Securing Scenery to a concrete floor?

[stolympiakos]

We have a concrete floor black box, and in the event I build a large set for it (which is more likely than unlikely), I'd like to be able to secure the scenery in some way. We build primarily from wood, and I've been told I can't drill into the concrete floor. Any thoughts? Scenery wouldn't be terribly high, but I just want to know thoughts on the best way to do this.

Thanks in advance everyone!

 

[balderson04]

If you can't drill into the floor, then construct (and design) the scenery so that the set is self-supporting, i.e., each piece supports its neighbour and the whole becomes a stable structure.

Otherwise, lots of stage weights on the support jacks.

Good luck.

David

 

[MarshallPope]

You could also build a raised deck to fasten to.

 

[jonliles]

Like MarshallPope, we built a raised deck. Added layers of homasote and baffles of fiber glass insulation for noise control. we even have it siting on rubber wedges so it is exactly on the floor. Very Quiet.

 

[JLNorthGA]

We have a concrete floor black box, and in the event I build a large set for it (which is more likely than unlikely), I'd like to be able to secure the scenery in some way. We build primarily from wood, and I've been told I can't drill into the concrete floor. Any thoughts? Scenery wouldn't be terribly high, but I just want to know thoughts on the best way to do this.

Thanks in advance everyone!

Like Balderson - I have used that sort of method. It is less expensive - but heavier on the design side - make your set so it will remain upright. Use stage weights or sand bags to weigh the set down and keep it steady. I've often put jacks in the back and laid sand bags across the bottom portion of the jacks.

As an example, I have made the set more or less contiguous from one side to the other. Shaping it like a trapezoid with the "bottom" open. I have jacks behind the set to stabilize it.

If if is a door farce with lots of slamming doors, it can be a problem (can we say the whole set moves?). Otherwise it works reasonably well.

 

[Footer]

One weird one that we did once in college... compression booms. Take two 1 1/2" schedule 40 threaded pipes, put them together using a coupler. Get them as tight as possible. You have to have a rigid grid to do this... cheeseboro off the top to the grid. The bottom needs to rest on the deck. Loosen the coupler a few turns. It should make the boom rigid to the deck. Keep in mind this puts a decent load on your floor AND your grid. You can then use this "boom" to attach your scenery to. It is not perfect, but it will hold up walls and such. Check to be sure your grid and your floor to ensure they can hold the extra load. With that though, tapcons holes can be repaired with bondo rather easily.

 

[Fountain Of Euph]

I have a beautiful hardwood deck in my space. We usually build our sets on prebuilt rolling platforms. This way they are stable and easy to do changes. As previously said sandbags and stageweights are your best friend. Footers idea is pretty good too.

Sent from Taptalk for Android, this was.