Conventional Fixtures Cyc lights, very little space

Does anyone have recommendations for cyc lights that can produce somewhat even coverage despite being hung quite close to the cyc?

The cyc I'm attempting to light is not actually a cyc, but rather a wall with a painted background on it (this is in a museum, where my job is to repair things). Because of the configuration of the space, the fixtures can only hang, at most, four feet back from the wall (it's twelve feet high, and a ground row is not possible here).

There are in place now some rather ancient 3-cell Strand Codas (500W) which mostly do not work, but I suspect that they never really did the job, as they seem too widely (and unevenly) spaced to me. But, it does seem like the concept could work, if there were more fixtures, so the Coda II is one of the possibilities I'm looking at. It's an odd, asymmetrical space, so a perfectly even wash is not essential, but we do need to be able to do color changes across the whole wall without having obvious lines and dark spots.

Thanks!
 
Any multi-cell cyclight is going to exhibit some "scalloping" issues, if there's not enough throw distance for the cells/colors to blend.

Until LEDs, MR-16 Strips (MiniStrips™, ZipStrips) were usually used, often with linear diffusion, such as R104.

If budget allows, LED strips such as ColorBlaze, Pixeline, or Selador Series eliminate the scalloping problems. Figure maybe $500-$1000 per linear foot of area to be lighted.

I'd first try repairing your Strand Codas, spacing them as evenly and closely together as possible, and adding a frost, R100, in addition to the color.
 
I'd say LEDs are beyond our budget, given the unfortunately-too-large number of linear feet involved here (100+), so it sounds like adding additional Codas, and getting as many of the old ones running as possible, may be the best option. Thanks for your help!
 
One reoccuring theme you'll find around here is it's always a good idea to fix up your old gear before purchasing new and NEVER get rid of your old gear. In your case, fixing up your old gear, adding a few more fixtures, and using the right gel could easily solve your problem.

If you need to add some new cyc fixtures (besides Strand and Altman) be sure to check out the fixtures made by L&E and by Selecon. I have L&E "Broadcyc" lights and they are excellent and a good price. Get up there and measure exact horizontal distance they hang from the cyc, the width of the cyc, and the height of the cyc. Then call and talk to some manufacturer's sales reps about what fixtures they have that will best help your situation.
 
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Does anyone have recommendations for cyc lights that can produce somewhat even coverage despite being hung quite close to the cyc?


Thanks!

I have used the L&E MR16 Mini-Strips with great success for 25 years or so.

The configuration is as follows:

- White filled scrim, 30x50 ft.
- Cyc light electric at -2Ft downstage from the cyc, generally able to trim at about +32ft high
- 6 - MR16's, 3 circuit, 6ft, 30 lamp units, with 75watt flood lamps as the overhung unit
- 6 - MR16's, 3 circuit, 6ft, 30 lamp units, with 75watt spot lamps as the underhung unit
- All colors are either the Rosco linear diffusion series, R124,125,126,127, or another color with R104 added, as L to R diffusion.

Attached is a picture of the result.

Total cost is about $12,000

EDIT: File uploads not working, after 3 tries. It say's it is....

Steve Bailey
Brooklyn College
 
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Why not go a different direction all together.

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This 36" strip offers the output you need with a 45 degree beam spread, and would probably qualify for a government energy savings grant.

When you really look at the cost to operate per hour, the savings make it almost a no brainer.
 
were usually used, often with linear diffusion, such as R104.

I have a 50' wide stage, and I'm lighting the cyc with zip strips.
I'm somewhat inexperienced with gel application (Red Green colorblind doesn't help).
We currently the strips set up with RGBs.
Looking at the Rosco site, I wonder how drastic a difference the various frost gels (r100-r110) are. Essentially I would like the smoothest color mix - so would a more intense diffuse (106 or so) be worth it, or does it diminish intensity too much?
(I'm also assuming that the frost gels just double up on top of the color gel?)

Sorry for the frenetic phrasing of my questions, and thanks in advance for your help/interpretation :)

~Joe
 
Nothing wrong with an RBG set-up. I'd use either R120, 121, 122 (which is just color combined with R100), OR if I needed to spread in only one direction (usually L-R, but in some instances up-down) R124, 125, 126, which is color combined with R104. Amazed that no other manufacturer offers the primaries combined with diffusion.

I think you'll find that any diffusion heavier than R100/R104 eats too much light, although I have used R113+color where I had very little throw and 300R40/SP lamps.

Once again the mystery of "What happened to R123?" arises.:)
 
Once again the mystery of "What happened to R123?" arises.:)

If memory serves, R123 was a lighter amber then R127, thus I assume Rosco felt it wasn't needed. Possibly they sold very little in comparison to the others ?.

Steve B.
 

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