Loudspeakers Speakers/Amps--good combo?

These crowns look like they only put out less than 100 watts! I need like 450 on the mains and 250-300 on the mons.

Also, forgot to mention. I want one amp for both the mains, and one amp per four monitors (two monitors per side) (I also have hot-spots I need to power)
 
As a quick aside...my first gut reaction to the title of this thread was...Well yes..amps for speakers is a good combination.
 
These crowns look like they only put out less than 100 watts! I need like 450 on the mains and 250-300 on the mons.
Okay, to take the sarcasm in the other direction, this one, only 77 pounds. A rack of six or eight should do nicely.:twisted:
 
Okay, to take the sarcasm in the other direction, this one, only 77 pounds. A rack of six or eight should do nicely.:twisted:


Sadly, I've seen racks of six or eight of those. They're not fun to move around. :(
 
What are you trying to do? Who will be running the system? Do you have any speaker protection processing in the system?

There can be a significant difference between trying to achieve a specific output level versus simply getting as much output as possible. The latter can be a balancing act of the power available and using it properly and more power can be a good or bad thing depending upon how it is used (or misused).

For example, Phil's suggestion of the PLX1804 for the monitors is a good one but if you don't have any other limiting in the system then the PLX3102 with internal clip limiting might make more sense. And you could get a more powerful amp to get every bit out of your mains, you could also use the same amp for the mains and monitors and while you might have a dB or so less output on the mains, there might be some other advantages to having the same amp everywhere.
 
For example, Phil's suggestion of the PLX1804 for the monitors is a good one but if you don't have any other limiting in the system then the PLX3102 with internal clip limiting might make more sense.
From the sheets it looks like they both have internal active clip limiting but the limiter on the 3102 can be defeated using the switch on the rear panel.
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IMO, it should not be an option to defeat the limiter.
If you think you need to do that you have probably not brought "enough rig for the gig".
 
I'm working on designing a mid-sized semi portable sound system. I don't plan on any other processors other than EQ (so far, as this budget just seems to grow on and on). Would you recommend such a unit?

I will be the only one running the system. I will be either directly or closely supervising the sound op at all times, but I will always physically be there, literally hovering the unit. (Unless I have to pee or somethin......)

I stumbled upon that QSC amp finder tool on the internet. I tried playing with it for a little while, seeing what I could turn up.

I thought that the specific amp that was pointed out above was a little strong for those mons, but I didn't have time to look too in depth, as I was actually running a show at the same time I posted all this.

I've been thinking up this system right and left for a year now. Have not ever come to solid ground on the amps. Thats why I turned to you people.
 
I thought that the specific amp that was pointed out above was a little strong for those mons, but I didn't have time to look too in depth, as I was actually running a show at the same time I posted all this.
Remember that you want about 1.5 - 2 times RMS.
 
Blah067, are you opposed to powered speakers for any reason? I'm told even that L-Acoustics company has some good ones.;)
 
Oops, didn't read into the second page.


Active speakers would seem to be the appropiate choice for this application.
 
Forget this nonsense about passive tops and get two Mackie SA1521z.
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I agree with Phil. An active speaker has several advantiges over a passive one. They tend to be biamped, and the crossover filtering and equalization is going to be smoother and more accurate than a passive one. It may provide driver time-alignment, which isn't done passively.

An active speaker can have driver protection that is much more sophisticated than what you can do with an outboard limiter. For example, it may take into account the thermal characteristics of the individual driver coils.

The size of the amplifiers tend to be well matched to the speaker drivers. You aren't paying for more than you need.

All in all, if given a choice between a passive speaker and an active one, like in small, portable applications, I would choose the active speaker.
 
From the sheets it looks like they both have internal active clip limiting but the limiter on the 3102 can be defeated using the switch on the rear panel.
You are correct, my mistake.

So do other people Derek.;)
(you'll see and hear next year)
There are a number of very good powered speakers for a variety of applications and over a wide price range available now.

An active speaker has several advantiges over a passive one. They tend to be biamped, and the crossover filtering and equalization is going to be smoother and more accurate than a passive one. It may provide driver time-alignment, which isn't done passively.

An active speaker can have driver protection that is much more sophisticated than what you can do with an outboard limiter. For example, it may take into account the thermal characteristics of the individual driver coils.

The size of the amplifiers tend to be well matched to the speaker drivers. You aren't paying for more than you need.
These seem to be rather overgeneralized statements. Not only do several 'passive' speaker manufacturers offer external processors that do just about everything noted, but many speaker manufacturers offer the same processor setting information for users to input into external processors. I would disagree with the assertion that the crossover and EQ will inherently be better in active speakers, it may make a good result more of a 'no brainer' but if you know what you are doing you can often do better yourself for your specific application. Also keep in mind that the internal processing in powered speakers is only for that individual speaker, you often still want external processing to address the effects of arraying, the room, device time alignment and just how it sounds.

All in all, if given a choice between a passive speaker and an active one, like in small, portable applications, I would choose the active speaker.
Agreed, for that specific application. Do be aware that many powered speakers have 'pin 1' problems and if you end up with something like the mixer, left and right speakers on three different power circuits you could have hum and noise problems, so it is best to be ready with extension cords, input transformers or whatever else is necessary should this happen.
 
Don't we need to have my question answere before reasonable responses can be offered?

Sorry. I missed this and the thread took off today without me checking it.
I just like the control of the amps I guess. I've worked with these cabs before, I just liked the sound of them I guess. I'll reconsider though to ensure the correct choice for my system.

Does anybody have recommendations for processors for the speakers? Decent price and quality, preferably not from behringer?

Thanks to everyone so far.
 

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