New Chauvet lighting equipment- question on equipment/accessories

hamlett22

Member
Hello

I have a question about a lighting upgrade we are implementing. My goal is to make sure we have what we need to connect these new fixtures to our current system. I was hoping someone might offer my some input on that... I think I am close, I just want to make sure.

We ordered 16 Chauvet 915FC Fresnals, and 7 Chauvet Ovation B2805-FC Cyc lights.

Accessories for connectivity that I ordered include, Powerstream 4 power connectors, ETC Two-Port DMX/RDM Output Gateway (NET3) as well as DMX cables and Neutrik power cables and some barndoors for the Fresnals, safety cables, clamps, etc....

It seems that I can daisy-chain the Fresnals and the Cyc lights with DMX and power. From my understanding I can patch a circuit on our ETC Element console to provide power only (non-dim) and then I can use that circuit to power the instruments. Just like an intelligent light.

I do want to make sure I have the correct DMX equipment. I am not 100%. I know the gateways should be fine and talk with our ETC Element Console. We already have them and I am familiar with the setup and programming. I know that I need ETC Net3 Gateways in order to go into a 2nd universe. I ordered those. I am assuming that I can run a cable from a Net 3 Gateway to the first instrument and then daisy chain each instrument to the next.

Question? Do I have everything that I need? Any input on missing equipment or other issues that I may contend with?

Due to purchasing procedures, I cannot get equipment replacements or additions quickly. Our summer orders are upon us so I want to make sure everything is ordered so when I return in August, it is ready to roll out.

Your feedback is appreciated.
Chad
 
Might be a little trial and error finding the right balance of edison>powercon and powercon>powercon cables in your inventory.

I would consider adding a few Colorsource Relays to that package to power-cycle your fixtures on/off when they're not in use. If you leave them plugged in all the time and the circuit energized, the power supplies remain active and won't last as long. Best practice is to feed them from relay power so you can kill power to them entirely when not in use.

You should not power the LED's from any dimmer circuits, even if the circuit is configured in the console as "non-dim". You want to power from either a relay or a true non-dimmer source. Long-story short, even parked at 100%, passing power through dimmers outputs a lower power quality to the electronics in your LED fixtures. Over time, this will have a negative impact and they may not last as long.
 
Chad,
Great that you're using NET3 and gateways - easier to run ethernet than a lot of XLR5 cables, but do you have room on your switch for more gateways? And are your switches POE, if so, do they have enough reserve power for the additional 2-port gateways you're adding (if you're not POE you might consider adding some POE injectors or getting a POE switch, it's easier to run ethernet with POE than ethernet plus a mains power lead.)
Just FYI, it is totally possible to have your Element output both universe 1 and universe 2 from the 2 hardware ports on the rear of the desk, just needs to be set that way in the console's OUTPUT settings.

As far as your hardware list, as Mike said, you'll figure out the right mix of cable types for your common set ups. Just remember that simply because you CAN daisy-chain doesn't mean you should. Each fixture draws a certain current, and the jumpers inside each fixture are not immune from damage by fixtures on the loop pulling too much current through them. Check, read, and label somewhere on the fixture the maximum number of amps/watts that each fixture can feed through on the white powercon connector. For example, your 915FC units are 260 watts, and can daisy-chain to a maximum of 6 units at 120vac or 10 units at 208vac. Your Powerstream also maxes out at 2400 watts for the whole block, even if any individual white could pass through 2400 watts (assuming the other 3 had no load at all.) Don't forget proper power just because things are about to look easy.

And I'm going to echo and reinforce Mike's point - simply parking an SCR or IGBT dimmer at full is not a good power source for a unit with an active power supply. Relay (R20) or always on (CC20) or extension cord into the wall outlet are all better alternatives.

On the DMX end of your question, you're making your life easier with the gateways as you will not have to daisy chain every fixture together, even though, with only 23 fixtures you could. Keeping small groups of similarly located fixtures together on DMX chains will make data troubleshooting easier and stop one bad cable or fixture from taking out your entire rig.

One last reminder - be careful in what mode/personality you operate the LED fixtures. Those strips could use up 1/3 of a universe each if you set them in their highest channel personality (135 channels)

Good Luck and enjoy the new fixtures.
 
thank you for your feedback. If I understand you correctly, I should order an ETC non-dim module for ouR ETC dimmer console that supports Relay (R20) or always on (CC20). FYI- I only need power when I use these for shows so i had planned on powering them up when we fire up the board to run an event. Otherwise, they are off (no power). I appreciate the heads up on the DMX channel issues. We do have POE and can plug Net3 boxes in 24 different locations around the theatre. Thank you again for your input. Very helpful.
Chad
 
Yes, if you want to control power on/off from the board go with the R20 or R20AF modules, if you want to have them always on or walk to the dimmer rack to drop power then you'll need CC20.
Of course- I would also suggest a gaff tape or console tape label over the stage circuit so people on the deck know that plug-out is now something other than a dimmer, and when you get the relay or constant module tray, a little paint or colored spike tape on the tray handle makes it easy to identify when you're restoring after the show.

Also - you'll probably need to order/make an adapter from your dimming raceway to whatever plug is on the power whip for the fixtures.

Just to circle back on your comment of "we have 24 ethernet jacks so POE will work" comment - be sure that your switch has enough power per port and total power in the switch to properly power a POE device on every output. Many switches of certain vintages were POE on 1/2 the outputs, or POE on all outputs but with enough total power to do, say 12 of 24 connected hosts as POE. Just double checking will insure you don't waste an afternoon tracking down intermittent DMX issues to find out that your nodes are being deprived of a watt or 4. Then again, if this is an ETC spec'd rack you probably have way more power available in the switch than you're ever going to need - but knowing is never a bad thing.
 
I would also add a DMX Opto-Isolated Splitter to your list, if you don't own one already. These let you easily split up a universe of DMX into independent runs, so you can send and chain DMX individually to your electrics or other positions without having to deal with running cables between positions to keep everything on one DMX run.
 
Michael,
Good point, and for most installations I'd say you're spot on, however in Chad's case, he's purchasing multiple additional NET3 2-port nodes which are effectively 2 ports on that optio/disto unit you're talking about. he can position those units and have 2 ports of universe 1, 2 ports of universe 2 or 1 and 1 anyplace he chooses to place those network nodes. They're pricey little buggers but definitely more flexible than a single 4, 6, or 8-port opto. Along with the nodes (or opto) depending on how hard it is to get any cables to a location the OP could consider paralleling a W-DMX/SHoW-DMX type system. again, the qualities of an opto (one TX to unlimited RX) with the flexibility of not having to home run any cables. What's even more fun is to make a white-PowerCon to female Edison connector and run power through your daisy-chain to the receiver and then run the data back from the reciver to the start of the power chain. really makes set-up go quickly as long as you remember you're running your data opposite of your power. But now I'm digressing.
 
I would also add a DMX Opto-Isolated Splitter to your list, if you don't own one already. These let you easily split up a universe of DMX into independent runs, so you can send and chain DMX individually to your electrics or other positions without having to deal with running cables between positions to keep everything on one DMX run.
@Michael K @Gobokat and @hamlett22 Don't forget to plug terminators into the ends of EVERY run extending from your splitters and / or nodes.
Toodleoo!
Ron Hebbard
 
depending on how hard it is to get any cables to a location the OP could consider paralleling a W-DMX/SHoW-DMX type system
And a solid choice for that would be a set of RC4Magic-900 DMXio transceivers. Running at 900MHz, far away from all the 2.4GHz stuff that's everywhere now, higher power, longer range, and better ability to punch through walls and other obstructions, there's really nothing else like it.

IMO, anyway. I designed it. :)
Jim
RC4
 

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