Recent content by curtg

I have used Extruded Styrofoam attached to a heavy wooden base (2x8) foot. Essentially, I get the center of gravity as low as possible so the flat supports itself. The Stryo is taped to metal lath for stiffness. Metal Lath is lighter straighter than wood and easier to work with. I tape cheap...

Ceiling height determines your options. Standing things up, takes less space and done properly gives you more access to the part you need. Being able to quickly and safely access parts is extremely important. Whenever you have to move one thing to get at another, your system will fail as things...

I use Sketchup. My experience with models has been mixed. Well executed models work well. Unfortunately, I have been shown too many poorly executed models of mixed scales that only confuse everyone except the model maker. I make drawings from the model before building. I have stopped working...

We really need more context (i.e., where is the door leading). So the answer at this time is which ever way the director wants it. Typically, I would open it with the door going upstage so I would only have to paint one side.Curtis

The solvents are different. Shellac is cut with alcohol. Shellac is easier to fix. Poly is tougher. I have read that a lot of people are using the two together (i.e., Shellac with Poly over it on the high wear surfaces). Shellac is also used as a separator layer between various stains and...

If you have a foot of space behind the walls (more would be better), make a long narrow wagon and put the wall on the edge of it. Stage brace the wall to the wagon, and add weights to the wagon to lower the center of gravity. My fixed sets usually consist of 12 foot tall canvas flats that, in...

I'll bite. WD40

I would say wow, but one size doesn't fit all situations. The picture illustrates a quick and dirty solution. The challenge is finding an eloquent solution. There are still a lot of things to consider, even on a tight budget. Eight inch steps get people up and down fast, but they will be seen...

To really help, I need a lot more information about the scale of your production. The typical community theatre foot bridge is a small arch. Some bridges I have seen are modified wagons with the arches painted on the sides. Quick and dirty, construct a 2' high table 3'X4' with ramps or...

I think your approach to this problem in commendable. Good luck! You have also gotten some good alternatives. This is a silly battle that takes place all over the place. The money people want shiny and bright and everything preserved forever. Theatre people want a working space. Who else uses...

I concur with Van. 3/4 is minimal even with your solid framing. Will you reuse this platform. If so, make the argument that the platforms will be going into stock. Sometimes there is a budget for necessary stock items.

You will do fine if you remember "Lead, follow, or get out of the way." Follow by being open to new ideas. Let your work demonstrate your competence. The leaders will appreciate this and soon you will be leading. Don't expect leaders to respect your abilities based on the 'greatness of your...

Great presentation. I have one suggestion that could solve your platform squeak problem. Instead of attaching legs to each platform and flipping the 'bad boy' over, put your knee walls in place first and and have your platforms straddle them. The platform edges would rest on the same edges. I...

The original post also asked about our thoughts on fasteners. While I introduced drywall screws to the local community theater scene 20 plus years ago, I try to avoid using them today. They are not strong enough. I use nails and bolts where there is going to be a shearing force. My platform lids...

I prefer to place the legs under the frame, rather than just inside the frame against the bottom of the lid. The platform's frame supports the lid, the legs support the frame. Gravity will hold things together rather than nails or screws. Building is easier running the legs just inside the...