Platforms with Marquee Lights?

[TechGeek]

Hey all,
I'm doing work at a theater this summer and we are doing Oh What A Night! it's a tribute to Frankie Valli and the Four Seasons... I was thinking of maybe putting some nice platforms with those built-in marquee lights around the side to add to the show... I don't know if there's a special name for these so if there is please say so!

I've seen these platforms all over and would like to know how the hell they do them in such a way that people aren't shattering bulbs all over the stage and slicing their ankles open.

I also am not sure of what sockets and such to use... wiring is no problem for me, I know basic electrical wiring and have done it. I was thinking of just using these (GE Medium Base Keyless White Porcelain Lampholder-18304 at The Home Depot painted black or these (Leviton Weatherproof Socket - Black-R60-00055-000 at The Home Depot but I don't know how to mount the damn things. Please Help!

Please excuse all spelling errors.. it's almost 2am here.

 

[BillConnerFASTC]

The photos looks as if the lamps are in the platform, behind a cutout or opening, and not on the surface projecting out. Specially framed platform, hole saw, and wiremold inside platform.

 

[TechGeek]

The photos looks as if the lamps are in the platform, behind a cutout or opening, and not on the surface projecting out. Specially framed platform, hole saw, and wiremold inside platform.

So is it something a rookie carpenter shouldn't try? Can I but these pre built somewhere or a kit?

 

[BillConnerFASTC]

Well I'm not sure I read photo correctly but no, I don't think it especially hard. Maybe if you are working with stock platforms you just build a narrow one for the DS edge - say 8-10" X 8' - of 1 X 6 and hole saw 2 1/2" holes ever 12 " or so in one long side, and line up sockets and lamps on inside of framing opposite the holes. Kind of simple. Lots of variations to this concept.

 

[Amiers]

Those look like they are inlaid and have rondels in the front, it's definitely a challenge but not hard. If you are gonna mimic that photo I would face the platform with 1/4" ply and set your legs back the length of the socket and lamp and space them according to how many lights you want then lay your glass in the holes you cut on the ply. I can see it in my head but I don't know if it reflection words. This will be time consuming but would look cool.

 

[FatherMurphy]

I've done a lot of marquee chasers for scenery using christmas light socket strings, Christmas Lights : Rope Light : LED Christmas Lighting : Novelty Lights Inc is one good source. Using premade strings will save you hours and hours of wiring.

For exposed bulbs I've found that beltsanding an 1/8" or so off the socket allows you to trap 1/4" luan between the socket and the bulb envelope, holding everything secure without fasteners. An alternate method would be to hole saw the facing slightly smaller than a bulb, and figure out a way to hold the bulb tight to the hole from the backside - hot melt glue comes to mind as a low-budget temporary solution (short durations of chasing lamps shouldn't create much heat).

 

[BillConnerFASTC]

I'm glad there are not any photos of how I did something like this 40 or so years ago. Think it was festoon sockets and A19s in hole saw holes all held in place with staples - the kind telco guys use or use to for wiring extensions - on the back. Worked great - all 2000+ lamps.​

 

[Les]

The sockets you referenced really can't be mounted. If possible, I'd go with a keyless "garage" socket on a 4" junction box (picture below). However, as noted earlier, going pre-wired using beltlights would be much easier.



Belt lights:

 

[TechGeek]

Hmmm... I'm considering this project again now that my theatre will lay empty for the next 8 months.

I'm going to build the platforms standard size, 4'x8' and either use belt light along the front or festoons ran through the inside and drilling holes every 3" - 6", because if I use 3 stringers that are on 12" centers and they are offset that would make sense? And then just have it held in place by the lamp and tacked on the back so the wires are attached to the platform.

I'm thinking of just sitting the platforms on the stage deck and them layering them by just stacking them on top of each other and use a corner bracket on the sides to keep them in place.

What are your thoughts?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[JD]

You might want to look at the type of marquee lights used on carnival rides. You can get the LED version with clear globes. You can also get them in low voltage versions. This would eliminate the glass breaking and electrical safety issues. http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/amusement-equipment-rides-e14-e10-led_759287104.html

 

[porkchop]

If you can find an option than's not price prohibitive I'd try to find lover voltage lamps. I built some not huge marquees out of C7 Christmas lights back in the day and not only did we need a 50A dimmer to feed the thing but you also had to stand back when it was at full because of the amount of heat they put out.

 

[TechGeek]

Yeah, I'm defiantly probably not putting them at full.

I'm thinking like 10w globes or I'm actually looking at the Chauvet Nexis 4x1 but probably not them but a similar product that's smaller.

I don't really like the carnival style with how it looks but it is an option.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[ship]

The photos looks as if the lamps are in the platform, behind a cutout or opening, and not on the surface projecting out. Specially framed platform, hole saw, and wiremold inside platform.

Ah' "Golf Ball Lights", as per a rock star or two that I made some for at one point or a few others who were literally were doing so in their free time I'm told with the lamps. (Different show though.) In general it's bad practice to have wood exposed to lamp area. This in a structural way for a platform and a general way for sparks potential.

Assuming the production triad is established... design concept is there but not known which you want stair treads or platform edges, and we have eight months to build, what's the budget, and while the stringer socket has viability, neither will have been used or be best.

And yes stop any builds you are doing (sorry in all above replies.)

What you are showing in photos is risers with lamps/reflectors or reflector lamps in the sockets not marquee lights that are normally placed along the edges of the platforms - thus the concept of some rock star with a golf club to the 2" globe lamps.

If this production to be lighting the risers to stairs instead of framing the outer edges of platforms as per a proper marquee light, let's start over if we can in posts and concept. The marquee LED light concepts above have some merit but I don't think are all there yet in getting it done.

Start over if this concept is for the risers with say aluminum plate for that material, or if not some 1/4" material of wood treated for fire. Wiremold good perhaps in channel if rear mounted lamp sockets to the channel w/o cover and say a R' or PAR lamp mounted to lamp socket cleat bases perhaps. Have to check the bench focus length of the lamps once in the socket to determine if such sockets mounted to wiremold will give the sufficient length for such lamps.

Assuming various circuits, that within the wiremold or made channel makes for a lot of expense in high temp. wiring between circuits going between the lamps. Other lamp sockets made for similar purposes would allow for the wiring to be outside the wiremold spacing persay if we are talking the lamps are on the risers. But than we are with say type MTW wire and lots of support.

Initial thughts in were I building it, slow down and a few more things to plan and a few other types of lamp socket I might look into. Start with budget and lamp wanted in filling in the blanks.

 

[TechGeek]

Hmmm, ok....

Don't have the lamp touching the wood - check, defiantly won't do that

Build some sort of lip to go over the lamps if they come out of the platform surface - ok, that will be interesting to do

I am stilling looking into different sockets and ways.. I'll probably do a surface mounted socket then and pull the wiring through the back and cover it with electrical tape as a precaution... I made a marquee with A-style sockets before and hand wired it which was a pain but it's worth it.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[ship]

Starting over perhaps and sorry. Not about lamps touching wood, about heat from lamps exposed to non-shielded wood.
Lamps on the risers or treads? If on the risers and as above in you doing a marquee before, than it's a question of recessing the lamps with marquee style lamp sockets, than providing the facing and reflectors as needed dependant on the lamps.


"Build some sort of lip to go over the lamps if they come out of the platform surface - ok, that will be interesting to do" Are we talking risers per the photo that could be further recessed or mounting lamps on the platforms? Sorry I didn't understand in attempting to help.

"I am stilling looking into different sockets and ways.. I'll probably do a surface mounted socket then and pull the wiring through the back and cover it with electrical tape as a precaution... I made a marquee with A-style sockets before and hand wired it which was a pain but it's worth it." This as opposed to a rear mounted maruee type socket for wiring and mount where all the wiring is behind the reflector for the heat source. Again, only trying to help and electrical tape is probably a very bad solution for protection against heat or vibration. Sounds like we have a bad vibe going here... I won't post again for advice. PM me if wanted further advice in one might say I do this in part for a living and have for about 15 years now.

 

[Les]

If hand wiring, it's probably best to wire it all through flexible conduit and 4" junction boxes with porcelain "keyless" sockets. I have some old aluminum striplight reflectors if you want them - they hold 5 5/8" roundels and I have lots of those available too, colored and clear, stippled and non-stippled. The stippled clear roundels would probably give you the look you're after but I will have to check my stock. I'm not sure how that could be mounted to the keyless socket. They're designed to mate up to the Leviton 9885 socket, but it would take a lot of metal work to make those surface-mounted sockets work and be compliant.

If using a roundel reflector in front of a keyless socket, you'd probably want to build an independent bracket for it. That would be easiest. You could possibly also do low wattage Par or R-shaped lamps, but you'd want to heat shield any exposed wood. At least that would do away with the external reflector. Come to think of it, R30's or Par 20's might be the ticket but by the time you buy all the conduit/fittings, you're in the Par 16 eBay price range ($20/fixture, I think).

 

[gafftapegreenia]

The bare lightbulb marquee look is one that is as striking as it is expensive. There is a reason most people resort to using strings of C7 or C9 holiday lights. The cost of those porcelain sockets add up fast!!

I'll try to describe what I've seen quite often in non-touring applications. Instead of using keyless porcelain lamp holders on J boxes, or a surface mount porcelain socket, rubber pigtails or keyless phenolic pigtails are used. A hole of appropriate size is made with a hole saw or Forstner bit, and the socket installed in that hole. Then each pigtail is wired to the main circuit wires with Scotchlock connectors. All this wiring is contained in a fireproof trough under the platform. Note that this example is not intended as a how-to but rather to illustrated one method.

As has been mentioned, strip lights, be they R40, MR16 or what have you are a fast and easy way to accomplish the look, especially if you have a pile sitting around waiting for use.
Also, just for the sake of knowledge, the typical household A lamp has a Medium screw base socket, size E26 in the USA or E27 in Europe. You can also get your lamps coated in a rubber safety dip, which is great if your designer can handle the frosted look.

 

[kicknargel]

Also, consider the structure of the platform. I honestly can't follow a lot of this thread, due to conflicting terminology, attempts to use 1000 words instead of 1 picture, etc. So maybe this has nothing to do with the current plan, but: if you drill holes through the framing of a platform it becomes less strong. The bigger the holes, the more strength you lose. If you're drilling holes big enough for a socket or bulb neck, you should not do it in the structural framing of the platform, but some sort of non-structual facing.

 

[BillConnerFASTC]

While it seems simpler and more efficient to add a nonstructural "side car" to the edge of the platform, you can cut a surprising amount of the framing away - not 4" holes in 5.5" deep framing but 1.5" holes not too close along the center should be no problem. You do need to have a good basis of understanding of basic structures to plan this but I could see 1.5" holes 6" on center in a 2x6 not being a problem.

 

[TechGeek]

Also, consider the structure of the platform. I honestly can't follow a lot of this thread, due to conflicting terminology, attempts to use 1000 words instead of 1 picture, etc. So maybe this has nothing to do with the current plan, but: if you drill holes through the framing of a platform it becomes less strong. The bigger the holes, the more strength you lose. If you're drilling holes big enough for a socket or bulb neck, you should not do it in the structural framing of the platform, but some sort of non-structual facing.

Ok, I think a light just went off in my head! It's hard to explain so I'll make a quick sketch and post it


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk