Recent content by DELO72

OSRAM KREIOS FLX The OSRAM KREIOS FLx 90W LED flood light was designed to replace Scoops or other theatre "Work lights". 90W, equal to a 500W halogen fixture. Not DMX, just line voltage, but dims on most dimmers quite well. If your space won't have dimmers and is looking to be entirely LED...

Moving lights can create more of a problem than solve them (in a High School theatre). First- it can make for REALLY lazy designers. I've seen it firsthand with students who think if they hang a moving light in the center of the stage it can be spun about with a color dialed in and solve any...

This was absolutely true early on. But dimming technology has improved, and I've now seen many instances of dimmable LED fixtures (less so with individual light bulbs which have very cheap and small drivers) that dim VERY smoothly and do not appear to drop out or pop on anymore (to the eye that...

Safety Chain is the first thing attached and the last thing you remove. Same for Ground wire- First wire you connect is always the Green/Ground. Then the neutral, THEN the hot(s). Disconnect them in reverse order- Hot(s), then neutral/White, then Green/Ground as the last one. You always want...

Also the voltage of the lamp is key or it may not operate correctly and some burners might be larger than others, causing fit issues in the reflector. The OSRAM version is still readily available and is Part # 54313 HMI 575W/DXS. **EDIT-- This lamp replaced the original lamp, which was the...

Not much more to add here. Ron summed it up very well. I would say that the 77V HPLs are VERY low volume, so I might (in your case) avoid Dimmer Doubling simply because as lamps get phased out over the coming decades, it will be the odd ones with the lowest volume that go away first. It may make...

Blacklight is UVA. UVA (315-400 nm). UVB (280-315 nm) is for suntan lamps (aka. Cancer sticks). UVC (100-280 nm) is Germicidal & medical applications. 400nm is not "really" UVA however as it's completely in the visible spectrum., so it's really Violet more than Ultra-violet. You need to...

AMEN TO THAT!!!

Green with a Stripe (usually yellow) is European wire code for a ground wire. (Blue and Brown are the other (hot/neutral) wire colors. In this case, as they point out above, it's A/C, so the Hot/Neutral doesn't REALLY matter in the larger sense. You may want to verify the wire gauge is good...

We had to discontinue the TP220 (has the Heat Sink you are all referring to as "fins") years ago as the small metal fabrication company that manufactured one of the tabs on it went out of business. We had the part quoted elsewhere, but they wanted a tooling fee that would have cost 10x what we...

(mind you, from a business sense OSRAM (and I feel I can speak for USHIO in this one instance) are VERY happy to have you over-volt your lamps and go through them faster. It'll keep us in business and gainfully employed-- so please ignore what I just said above. *smile* ) ps. also feel free...

GLC, FLK and HX601 (another name for the FLK) are all rated at 115V, not 130V. They will die VERY early on if they are getting 122 - 124V. The OP does NOT want to go this route if they want to stop replacing lamps.

It's basically acting like a Double-ended lamp. They took a CC8 SE lamp and turned it on its side-- Voila! a double-ended CC6 lamp! :-) It's cheating... but it's clever.

The lamps are filled with nitrogen (inert gas that helps prevent oxidization (can't oxidize if there's no O2!) of the moly foil in the pinch seals of the inner capsule), So if it was under pressure, heated up, and the seal of the lens to the reflector wasn't perfect, they could easily shatter...

Yes, yes they do! Best barn door I've ever seen. ZERO spill from it. They did an amazing design on it and the half-hat. It does a very crisp cut of the beam as well, which surprised me (how good it was).