips or square drive screws. Final big thing for me is Phillips verses PoziDrive tips for me. Really really hate PoziDrive screws, even over the weekend I was putting in some drawer glides and what was provided was the other than a phillips tip angle to the driver which easily strips out when using a phillips tip. Years upon years of using phillips drivers on Martin and other Euro gear be it Soco plug or Bud Box and one day a young lady without any persay time under the belt noted the eight notches to such screws in use which instantly changed how we do things in less stripping screws once we made readily available PoziDrive screwdrivers. Really really hate PoziDrive screws. Not better than phillips, strip out more readily and while they look similar it’s totally a different tip angle and driver. That’s a screw with a more pressure than turning force of a driver question than phillips in stripping out more easily thing. Now just to convince the Euro’s and French that PoziDrive sucks.. This as opposed to a Robertson verses Phillips debate... that would accomplish much more. How many multi-tools come with slotted, Phillips and PoziDrive plus Robertson drivers on them???? Phillips and slotted in my opinion for normal use - just a question of proper tool use in using them. Sorry you square drivers... no real need for such a bit type other than for an alternate tip or at times say into metal. Square drive TapCons... sure I think. Last edited by ship; June 17th, 2009 at 12:58 AM.. |
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Absolutely. I was under the impression that all visitors to Canada from the US (of any age) were given a complimentary #2 Robertson driver and a Tim Hortons travel mug. Is this not happening any more? What the heck are my tax dollars paying for ?!?!?
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Cheers! Sean Stone "If all the world's a stage, I want better lighting." |
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