Yep, seen that mostly also with old strip lights also solder splices at times which is a really cool technique.
Required? Don't think I have ever read about such a thing and tough to do properly if that's the rule. On the other
hand I have seen some
Fresnel and other screw
base type fixtures soldered in addition to them strips including a strip I saw over the weekend.
Bit of a pain in removing solder so as to re-do the wiring on what's otherwise a servicable or resurfaced
base. Believe in last attemp 800F+ on at least a 50W
iron and a solder sucker worked better than the propane blow
torch and dripping if it helps. Old solder = real pain to remove but worth doing so.
No idea of if that's still the practice in doing such things, this in going back to tinned
wire Union connectors that work but if not done correctly are problematic. I don't do any such thing these days in re-using and re-wiring such fixtures. One huge caution is of if the screw can be removed from the
socket or not in potentially replacing it or how you deal with it. This and how you deal with the
wire into the screw
terminal if for a
cyc/boarder/X-Ray
etc. light which is
fed in parallel without cutting the
wire.
Specific to the strip/
cyc/boarder light situation where often the screw terminals are just feed
thru and easy/best perhaps to do so, more a question of if that
terminal screw can be removed without stripping it or not. If it can be removed, I might add a external tooth lock washer and bent washer under the head of the screw or it's longer/newer replacement and
call it a day in estimating this won't come loose. This if concerned, assuming the
lampholder is going to need service most likely before that screw if tight will come loose with expansion and contraction, and or I might check that tension in a few months to give it's final tension if this strip light say has traveled about the country in the back of a truck in bouncing about over an expansion and contraction concept. This re-checking especially if SF-2
wire used instead of the less stranded or settling TGGT
wire. After the first checking of that screw's tension.. probably fine. Overall concept being a washer if not a bent washer to
grip and tension the
wire so the teeth of the lock washer don't cut into the strands of the heat
wire and the lock washer grips a solid area.
Easier on a single termial
fed, just a high temp.
ring terminal or one cut to make fit into a non-removable screw, and ensuring it's insulated at the
crimp plus proper standoff and
insulation about that
crimp.
If screws cannot safely be removed, one cannot add the lock washer. On a
cyc type light, I have not run across that situation before. Debate about the values of locking down that screw and connection with solder verses expansion/contraction with the initial install and proper temperature in doing so. If the screws cannot be removed from the
lampholder, I might just tighten them than afer hours of use re-tighten than solder that joint the best I can with solder.
More prefer a mechanical joint but them solder splices or terminals do work well if done properly. This much less them solder joints when done right do work well one cannot otherwise question. Challenge say a 50W verses 75W
iron in getting the
terminal hot enough to do a proper solder connection and one that won't melt down or be cold solder. More a tinning thing if otherwise in question possibly. Hope it's not needed as I'm yet to see a
cyc light that had screw terminals which did not allow the screws to be removed.