Flat Seams
- Thread starterBNEL
- Start date
Masking tape works pretty well. The big thing is that the flats are well made. If the luan does not line up just right its not a pretty thing.
If you are already dutching, I would move to joint compound or scenic dope. It will clean up better then the dutch and give you a better seam. After the show is struck a knife can quickly take off the left over dope. Seams in flats can drive you up the wall. Build the flats nice and square to begin with and that will make your life easier.
If you are already dutching, I would move to joint compound or scenic dope. It will clean up better then the dutch and give you a better seam. After the show is struck a knife can quickly take off the left over dope. Seams in flats can drive you up the wall. Build the flats nice and square to begin with and that will make your life easier.
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KeepOnTruckin
Member
As above, take joint compound/spackle and spread it over each seam. Let dry, sand slightly if needed and paint
< i'm going to send a pm to the Mrs. and ask her to slap you>If they are muslin flats dutchman or masking tape really is your best friend. If they are luan covered Broadways then I reall prefer to use Painters acrylic - latex caulk. I've found, over the years that it's great especially if you are building and finishing in a shop then moving the set to the theater. ust take a mat knife to the seam, slice it and then when you get to the theater they tend to go righ back together. Using an 1/8" round-over bit on the edges of luan flats can reall help too. It tends to give you a nice valley to fill, just like on drywall.
Cashwalker
Member
Does drywall compound really come off that easily from luan-covered flats? I would think that the compound would stick itself real well into the nooks and crannies of the wood, and it would never come off completely. Maybe wrapping the corner in Masking tape would help provide a release?
I have a mostly static structure, swapping only a few 4x8 panels each show. Like a blank swaps for a door, or a door swaps for a window, or becomes a blank, etc. I've been using masking tape for years, but have just ignored the wrinkles that develop when painted.
I have a mostly static structure, swapping only a few 4x8 panels each show. Like a blank swaps for a door, or a door swaps for a window, or becomes a blank, etc. I've been using masking tape for years, but have just ignored the wrinkles that develop when painted.
If they are muslin flats dutchman or masking tape really is your best friend. If they are luan covered Broadways then I reall prefer to use Painters acrylic - latex caulk. I've found, over the years that it's great especially if you are building and finishing in a shop then moving the set to the theater. ust take a mat knife to the seam, slice it and then when you get to the theater they tend to go righ back together. Using an 1/8" round-over bit on the edges of luan flats can reall help too. It tends to give you a nice valley to fill, just like on drywall.
One might wonder why I no longer teach...
Caulk is a great way to go if you have clean seams. I try to save the heavy stuff for the big gaps. As said before, with muslin flats you get what you get.
Really though, the best way to get rid of seams is to build them into the design. If you are going to have a piece break, have something to take up the crack, such as a trim piece or a paint detail. This does not build itself into stock scenery all that well, but it is the way to do things if you are building to keep the show or to tour the show. Having vertical trim every 4' does tend to make things worse, but if the designer includes break lines in their design, it tends to make life a bit easier and allows the show to look good every time it goes up.
As for seams in a single flat I prefer Bondo or a similar body filler compound. When I am building a flat over 10' tall and I need to hide a horzontal seam, or a vertical seam in a flat wider that 4' < or 5' if you can get luan of that width, it's available in 5' widths some places> Then I prefer to take a 4" grinder with a "flapper" disc in it and cut a valley right over the top of the seam. Then I go back over the seam with Bondo. Again this process is similar to doing real Drywall as you are filling a valley created by the meeting of two seperate pieces.
Using Bondo in a scene shop is not without issues you need good air flow for proper ventalation, you must use dust masks and the resulting seam is much smoother that the surrounding luan material which will make it visible if you don't take the time to at least quick sand the rest of the flat.
Using Bondo in a scene shop is not without issues you need good air flow for proper ventalation, you must use dust masks and the resulting seam is much smoother that the surrounding luan material which will make it visible if you don't take the time to at least quick sand the rest of the flat.
There is one other option which is what we do at Music Theater of Wichita. It costs a lot, but it looks great and paints even better. Cover the entire flat with muslin. We cover everything with the same fabric we build drops with, so its very wide. I want to say its 12' wide. Its expensive, but it will cover everything. We also find that it holds up better on the road.
So in case you are wondering.... we build 1x1 steel flats, cover that with 1/4" luan, then muz the whole thing. Yes, we soft cover our hard cover flats....
So in case you are wondering.... we build 1x1 steel flats, cover that with 1/4" luan, then muz the whole thing. Yes, we soft cover our hard cover flats....
kicknargel
Well-Known Member
I'm glad to see someone else uses the "valley" technique. To avoid the health worries with Bondo, we developed this technique: We make a valley as described. The we squirt some wood glue down the seam to really lock it together. Then a coat of water putty, sand as needed, and a skim coat of drywall mud. You can really hide a seam 100%.
Nicholas Kargel
You Want What? Productions INC
scenic design and construction in Denver, CO
www.youwantwhatproductions.com
DannyDepac
Member
kicknargel
Well-Known Member
Some just tape the seam and paint over it. Others will then put a skim coat of drywall joint compound over the tape, let it dry and sand it, feathering it down to the lauan. Be careful - some masking tapes will take on water from the paint and wrinkle. Some prefer gaffers tape to masking tape, although it's thicker and shows a little more.
Charles Heetbrink
Member
How about using drywall joint tape instead of masking or gaffer's tape? Will it be removable after 3/4 weeks on stage? And what brand and width masking tape that will not wrinkle/pucker/shrink is being used?
Somethings going to have to hold that tape in place. Drywall tape doesn't traditionally, have any adhesive. ( except the fiberglass kind) And once you use something that thick you're right back to where you started as far as needing to cover mask and feather the seam and tape. The idea behind masking tape is that is is so thin that it tends to disappear.
Charles Heetbrink
Member
Thanks John.
Charles Heetbrink
Member
Debra P. Holmes
Member
Reading your thoughtful suggestions, THANK Y'ALL!!!
