Seam allowance

[derekleffew]

I know the "standard" seam allowance is 5/8", but in costume class we were told to use a full 1". Now I'm not sure if this was for expandability, or to somehow compensate for our lack of sewing skills. I felt the 1" never worked very well, as it proved too bulky. What does everyone else use?

 

[soundman]

5/8" when sewing then surge it so it ends up being a bit closer to 1/2" On some seams we would have to trim the seam (inside curve I think was one of them) or it would end up too bilky to look nice in the end.

 

[Footer]

1" Always. 2" to 3" for a rental stock. 1" works because odds are that piece is going to go into stock and will need to be altered later for whatever you are doing. Last place I worked I believe they did 2" because of the show package thing.

 

[Dally]

At OU we did 1/2". Saves on fabric, and dealing with extra bulk. Rental stuff sometimes differed, but would be orignlaly a 1/2" and grow larger as it was taken in.

 

[DaveySimps]

We use 1" as a rule, but there are always exceptions to the rule as needed. Most of our stuff goes into stock to be reused / rented down the road.

~Dave

 

[gafftaper]

I was told 1" in the costume class I took... although with my skills

 

[cryptozoology]

I know the "standard" seam allowance is 5/8", but in costume class we were told to use a full 1". Now I'm not sure if this was for expandability, or to somehow compensate for our lack of sewing skills. I felt the 1" never worked very well, as it proved too bulky. What does everyone else use?

In all the costume shops I have worked in, we either use 1/2" or 1", depending on the project. Usually because the two allow the most possibility for taking in or letting out seams as needed.

 

[Grog12]

0" namely because I married a Costumer so I wouldn't have to do this kinda thing. She on the other hand uses...Well apparently it depends on what she's building...now that theres a costume section I imagine she may start showing up on this board.

 

[bobgaggle]

I'm taking basic costume construction right now and the book we're using by rebecca cunningham says 1/2" seam allowance

 

[Grog12]

I'm taking basic costume construction right now and the book we're using by rebecca cunningham says 1/2" seam allowance

Which is probably a good middle ground.

According to my CD wife one of the major factors is whether you're building it for stock or not. Stock costumes require a larger seam allowance as you never know who's going to wear it ine future.

 

[justjasen72]

Currently I use 1/2 in all of my construction. When I designed for the Ohio Light Opera, we used 1" on the sides and shoulders, to make it easier to alter the next time we used the costumes. I never had a problem with the 1" as a rule, I guess the "Bulk" is dependent on the fabric used in the garment and how it is constructed. I would often steam the seams and then using a rubber mallet, pound out any bulk.

 

[Kary Stowe]

If i am using a pattern... I stick with the 5/8 because I find that patterns work better if you cut them and stick with the recommended seam allowance and there are less adjustments needed. However if i am not using a pattern or are creating my own then i for sure go with 1" so that there is more room to "grow" later down the road.