Colortran ENR24

1. Probably early 1990's.
2. If you are talking about an ellipsoidal spot fixture, look on the fixture yoke and it will usually have this information.
If you are talking about a Followspot, it may be on the rear nameplate.
Or Google the fixture and find the owner's manual or instruction sheet. Or post a photo and we can figure it out.
Normally I would say look at the lamp that's in it, but too many folks put any lamp that fits the socket (usually NOT the correct one).
If your school is a public entity, they probably have a lamp contract (think hallway and classroom lighting) with a big lighting distributor. Have your teacher or principal talk
to your school district Maintenance head (not the school custodian) or chief Media Center person to ask where they are getting their lamps.
Otherwise, you can order from places like Lampline.com.
3. The Colortran ENR dimmers generally default to Colortran's control protocol CMX. The ETC Element outputs DMX. They are not the same exactly.
The Colortran ENR Dimmer Racks are capable of receiving either CMX or DMX. The key is to hit the ENR's reset button after the DMX has been applied to the ENR Dimmer Rack.
This will cause the system to use DMX input. If the DMX source is on before the rack powers up, it will switch to DMX as well.
If you turn the DMX console OFF and the rack loses power, it will reset to CMX.
Normally, folks never turn their dimmer racks off, so if the Element and ENR are working together OK now, everything should be fine.
4. It is standard practice to run LED fixtures from non-dim (constant) power, NOT thru dimmed power even with the dimmer at full.
the CS PARs are nice fixtures..... take care of them.
 
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1. Probably early 1990's.
2. If you are talking about an ellipsoidal spot fixture, look on the fixture yoke and it will usually have this information.
If you are talking about a Followspot, it may be on the rear nameplate.
Or Google the fixture and find the owner's manual or instruction sheet. Or post a photo and we can figure it out.
Normally I would say look at the lamp that's in it, but too many folks put any lamp that fits the socket (usually NOT the correct one).
If your school is a public entity, they probably have a lamp contract (think hallway and classroom lighting) with a big lighting distributor. Have your teacher or principal talk
to your school district Maintenance head (not the school custodian) or chief Media Center person to ask where they are getting their lamps.
Otherwise, you can order from places like Lampline.com.
3. The Colortran ENR dimmers generally default to Colortran's control protocol CMX. The ETC Element outputs DMX. They are not the same exactly.
The Colortran ENR Dimmer Racks are capable of receiving either CMX or DMX. The key is to hit the ENR's reset button after the DMX has been applied to the ENR Dimmer Rack.
This will cause the system to use DMX input. If the DMX source is on before the rack powers up, it will switch to DMX as well.
If you turn the DMX console OFF and the rack loses power, it will reset to CMX.
Normally, folks never turn their dimmer racks off, so if the Element and ENR are working together OK now, everything should be fine.
4. It is standard practice to run LED fixtures from non-dim (constant) power, NOT thru dimmed power even with the dimmer at full.
the CS PARs are nice fixtures..... take care of them.
Thanks man. We are not a public entity, but we do have a technical person who I have been in close contact with for any assistance with our board. He could probably help out. I will post a picture when I have access to our auditorium in the following days.
 
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1. Probably early 1990's.
2. If you are talking about an ellipsoidal spot fixture, look on the fixture yoke and it will usually have this information.
If you are talking about a Followspot, it may be on the rear nameplate.
Or Google the fixture and find the owner's manual or instruction sheet. Or post a photo and we can figure it out.
Normally I would say look at the lamp that's in it, but too many folks put any lamp that fits the socket (usually NOT the correct one).
If your school is a public entity, they probably have a lamp contract (think hallway and classroom lighting) with a big lighting distributor. Have your teacher or principal talk
to your school district Maintenance head (not the school custodian) or chief Media Center person to ask where they are getting their lamps.
Otherwise, you can order from places like Lampline.com.
3. The Colortran ENR dimmers generally default to Colortran's control protocol CMX. The ETC Element outputs DMX. They are not the same exactly.
The Colortran ENR Dimmer Racks are capable of receiving either CMX or DMX. The key is to hit the ENR's reset button after the DMX has been applied to the ENR Dimmer Rack.
This will cause the system to use DMX input. If the DMX source is on before the rack powers up, it will switch to DMX as well.
If you turn the DMX console OFF and the rack loses power, it will reset to CMX.
Normally, folks never turn their dimmer racks off, so if the Element and ENR are working together OK now, everything should be fine.
4. It is standard practice to run LED fixtures from non-dim (constant) power, NOT thru dimmed power even with the dimmer at full.
the CS PARs are nice fixtures..... take care of them.
20220315_091350.jpg

Here they are. About the best I can do for now.
 

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If you put those lamp descriptions into your search engine you'll turn up suppliers, e.g. searching for 750W EHG lamp brings up numerous suppliers, such as BH just as an example.
 
Yes, the 3 letter codes are what you want to know. They are cross brand, national standards. The first number sets are ColorTran parts numbers.

The most important question is wattage. If you never have more than 2 fixtures in a dimmer you can use the 1000W FEL which is very common. A very safe and easy rounding of 1 amp for every 100 watts (2 1000W units on a 20A dimmer) will let you figure the rest. Not all dimmers are 20A!

Do get to know your local dealer. They can be very useful for repeat customers. Some even hire bright energetic high schoolers for summer jobs.
 
In that fixture, I would run the GLA 575w lamp, which probably wasn't invented when that fixture was manufactured (hence it not showing up on the yoke label). The EHG/EHF/FEL lamps of course will work as well, I've just personally moved away from that lamp type.
 
GLA, which is 575w. The GLA has an updated filament design (as compared to the EHG and FEL) so it's a punchy lamp which pretty much replaces the older 750 watt versions. I can't imagine your use requiring a 1,000w FEL. Plus the FEL will be harder on the fixture and will burn through gels/gobos faster.
 
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GLA, which is 575w. The GLA has an updated filament design (as compared to the EHG and FEL) so it's a punchy lamp which pretty much replaces the older 750 watt versions. I can't imagine your use requiring a 1,000w FEL. Plus the FEL will be harder on the fixture and will burn through gels/gobos faster.
Update after about a week:
So, we replaced about 6 bulbs with the GLA 575s. They worked great. Until a breaker tripped in the rack. We were originally using only about 14, 5/50 Colortran Eplisodals, 10 ETC ColorSource PARs, and a mix of around 4, 30 year old stage lights and 4 LEDs on our stage. (Unsure of the brand and type because there is absolutely no labeling on them.) Then, we added 4 more 5/50s after we changed the bulbs. Near the end of our production tonight, the PARs started flashing on and off, around 2 months after they stopped, and two of the lights on the stage blew a breaker in the rack. Now, the two that were connected to the dimmer that were blown will not turn on. My only guess it that something either happened to the lamps or another problem, which we have not resolved yet. (I am almost certain the lamps have not be replaced in at least 15 years, so I have no clue what the problem is.)

I will investigate it tomorrow, but my guess is that the PARs are either not getting enough power, or they are not receiving a strong enough signal, because we are using wireless relays. If anyone has any ideas about the lights on the stage or what the problem could be, please let me know. (If you didn't see in my first post, I am a student in my highschool stage crew club, so if I am missing anything, labeling or naming things wrong, or whatever else, please let me know because I am open to any help.) Thanks again!
 
"...two of the lights on the stage blew a breaker in the rack. Now, the two that were connected to the dimmer that were blown will not turn on."
If the lamps died, then they obviously would not be able to be turned back on, unless I'm misreading your description!

If your ColorSource LED PARs are plugged into your ENR dimmers and you are not using the very rare non-dim modules, you have a great potential for issues, even if you have taken the steps to insure that the dimmers always stay at 100%.
The CS PARs want full non-dim or constant power (as in straight from a wall outlet). A dimmer at full will still distort the AC waveform. Yes ETC says they can be used with ETC dimmers by following certain procedures, but you do not have ETC dimmers. You mention using "wireless relays". Are these the ETC ColorSource Relays? What is the AC power source for these?
So the flashing on and off could be related to a power issue or a DMX issue. Is a terminator used at the last fixture? You should not be having problems with the ColorSource PARs as they are a very reliable fixture. Another thing to check that often causes random flashing is Pin 1 of a DMX cable connected to the connector shell. This sometimes happens with imported DMX cables. You will either have to open up the connector and look or test with a meter or cable tester.
 
"...two of the lights on the stage blew a breaker in the rack. Now, the two that were connected to the dimmer that were blown will not turn on."
If the lamps died, then they obviously would not be able to be turned back on, unless I'm misreading your description!

If your ColorSource LED PARs are plugged into your ENR dimmers and you are not using the very rare non-dim modules, you have a great potential for issues, even if you have taken the steps to insure that the dimmers always stay at 100%.
The CS PARs want full non-dim or constant power (as in straight from a wall outlet). A dimmer at full will still distort the AC waveform. Yes ETC says they can be used with ETC dimmers by following certain procedures, but you do not have ETC dimmers. You mention using "wireless relays". Are these the ETC ColorSource Relays? What is the AC power source for these?
So the flashing on and off could be related to a power issue or a DMX issue. Is a terminator used at the last fixture? You should not be having problems with the ColorSource PARs as they are a very reliable fixture. Another thing to check that often causes random flashing is Pin 1 of a DMX cable connected to the connector shell. This sometimes happens with imported DMX cables. You will either have to open up the connector and look or test with a meter or cable tester.
Thanks. I definitely described it wrong because it was late, and the breaker wasn't turned back on. I flipped it off and back on, but, keep in mind this was well after 11, I didn't even realize I did it when the rack was still on, and I locked the rack, turned it off and left, so entirely my own user error.

I'm still not entirely sure why the lights popped the breaker, because they turned back on just fine when I was testing them. We have 30+ year old SSRC terminals, of which a lot of the ports do not work on. Any ideas about that?

--------------

We do not have the non-dim modules unfortunately. Yes, we are using the ColorSource wireless relays. The AC power for the relays is right out of a dimmer, and then the power goes through the relay into the LEDs. We also, not shockingly at this point, do not have terminators on the end. I am very thankful for your provided ideas about this. I am going to check the DMX cables to see if something is wrong with the inputs, or whatever else I can find.
 
"The AC power for the relays is right out of a dimmer, and then the power goes through the relay into the LEDs." I would absolutely positively unplug the CS Relays from the dimmer circuits and run an AC cord from the nearest wall outlets to the CS Relays. If it looks like you will have the ENR dimmer rack for several more years, you could email Steve Short at litetrol.com and have him quote you the price to turn a couple of your ENR dimmer modules into non-dim (constant) modules. I believe they will take a module you provide and make the change for something like $100. Money well spent to do it right.
 
Certain voltage/amps needed for an outlet where I would be plugging 5 CS PARs plus a CS Relay into?
In perusing the datasheet, it looks like these use about 2 amps each. Inrush current is much more, but lasts a half-cycle [no time at all] and won't be an issue with your amount of fixtures so lets not get in to the weeds on that. Anyway, looks like you'll be pulling about ten amps max so as long as the circuit you're using isn't also supplying a fog machine, refrigeration unit, coffee maker, etc, you should be fine. The circuits in your school (even the wall outlets) are going to be good for 20 amps minimum. But yes, CS relays definitely won't like being on dimmers. I know ETC okay's it with their fixtures (on their dimmers), but I doubt they recommend it for relays and other electronics.

You should be able to put 4 575w fixtures on a single 2.4kw dimmer circuit. Any more than that and you're heading for an overload. Some battens have repeating circuits (the bane of my existence) which may look something like "10, 11, 12, 13, 10, 11, 12, 13". In this case, all like numbers almost certainly share a dimmer so you have to take that in to account when calculating the total load. It's easy to get carried away with two-fers and inadvertently pull more power than you should.
 
Alright, that works great. My only other question is, what is the maximum length you can have on, I guess what we would be using, an Edison to powerCON, because we would have to go at least 25' to get an outlet on its on circuit.

As for the other problem, someone got carried away with a some two-fers, because we have somewhere around, and this is my guess because I am going to open the at some point when I get the chance two, 3, 1000w fixtures on one circuit. I don't know who wired them, but I am going to spread them out. Following that, I will have to make some minor patch changes on our console, and in theory that should fix everything.
 
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Acceptable 120V wire length is directly related to the wire size. All your cables should be at least 12 gauge, by code. 50' is fine for 20A of 12gu. though many charts are a bit more conservative. Real life tends to introduce smaller wire stuff like 16gu orange extensions. Those might do OK at 25' as LED lights aren't voltage sensitive.
 

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