Conventional Fixtures Relamping/avoiding fingerprints on Lamps

gafftaper

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In the glove topic below there was a discussion on lamps that get burned out because of fingerprints. I have a cheap solution that worked great for me. Go to your local drug store and get a box of alcohol wipes. Those little ones they use on your skin before you get a shot or blood draw. They come individually wrapped, in boxes of 100 for only a buck or two. When I had my high school students change lamps I always required them to wipe the lamp before they put the instrument back together. It worked great for four years. I could let the clumsiest kid in class change a lamp and never had a problem.
 
Grainger also sells them, otherwise people frequently save up the packets that come with moving light lamps for use on halogen lamps later. A spray bottle of denatured alcohol and a lint free towelette or lens cleaning tissue also work well but don't work so well atop a ladder. Perhaps a bottle and tissues while in the shop, and the packets in the pocket while on a ladder.

Amazed at how many people don't read the manual on either lamp or fixture for this recommendation. At very least and indeed very least, a packet of lens cleaning tissue would do wonders for ensuring lamps are clean. An alternative to this at least something method would be to deeply spray the lamp with the alcohol and let it drip. Neither would completly remove the oil or dirt but work some.

By the time one puts the cap on, the lamp is dry in already any chemical having evaporated. This no matter what method used.

Another note in changing lamps is to have a look at the pins of the lamp removed. If discolored, pitted etc. don't install the new lamp - the lamp base is potentially also bad and will quickly as if one touched the lamp, ruin the new lamp installed.

Having an extra lamp cap available to either pre-lamp than climb the ladder so one is not fumbling with removing a stuck lamp atop a ladder, or at least having it available to replace a questionable base will speed up changing time.
 
Depending upon the quality of the wipes, they can leave little fibres on the lamp. Not sure how essential it is to remove them but I always do with a lint free cloth, just in case.

My theory is that the lamp didn't come with them attached, so it could potentially shorten the life. Probably would fall off once the alcohol evaporated but I have never taken the time to see.

Could a fibre stuck to a lamp cause a focal hot spot?
 
I've never noticed any fibers with the medical style alcohol wipes I've used, but i'm sure that potential is there. The idea of using a spray bottle and a high quality lint free lens cleaning cloth would be a lot better, but as Ship said, it doesn't work so well on a ladder.

As for the concern about moisture, that alcohol evaporates so fast that it's practically dry before you can throw away the wipe. As long as you aren't trying to fire up the instrument within seconds of screwing the cap on, you're fine.
 
RiffRaff54 said:
i have a few pieces of a torn up sweat shirt that i use to change lamps if they dont have a plastic envelop

To physically change the lamp, you can use a tissue. It is more likely to be clean than something that has been lying around. Tissues can however leave pieces when wet, say with isopropyl alcohol.

Also, isopropyl alcohol is also known by the name Isopropanol.
 
Some lamps come in plastic. If they do I would advise handling the light opening the plastic on the end that connects with the fixture, then hold it on the plastic, plug it in and pull the plastic off. It isn't a substitute for cleaning the lamp off by any means, but it is a way to prevent fingerprints in the first place.
 
This topic would appear to be running simultaneously with another on the same topic that is located here.
 
We just got some 750 EHG lamps for our 360Qs. These are Ushios, and don't have the foam that comes with the Osram lamps we got in the past. How should I handle them to avoid getting skin oils on the glass?

If the lamp is touched, how would you clean it? I've heard of using rubbing alcohol, but I'm concerned about it being evaporating before turning the lamp on.
 
I have used the alcohol prep pads from the pharmacy, the ones that diabetics use. Cheap and convenient.
 
It doesn't have to be foam you could use a clean piece of paper or the cardboard box the lamp comes in. Really, so long as it's a clean object -- preferably not a sweaty pair of gloves or sleeve -- the lamp should be fine.
 
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If the lamp does get touched, a quick cleaning with rubbing alcohol and a clean cloth, Kleenex, etc has always served me well. Lots of people will even rub the lamp with their shirt tails (including me), but I don't recommend it since your shirt can be quite dirty and sweaty. That said, I've never had a lamp "pop" as a result. YMMV.
In replying to the 2006 thread, I have never had any issues with little fibers and highly doubt they would be an issue. They vaporize pretty effectively with the heat of the lamp.

Now, about those EHG's... That's a pretty archaic lamp to be using. Have you tried the GLA/GLC series?
 
Make sure it is 99% Alcohol as a lot of what one gets is on 75% the rest is water that slows down the evaporation
Also white cotten editor gloves are handy
 
Make sure it is 99% Alcohol as a lot of what one gets is on 75% the rest is water that slows down the evaporation

Actually the ones I have are 70% and they work just fine. It takes about 10 seconds to evaporate. It's the same pads diabetics buy to sanitize the area before their insulin shot. They are easily available at any drug store, they are individually wrapped and cost about $3 for 100-200 pads.
 
On behalf of all lamp manufacturers who are facing hard times with this shift to LED fixtures, we'd like to encourage you all to eat lots of greasy food like French fries and onion rings, and then do your re-lamping. Please do not clean your hands first, and make sure you touch the glass often. And don't clean it with alcohol wipes afterwards.

With the way lamp prices have been plunging ($13.00 HPLs? SERIOUSLY? They are EASILY worth $20 each!) the least you folks can do is to throw us a bone now and again by ruining perfectly good lamps far ahead of their avg. rated lifetimes. Harrumph!
 
Just saying, I still doubt that touching the envelope of a lamp can cause failures.... Coming from a touring rock and roll guy who's never used gloves to change lamps....

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Just saying, I still doubt that touching the envelope of a lamp can cause failures.... Coming from a touring rock and roll guy who's never used gloves to change lamps....

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Oh, it definitely can and does! No one says you have to use any protection for the lamp when changing one, but, depending on the fixture, it can be very difficult to not (accidentally) touch the envelope. You say you've never used gloves to change lamps, but do you wipe the lamp down with alcohol afterwards? If not, I have an experiment for you. Go ahead and wear gloves or use some other type of lamp protection for a while and see if maybe your frequency of lamp changes goes down. You might be surprised.

I'll admit to relamping a Source Four with out any protection, gloves or otherwise, but you can be sure I was very careful to not touch it and I still wiped it down with alcohol. However, I would also say that Source Fours are some of the easier fixtures to relamp.
 

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