Currently I am using 5 set of 3 alrman
cyc lights. Then on
ground row I am using 15 Chauvet color pix. I was wanting to move the
cyc lights as flood lights, move the
LED on the top and these lights on
ground row
Look like they are in decent shape and quality. Never seen that brand of
cyc before, but not really my market.
Asbestos if there is most likely gone (assuming what was inside was removed during re-wiring, or it’s post use of that type of wiring.)
I would think the
hardware cloth was installed more to help support the
gel than to protect against shattered lamps. It being a
cyc light, not sure if I have seen any
cyc lights with protection. Is the
hardware cloth a good thing? Assuming that it is in front of the
gel, it might not hurt in that any saturated
gel will burn
thru at the center first anyway. Probably just fine to be there.
The
RSC lamp sockets while standard on this type of
fixture from it’s period (above) will give you your most trouble. A
bit of arching and its difficult to properly clean - but can be done well as long as you keep up on it and don’t allow perfectly good lamps to be installed into a bad
base, or swap lamps between bases in causing problems to other sockets.
Lamps are cheap to
stock and available from 300w
thru 1Kw, I would use frosted for them and GE still makes some HIR lower wattage high output lamps that even if
clear are a good bang for your buck.
Were I to buy them, I would (as above) have them inspected by a qualified lighting shop or university
level TD/ME type with experience with doing such things. No problems with the Kliegl brand even later in their history - very decent to good quality and way better than something
Colortran similar. Leave the non-feed
thru alone as three
circuit at 500w doesn’t allow for another feed
thru fixture on a
dimmer - normally it’s six
cell cycs as a note.
If your
trim height is not a lot in going 300w, or should you want to make them 6-cell
cyc’s - as probably easy to do, than go ahead and re-install the feed
thru.
Main things to be concerned about is: If there is new whips, but old
asbestos inside - doubtful given the approximate date and re-wiring with removal of feed
thru listed. Next is the lamp sockets - their condition. As with the lamps that you would probably be best off expecting to replace, I would budget for replacement sockets, time and parts for doing so. Easily done and dependant on which type of lamp
socket is needed, your theatrical supply shop or even electrical supply shop can get them for you.
There is other brands for such lamp sockets also, but the main problem will be if the body of the
socket is in front of it’s mounting flange and towards the lamp, or behind it’s mounting. Expect retail value of like $15.00 per set or each... I forget. So like the price of a lamp in re-socketing at least half if not all, than also fresh lamp in not re-using an old lamp with a new
socket.
Once done properly, should work great as long as you stay up on inspecting the lamps with each replacement for a bad
socket. Can fix above sockets in making like new, but if buying new/used, better off starting with new and later having to worry about if to clean or replace the
socket. Some old sockets - you have a hot and a neural side of the lamp... so half the sockets could be fine but could also have spring tension / age problems. Your choice on what to replace.
Ah’ I miss doing a in-line high temp. solder splice, it’s like art to do... Cut your wires and use high temperature
butt splices to mount new lamp
base whips to existing
wire, than wrap in 3M [HASHTAG]#23[/HASHTAG] high-temperature electrical tape.
