Van's Super Scenic Dope Recipie?

[gafftaper]

So Van, I went to tell a friend about your VSSD and when I did the search I found 3 different recipes. I assume that means you don't really have a recipe and sort of fake it. I thought I would post this on the boards instead of in a P.M. because your VSSD sounds like a cool product we all should mess with a little. Could you choose one for us to follow as a starting point and maybe comment on what happens if you alter the ratios. Thanks!

Below are the recipes you have posted in the past.

Recipe #1
"3 qts flat latex paint < any color, good place to use up all the left over paints from the scenic painters shop>
3 - 5 tubes acrylic latex painters caulk ( often called Alex caulk) 1 cup Joint compound"

Recipe #2
"1 gallon latex paint
2 tubes Latex painters caulk. < not silicon>
1 cup Joint compound
1/2 cup water putty"

Recipe #3
"about 1 quart of latex paint ( this can be pretinted, neutral base, or a "waste" paint, as long as it's latex.
About 4 tubes of Latex caulk. Do not use Silicone caulk. Some Latex caulk are called 'siliconized' and those are ok to use as they are still latex based.
About 2 cups of drywall mud. Adds thickness and aids in setup time and helps leave a harder finish when dope is cured."

[Van]

Ack ! You caught me! Actually the last one is the closest to what I usually use. ........ However, as I've stated a couple of times < I think > I play with the formula a lot, depending on the particular use. Recipe #3 is what I really like to use for rocks, etc. mix in some paper pulp and it makes a great coating for doing bark on trees. The thinner recipes < #2 and #1 > make much better coatings for general foam coating, ie, if you need to make fake wooden beams, or if you are using Styro-foam type Moldings. We have a company here, North West Foam Products, in Tualatin < too - wall - it - in > that can create any type of molding you just send them a profile in a DXF format and they cut it. < luckily for me they are huge theatre fans and trade me for tickets all the time> Anyway, although their product is great, it needs to be coated with something to fill and prime the surface. The thinner products work better, as they will flow and settled better, and they leave less "texture".
I guess I should really standardize the formula, but perhaps this posting will help. I should point out too, that there are a couple of products out there which will accomplish similar ends, but they tend to be expensive:

Roscos "Scuplt or Coat" available though most theatrical suppliers

"Snow Roof" or "Snow Coat" an elastomeric coating used for coating roofs. I have used Snow roof as a base for VSSSD and added drywall mud for thickness, and then applied with a "hopper gun" this is effective for paving stones, brick, and, properly applied sandstone or stucco.

There is also a product used by roofers to seal styrofoam and styrene insulation called "Lagging compound" it's similar to snow roof but stickier and smellier, it has a bit more ammonia in it.

Most of these products are latex based and can be tinted with standard latex paint tints < available at most paint stores> Most can be thickened with drywall mud, or latex caulk

Remember when using caulk that it has to be Latex not silicone. Silicone caulk will ruin your day. It mixes with nothing water based. and it can't be painted over. and it's nasty, sticky and stinky.

I hope that helps .... feel free to fire away with the questions, I'll answer asap, but I'm heading into tech for the final show of the season. So feel free to PM me to check this thread and I will post here.
Good Idea Gaff, keeping this in a public forum rather than just PMing.