LED Cue lights

Maybe there was a typo somewhere, but I am not embracing using a phone or tablet for the cue light system. You know as well as I do, unicorn burps are becoming scarce.


I would primarily be using RED, maybe I might throw a BLUE or GREEN in there if I needed multiple lights. Like at the automation desk. But, on the deck it's just RED.
Unicorn burps are also subject to interference (the breaking wind is particularly bad)... and keeping domesticated unicorns is typically a zoning violation. :(

The color comment was aimed at Jay's post about the number of colors available with the LED bars he was showing.
 
Unicorn burps are also subject to interference (the breaking wind is particularly bad)... and keeping domesticated unicorns is typically a zoning violation. :(

The color comment was aimed at Jay's post about the number of colors available with the LED bars he was showing.
That’s why I’m not wanting to use unicorn burps for my cue light system.

After I replied to the color comment I realized it wasn’t actually intended for me.
 
Hi Aaron S - have you read my query and related thread about this? I have gone through this heartache aswell
https://www.controlbooth.com/threads/cue-lights-rf-or-cabled-or-what.47826/

At the moment I use a cheap 6-channel dmx dimmer with the dmx signal going into a dmx transmitter.
Down at the hot end I have a dmx receiver (Don't forget to use an unsed dmx channel) that is attached into a dmx 4 channel dimmer.
I currently have three cue lights that are 15w pygmy bulbs in a bulb holder with a mains socket. I plug the mains socket into the dmx dimmer. KERCHING!!!
This is all a bit overkill, but it is spare stock that I have so the whole project cost me lest than £20 / $25?

Hope this helps - tell us how you get on please :¬)

Cheers
Red
I have taken a look at that thread. It did get my mind turning a bit, but my issue is size of controller, and number of lights. I need at a minimum 9, and I'm looking to get at least 12. I'd also like for it all to run off of cat5. I have network ports all over my building and being able to tap in anywhere would save cable, and greatly improve places I can put them.

Thanks for the response
 
So you're instantly dismissive of "wireless" but embrace a phone or tablet? Must - not - be - condescending.... but what do you think those devices run on, unicorn burps?

You misread him.

Aaron said:

> I definitely want to stay away from wireless and using a phone or tablet to trigger cue lights.

He didn't say "and use a phone".
 
You misread him.

Aaron said:

> I definitely want to stay away from wireless and using a phone or tablet to trigger cue lights.

He didn't say "and use a phone".
So it seems. 70 hours a week is taking a toll on this old man.
 
I am sorry to say I have no idea what AIP is. That may be a good solution for me, just have no idea what it is. I also don't mind having a system that "no one would want to inherit" since I will most likely be in this job for a VERY long time.

But, I do understand what you're saying. That's why I was hoping someone had already done something like this.
AIP - Advanced Input Patch - Is a feature on ETC gateways that lets you patch an incoming DMX address to any EDMX/sACN address. It's a way to take a dumb dmx controller and let it do other things, if a bit of a "magic box" to anyone not clear of what's going on.
 
I do like this idea, I would have to figure out a way to get more lights on the system. I need at a minimum 9, ideally I'm shooting for 12
If you're using building-Category wiring to get from Send to Receive, there's no reason you can't parallel as many lights as you want, assuming your power supply is up to the task.
 
If you're going to use a switch then you'll be encoding everything as ethernet packets, I guess, rather than the simple approach of just using the wiring as a handy way to get low voltage signalling around the space.
 
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Since you have access to the cat5 at the patch panel, I would use it as simple cable (without the ethernet switch). Build a box for the desk that takes in power from a wall wart and has buttons and an RJ45 for each remote station. Then on the far end, wire up an LED and current-limiting resistor or better yet constant current regulator (or RGB led or separate ones). Just pick your pinout so that if you do plug into an ethernet port with POE you won't blow anything up.

If you want to go the ethernet/POE route it will be more work and more expense per station.
 
You won't be wanting to pull much current down the CAT5 cables. Using it for signalling with the actual LED switching at the end point would be ok.

If it were me, I'd also design it in a way that causes no damage (to the light system or Ethernet devices) if plugged into the wrong place. It will happen.
 
Sure, a POE-powered ethernet solution is the best (or at least the most generic) but gets pricy per node, and nowdays, finding the parts you need is a nightmare. If someone is interested in this (and feels like writing the firmware), I could toss together a quick design for one

CAT5 is 24AWG, which is rated at 2.2A per conductor but the RJ45 is more like 350mA per pin. Looking at the POE spec, the lowest (802.3at Type 1) is rated at 350mA over 2 wires or 175mA per. Still way more than needed to power a cue LED. Feed the line with 12V and use a 2-transistor current regulator (or even an LM317) instead of a series resistor to allow for a wide range of voltage drop on the cable.

I definetly agree with making sure this will not cause damage to anything. This can be tricky; I believe if you use pin 8 for common and use 3 amd 7 for current-limited power to the LEDs, you would be OK with not damaging 10/100, gigabit, POE (poor man's, 2 pair, or 4 pair) if plugged in to the wrong place.
 

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