Recommendations for pneumatic staplers and nailers

[Amanda]

We are continuing to outfit our shop- which looks all nice and new, but is missing some key basics. Out set shop will really only be putting out 2-3 shows in the drama department each year. What would you recommend in terms of basic pneumatic tools? We have an air compressor and I would like my crews to be able to use a wide variety of tools. Do I need both a wide and narrow crown? What about nail guns?

Thanks!

 

[kicknargel]

My top choices:

Narrow crown: putting skin on flats, etc. Get a couple.
Medium crown: framing flats (some people do this with narrow as well)
brad gun: great for trim work
upholstery tackers: all kinds of fabric work

Nice but less critical:
framing nailer (can build platforms with ring shank nails or studwalls with regular but very hard to disassemble)
T-nailer: attaching wood to steel

Have never had need of:
Wide crown

 

[microstar]

I would discourage the purchase/use of a framing nailer for the above reasons and it is far too dangerous a tool, especially if these are high school students. If you use screws, everything comes apart and they are reusable.

 

[BillConnerFASTC]

If you use screws for structural framing, you better be sure the screws are rated. Generally, most screws you'd find and could afford are much less strong than the equivalent nails. Sets are required to meet building codes and building codes have the requirements for fasteners.

 

[microstar]

So I guess pozidrive deck screws wouldn't qualify?

 

[BillConnerFASTC]

So I guess pozidrive deck screws wouldn't qualify?

I don't know their shear strength, but it is not readily apparent that fasteners to hold down a plank is also designed to hold framing members in shear. Its in the codes, and most simply in the International Residential Code, which has prescriptive requirements - how many nails of what size - versus performance criteria which requires engineeting to satisfy.

The initial reference was to just "screws" and I think we know that many folks hear don't have the resources to buy other than the least expensive Korea forged drywall screw.

 

[theatricalmatt]

Typically I use nails for things I don't want disassembled -- platforms, or the framing of flats. Then component pieces are assembled with screws. This way, I don't find that a Helpful Freshman has disassembled the entire studwall and platform into individual components, but rather can only separate it into studwall sections and platforms, which have their own storage spots.

I don't think the safety considerations for a framing nailer are greater than those for a compound miter saw or a table saw; which is to say, there's considerable safety involved, but at a level high school students should be able to be responsible toward.

 

[StradivariusBone]

For joist hangers and the like the big box stores do sell screws that are recommended for use with that kind of hardware, apparently replacing the use of nails in that application. I'm guessing since the company that makes them sells them together that they've done the research and it is up to code.

I've found that Grip-Rite makes an external deck screw that uses a T-25 bit that works incredibly well in set construction. It's very easy to remove and good for younger carps to learn how to drive. Unfortunately, I can't find any shear data for these fasteners, but I would wager that it is at least well enough ahead of the standard drywall screw. Anytime we can and it makes sense we put a couple carriage bolts in place.

As far as a framing nailer goes, I've seen them drive a nail through a 2x4, hit something and then bend the driven nail back up through the 2x4. It's a lot of horsepower and when it goes south, it goes south quickly and without any warning. PPE is a definite. I've seen my brad nailer do the same thing too. I'd posit that pneumatic nailers should be treated with the same reverence as a loaded hand gun or a ramset. That being said, with the proper training and PPE, it can be safely used just like a table saw, or miter saw, or router, or what all.

 

[robartsd]

That being said, with the proper training and PPE, it can be safely used just like a table saw, or miter saw, or router, or what all.

What PPE (in addition to eye protection) would you recommend for pneumatic nailers?

 

[StradivariusBone]

What PPE (in addition to eye protection) would you recommend for pneumatic nailers?

Safety shoes, which help protect workers’ toes from nail gun injuries, are typically required by OSHA on residential construction sites. In addition, employers should provide, at no cost to employees, the following protective equipment for workers using nail guns:
• Hard hats
• High Impact eye protection – safety glasses or goggles marked ANSI Z87.1
• Hearing protection – either earplugs or earmuffs

https://www.osha.gov/Publications/NailgunFinal_508_02_optimized.pdf

 

[gafftapegreenia]

If I had the funds, I would get
-16 gauge finish nailer
-18 gauge brad nailer
-Narrow crown stapler
-Medium crown stapler
-upholstery stapler

I really have no need anymore for wide crown staplers. I used to like them for building frames with the 1x on face, but now I have access to a corrugated stapler for that purpose, and it is much, much better. However its not an essential tool as I've only had need for it maybe two times in the last 8 months.

Now, as for screws, there are screws rated for the same structural applications as nails. Deck screws and cabinet screws are certainly much tougher and ductile than drywall screws, and even not all drywall screws are equal (Go compare a Grip-Rite from Home Depot to a Blue Hawk from Lowes). However, we all know that hundreds of theatres (even well known regional stages, with TD's from the big schools) use regular [HASHTAG]#7[/HASHTAG] drywall screws for their construction. While its certainly not best practice, the risks can be mitigated by good structural design. The more you can avoid using screws in sheer, the better off you are. Most of the failures I've seen of screws are caused by poor structural design and implementation. Lets talk, for instance, your typical 4'x8' platform, framed in 2x4 and lidded with 3/4" ply. Most of the platforms I have seen in poor condition were not built well to begin with. Too few screws, no glue, often overloaded, under supported, and toggles on greater than 24" centers, sometimes even with just one support down the middle. Obviously these platforms are suffering from a number of issues, and the use of drywall screws is often the least of them. Also, I cannot tell you the number of stock platforms built with nails that I've had to rehab in a pinch using screws. In my experiences, a nail will bend before a screw will shear, and I can think of numerous moments of sagging and loose platforms built with nails. Of course, I can also think of platforms I've dealt with that looked fine but had broken screws. Regardless of fastener used, I am one of those people that will always prefer to construct my 2x4 frames for platforms with three fasteners per joint. I just don't have enough good experiences to ever trust two fasteners per joint - I think its lazy and cheap. Especially when using drywall screws, I think three fasteners just adds a little bit more shear strength, but I might just be wishing and dreaming on that one. Perhaps all of this is why I have seen many shops seem to take a mixed fastener approach to building their 4x8 platforms. A screw in the middle of the 2x4 joint to keep it tight, two nails on either side to give it strength, and a liberal amount of glue to bring it all home.

So, my ears are open, I just wanted to present my experiences and my thoughts. Usually I keep quiet in these best practice vs. typical practice threads, but I want to get into this one.

 

[StradivariusBone]

I'm interested in the 2 vs 3 fastener idea on joining 2x4's. I feel like 3 screws pushes the risk of splitting the ends and I've heard (anecdotally) that more screws will weaken the joint. But I've also known people to swear by the method gafftapegreenia describes since a screw for all intents and purposes really is a type of clamp and a nail driven straight will not hold as well.

 

[gafftapegreenia]

I'm interested in the 2 vs 3 fastener idea on joining 2x4's. I feel like 3 screws pushes the risk of splitting the ends and I've heard (anecdotally) that more screws will weaken the joint. But I've also known people to swear by the method gafftapegreenia describes since a screw for all intents and purposes really is a type of clamp and a nail driven straight will not hold as well.

I should add that I pre-drill almost everything these days, and always if it's near the end grain. Especially in 1x, its imperative to pre drill to avoid splitting.

 

[kicknargel]

I forgot about a corrugated stapler. We got one recently, and it comes in handy often. A luxury item to be sure.

On screws vs. nails let me first say that we don't use drywall screws; we use solid steel McFeeley's screws. That said, I don't know how they compare in strength or code compliance to nails. What I was taught (in the on-the-job manner, not engineering school) was that the screw is pulling the two pieces of wood together and the friction between the faces of the wood is what is resisting the sheer force more so than the fastener itself. So the screw is in tension, keeping the faces of the wood tight. Instinctively a screw would do that more than a nail. I'd be curious to hear an engineer's take on that.

 

[robartsd]

I pulled out the 2005 NDS for Wood Design from when I was in engineering school to look up what it said about fasteners. The commentary in it noted that the ANSI standard for "wood screws" was dimesional only, so the designer is responsible for specifing that the metal the screw is made of has sufficent strength properties. Certainly screws can be made from metal that is strong enough that the strength of the wood governs the design strength of the connection. I imagine that most screws marketed as wood screws (including deck screws) are sufficent, whereas most screws marketed as drywall screws are not - the question of course is how can you be sure.

A major advantage of nails in shear is that their ability to pull out slightly allows more ductility in the connection. As the shear limit of a nailed connection is reached, the nail is likely to bend at the shear plane and continue to provide some strength while the connection undergoes some noticeable deflection. Many screwed connections exhibit brittle shear failure before significant deflection occurs.

@BillConnerASTC mentioned prescriptive codes requiring nails. If the applicable code really does prescripe nails, then it may be very difficult to convince an AHJ that screws are adequate unless the entire assembly was designed and stamped by an engineer.