Gripple Vs Verlock for hanging a screen

GBtimex

Member
To my beloved Riggers,

I am in need of your advice. In my theatre we often hang 2 screens for video. They are Da-Light brand 11' X 19' Fast Fold screens and the shipping weight is 187 pounds.

We have been hanging them on 2 1/8" cable anchored up in the ceiling. At the moment we cannot afford a motor to raise and lower these at the push of a button. Instead we must set up the screens and hold them in the air while I connect a shackle + sling to the cables which are set to a certin length by making loop with wire nuts (and by NOT saddling a dead horse).

This isn't a good system because: one if you need to change the height it's a major pain, set up takes too **** long and I have had trouble creating repeatable looks once we change back to the normal working height.

A union buddy of mine suggested I swap them out for Verlocks and be done with them. I looked into that but also came across Gripple and their hardware. Both claim that they can help me. Both say they can hold well above the weight I need. Gripple has a 5:1 safety ratio (still waiting to hear back from Verlock). Both are in my price range.

So my question is this:

Given the needs of my theatre what would be better to get Verlock, Gripple or is there another solution?

These screens are NOT over and audience and come up and down at least 50 times a year. Until we can afford to have a motorized system I have to do this. Can someone point me in the right direction?

Thanks GBTimex
 
Gripples are not very useful after half a dozen uses. They tend to wear down. Go with something like Ball Gliders (you can get them from peak trading) or verlocks.

Regards,
Ethan
 
I've never had a problem with gripples but I take these other guys word as law when it comes to rigging. Over Audience heads or Actor/dancer/performers heads makes no difference, it's still gotta be safe.
 
Is the shipping weight of this thing with the base? That tends to be the majority of the weight of any projection screen. If you are hanging it, none of that leg weight goes in the air. Even the trussed screens don't weight that much. That being said, have you considered two good ropes and a few sheaves? If its a situation that you are putting up and pulling down the screens often, you can leave the sheaves and the rope w/ a weight in the air. Then you can drop the lines in, take it to height, and then just tie off the operating lines. This is how we hang IMAG screens in the house pretty regularly. You need a good anchor to tie off to, but its quick, you get precision, and you don't have to go to height every time you want to change a trim.
 
To add to what Kyle said, you can add sandbags to the lines to counterweight. You don't necessarily need to go to the full weight of the screen (and you wouldn't want to for when it isn't hung because you would need that same amount of weight plus some on the other end to keep the mounting points from going SWOOSH into the sheaves). By taking half the weight, or the amount to bring it to about 85 pounds that needs to be moved by the operator, it should make things doable without too much effort, even for one person, and not require too big of a bag when it isn't hung.
 
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Is the shipping weight of this thing with the base? That tends to be the majority of the weight of any projection screen. If you are hanging it, none of that leg weight goes in the air. Even the trussed screens don't weight that much. That being said, have you considered two good ropes and a few sheaves? If its a situation that you are putting up and pulling down the screens often, you can leave the sheaves and the rope w/ a weight in the air. Then you can drop the lines in, take it to height, and then just tie off the operating lines. This is how we hang IMAG screens in the house pretty regularly. You need a good anchor to tie off to, but its quick, you get precision, and you don't have to go to height every time you want to change a trim.


The shipping weight does include the base but I couldn't find a spec for it without the base included. The SWL for the hardware I am looking at usually ends with the number ending with some multiple of 50. I just wanted to be exact when I asked the question.

As for the ropes and sheaves; I thought about that when I first started this project. Trouble with that solution is that my house is on the old side and the location for these screens will not allow that. I love that thought and spent about 3 hours trying to figure out a way to do just that. My long term goal is to hang a pair curtains on both sides of my theatre and have a motor raise and lower the screens behind it. This would create a place to hide the screens when they are not in use and save a ton of time on set up. We shall what I get when (and if) the money comes in.

Thanks,

GBTimex
 
How much distance is there between the rigging point and the top of the screen. I hang screens all the time doing corperate shows and most will allow a 5/8 shackle to slide over the top frame. Then you can just use off the shelf rigging to complete the hang. Also is it possible to set temperary ropes to raise the screen while you rig it. Building with Crosbys in the air is tough plus it is less than exact.
 
I have used both, but I find that the Gripple is harder to work with, particularly if the load is close to it's capacity or it has been in place for any length of time. The release is harder to use than th eVerlock.
We use the cable ball slider from several mfgrs. It is easier to release and re-trim. VER makes a good product. The have three sizes. We use them for adjustable hanging situations with the ring up or down depending on need.
I only wish there were a version rated for more than 500 pounds.
 

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