Control/Dimming Sensor+ Non-Dim

DCATTechie

Active Member
Where can I buy a Non-Dim/Constant Power module for a Sensor+ inststallation rack so I can run some ML's? Is it as easy as pulling out the dimming module and popping in the new one? Will it work if I hook the power cable from the ML to the pigtail that corresponds to the Non-Dim module?

Thanks!
 
Any ETC dealer will be able to get you a module. Though I can't remember the module names off hand, there are two types of modules you can get. One, has a relay in it that is controlled via DMX. Tell that dimmer to go to 1% and it turns on, take it to zero it turns off. You can also get a pack that bypasses the rack completely and basically gives you a hot circuit, controlled by a breaker. These are pretty cheap and work great because you don't have to worry about a data/console issue causing your fixtures to go down.

If you use either of these options, you can power your movers off of your raceway, you just need an adapter.
 
See Contact ETC for a list of authorized dealers.

For Sensor and Sensor+ packs and racks, the choices are R20 modules (R stands for Relay) which provide for DMX control, or CC20 modules (CC stands for Constant Current) which are "always on" except by turning off the breaker, just like a wall convenience outlet. The CC20 modules are less expensive (one Internet source lists them for $152/each), and more readily available (in the rental market). [Note yet another type of Sensor module, the Air Flow module, (not to be abbreviated as AF, so as to be confused with Advanced Features) is an empty tray for use when a rack is not fully-populated, and has no electrical connections.]
 
Try eBay. A year or two ago I got some dimmer modules for $150 each. You might have to be patient though.

Something I did that makes life easier: I mounted a Neutrik double-female (passthrough) Ethercon connector on a vent module, and connected that to the back of the Sensor+ control module. That way I can connect a PC to the rack in an instant, instead of having to kill power to the entire hall so I can reach in to connect to the control module.
 
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Something I did that makes life easier: I mounted a Neutrik double-female (passthrough) Ethercon connector on a vent module, and connected that to the back of the Sensor+ control module. That way I can connect a PC to the rack in an instant, instead of having to kill power to the entire hall so I can reach in to connect to the control module.

DO NOT DO THIS UNLESS YOU ARE CERTIFIED BY ETC. Doing something like this can violate your warranty. Plus - you can be killed if you dig in to a rack and don't know what you are doing.

SO DO NOT DO THIS.
 
Something I did that makes life easier: I mounted a Neutrik double-female (passthrough) Ethercon connector on a vent module, and connected that to the back of the Sensor+ control module. That way I can connect a PC to the rack in an instant, instead of having to kill power to the entire hall so I can reach in to connect to the control module.

DO NOT DO THIS UNLESS YOU ARE CERTIFIED BY ETC. Doing something like this can violate your warranty. Plus - you can be killed if you dig in to a rack and don't know what you are doing.

SO DO NOT DO THIS.

I heartily agree with jmabray you shouldn't do this for many reasons. ETC makes a Snesor+ NetBox which is basically a hub in a box where every rack gets connected. If you don't have one, I am sure that you can get one. This will ensure that all the connections are safe, and you are using the right tool for the job. There are so many things that could go wrong by just adding user parts to your dimmer racks, so please DO NOT DO THIS.

Please note that I am in no way related to ETC and the views expressed are my own, given solely in the interest of safety.
 
Try eBay. A year or two ago I got some dimmer modules for $150 each. You might have to be patient though.

Something I did that makes life easier: I mounted a Neutrik double-female (passthrough) Ethercon connector on a vent module, and connected that to the back of the Sensor+ control module. That way I can connect a PC to the rack in an instant, instead of having to kill power to the entire hall so I can reach in to connect to the control module.

DO NOT DO THIS UNLESS YOU ARE CERTIFIED BY ETC. Doing something like this can violate your warranty. Plus - you can be killed if you dig in to a rack and don't know what you are doing.

SO DO NOT DO THIS.

I heartily agree with jmabray you shouldn't do this for many reasons. ETC makes a Snesor+ NetBox which is basically a hub in a box where every rack gets connected. If you don't have one, I am sure that you can get one. This will ensure that all the connections are safe, and you are using the right tool for the job. There are so many things that could go wrong by just adding user parts to your dimmer racks, so please DO NOT DO THIS.

Please note that I am in no way related to ETC and the views expressed are my own, given solely in the interest of safety.

Another consideration before modifying any piece of theatrical equipment. You may be voiding the UL Listing. This creates a whole host of other concerns which I, frankly, am not qualified to go into.
 
I dont know how we got so off topic by talking about the CEM's. I personally use the CC20 modules in installs. You are correct you just turn off the breakers and pull the D20 module out and pop in the CC20 module. I dont like using relay control because if you accidenlty turn off the power to the movers its not fun to wait for them to lamp back on again, especially when its in the middle of a show. Also the ability to turn off the movers by flipping off the breakers keeps people who you dont want playing with them from playing with them.
 
I dont know how we got so off topic by talking about the CEM's. I personally use the CC20 modules in installs. You are correct you just turn off the breakers and pull the D20 module out and pop in the CC20 module. I dont like using relay control because if you accidenlty turn off the power to the movers its not fun to wait for them to lamp back on again, especially when its in the middle of a show. Also the ability to turn off the movers by flipping off the breakers keeps people who you dont want playing with them from playing with them.

However, using a CC module make it impossible to do a hard reset from the board, you have to either go the the dimmers or the fixture to power cycle it. So if you dimmers and the fixture are not easy to access during a show it could be a real hassle.
 

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