Brand sometimes matters in that there is clearly two different mounting hole patterns for P-28s lamp sockets. If the Bryant
socket mentioned fits the
Colortran it should also fit the
Altman amongst other brands and it would also fit them. Otherwise it's not hard to re-mount a centered other mounting hole. Modern of what ever brand I do not remember have a different mounting hole size at the most important thing to be aware of.
Nice and well done set of tips that have only a few faults. First if the lamp
base is bad, the wiring by way of bad
base will probably also need to be cut back or replaced. Second, dependant on the type of
base which might be as part of micostar's post, some lamp sockets have wiring pre-attached to the lamp
socket, some don't. That could be important for say a 1KAF
Altman Fresnel - if the pre-crimped wires go to a high temp.
barrier strip. Honestly don't remember. Mostly the lamp
base will fit or if not easy to center and make fit no matter what brand or model for a
Fresnel. For a
Leko, at times a more small OD lamp
socket might be important, and for that reason I hold a reserve
stock of older smaller OD P-28s lamp sockets. Most won't need to worry about that.
Website does not go into much detail about the "used" condition of the
wire/conductors going into the new lamp
socket screw terminals or to replace the
insulator pad with the new one. As I say.... "put a perfectly good lamjp into a bad lamp
socket...." the same would be the case in putting bad wiring into a good lamp
socket.
Let me go into that perfectly good lamp
socket concept a little more as important please. Every time you at least in study of dual ended 1.2Kw moving light lamps, put a perfectly good lamp into a bad lamp
socket, it fails 100 lamp hours sooner in a cumulative type of way. I have literally tracked lamps installed at 500 hours going "bad", down
thru 100 hours and less "bad" when the same clueless lamp changer has had to visit the same
fixture multiple and increasing times, but never wondered about why the lamp was going bad... often outer pinch failure due to bad lamp
socket. A lamp could be arch welded to the
base or have a Osram tattoo and arch welding on the
base of the lamp, as with huge heat damage, and that as if
fuse outer pinch (crack) failure as the cause of why the lamp stopped working... yet they keep installing a perfectly good lamp into it. (
Fixture wiring also at this
point is normally toast so even if they at some
point change the lamp
socket, it won't fix the problem.) (
Ballast often than starts to go in the next step.)
Anyway, back to a P-28s, on the web link there is nothing really about how to
wire up the replacement lamp
socket properly, when to cut back on or replace the
wire. Be careful not to loose the screws is mentioned - what size are they for replace them if corroded? Replacement of mounting screws is a normal thing. Normally 4-40x1/2" and go stainless steel, but there is I Believe 6-32 variants out there with the newer bases.
Attachment of the old wiring and are they
crimp terminal and high temp insulated or bare
wire under the screw terminals implied from how to from the website I am more concerned about.
The website cites a clearly bad lamp
socket given a fin broken. Again I stand for about 90, or at least 50% of lamp sockets can be resurfaced and become again perfectly fine.