Rigging for Powered Speakers

Andy Haefner

Active Member
Hello, For an upcoming show I am planning to fly some powered speakers for center coverage. The Speakers I have are JBL EON 612's which weigh 33 pounds each. They have 3 fly points, 2 on top and 1 on the back. My plan was to use chain and quicklinks to suspend these from a batten. The idea was going to be chain through the eyebolt, a quicklink securing the loop around, and the same deal at the top by the batten but around the batten. Is there any flaws in this way of rigging these? Or extra safety precautions I should know about? I figure as long as my chain is rated for at least 8x the weight it will be carrying (ill just factor in the whole speaker they're light) i should be fine but the last thing I want to happen is for one of these to fall on somebody.
 
Last edited:
Hello, For an upcoming show I am planning to fly some powered speakers for center coverage. The Speakers I have are JBL EON 612's which weigh 33 pounds each. They have 3 fly points, 2 on top and 1 on the back. My plan was to use chain and quicklinks to suspend these from a batten. The idea was going to be chain through the eyebolt, a quicklink securing the loop around, and the same deal at the top by the batten but around the batten. Is there any flaws in this way of rigging these? Or extra safety precautions I should know about? I figure as long as my chain is rated for at least 8x the weight it will be carrying (ill just factor in the whole speaker they're light) i should be fine but the last thing I want to happen is for one of these to fall on somebody.
@Andy Haefner Be sure you purchase rated, forged, shouldered eye-bolts NOT merely eye-bolts manufactured by winding rod around a form. Locking carabiners would be my preference rather than non-rated quick-links and welded, rated, chain too.
Toodleoo!
Ron Hebbard.
 
STOP!

There are several issues with your plan than give me pause for concern. It goes without saying that you should find a local rigger to consult with you on how to properly hang the speakers. 33lbs may not seem like a lot, but dropped from 20’ it will kill someone. Rigging is often not something you can just learn from “books” to say. Having a mentor goes a long way.

My concerns:

1) As Ron mentioned, you must use rated hardware! The eye bolts, Chain, connection hardware.
2) do NOT run the chain through the eyebolts. This applies load to the sides of the chain links.
3) Use shackles not quick links.

in THEORY the proper way to do this would be to use 1/4” grade 30 proof coil chain (their are chain manufacturers that approve use of proof coil chain for theatrical trim chains in a double load path.) You would form a basket (loop) around the pipe batten and then use a 1/4” shackle to connect both ends of the chain directly to a drop foraged shoulder eye bolt attached to the speakers threaded insert. The pin of the shackle would connect to the eyebolt, with both half’s of the chain in the bell. The attached picture shows the proper orientation of the shackle. Just imaging the single piece of chain in the photo as the eyebolt.

Repeat this for the other two attachments. When you need to change the height or angle of the speaker, you can simply “remove” links from he chain basket, but make sure you do not let them get captured under the shackle or the other chain links. The ones you remove should be free to move.

Again, this is the theory, but I highly recommend getting someone to come in and assist you with your hang.

Overloads, please remove this post if it crosses our TOS in regards to rigging.

Regards,
Ethan
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3317.JPG
    IMG_3317.JPG
    90 KB · Views: 434
@RonHebbard @egilson1 Thank you very much for the comments as i know what to use now and they stopped me from doing something dangerous in the future. I have been in contact with a local rigger who volunteers with my school district and he agreed to stop in the day i plan to rig up the speakers.
Thanks Again
-Andy
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back