Design Help with GOBO ideas.

TheTheaterGeek · Apr 7, 2015

I am designing a show this summer for Southern California Shakespeare company.

I was wondering if anyone has ever tried to create the look of light spilling in from a broken/bombed out roof. I found alot of "beams" and "girders" But im looking for more like splintered wood and broken rock.

Any ideas?

Thanks

dvsDave · Apr 7, 2015

Though about taking some of those beam gobos and just cutting them in the middle and distressing them to suit your vision?

TheTheaterGeek · Apr 7, 2015

dvsDave said:
Though about taking some of those beam gobos and just cutting them in the middle and distressing them to suit your vision?

Hmmmmm. Thats an interesting idea. What do you think I could do to "Distress" them?

Robert · Apr 7, 2015

I think you could use a very sharp pair of tiny scissors to cut out parts of the gobo. The wood beams concept I understand, but the broken rock has me a little confused. Would that be a rock wall that is broken? Glass gobos while expensive, can be highly detailed and can be designed to be exactly what you want.

TheTheaterGeek · Apr 7, 2015

Robert said:
I think you could use a very sharp pair of tiny scissors to cut out parts of the gobo. The wood beams concept I understand, but the broken rock has me a little confused. Would that be a rock wall that is broken? Glass gobos while expensive, can be highly detailed and can be designed to be exactly what you want.

I have no budget for glass sadly.

What I mean by broken rock is, like if there was a hole in an old church roof you would see shadows of splintered beams and some of the stone from the roof, I would immagine.

llburg · Apr 7, 2015

I think if this is coming from the top, just about any rough jagged shape will do.

lwinters630 · Apr 7, 2015

Pie tin, and utility knife (lots of blades), steel chisel with and cut your own. after all you are looking for rustic jagged look.
If your have a Roscoe image pro, you can make anything.

Kelite · Apr 8, 2015

If you have the fortune of using a Source Four LED Profile, an Apollo PrintScenic gobo is both high resolution as well as inexpensive.

Whether a full color stock design is chosen (MSRP $14.70) or a custom gobo (MSRP $91.00) of your own design, these photograph-quality gobos fit the bill in many cases!

http://www.apollodesign.net/PrintScenic/default.aspx

CPayneLighting · Apr 8, 2015

Here is an article from a project I worked on a while I was in college. Low cost custom glass gobos. I used it for custom shutter cuts on my show but i think it could help in your situation.

TheTheaterGeek · Apr 9, 2015

Kelite said:
If you have the fortune of using a Source Four LED Profile, an Apollo PrintScenic gobo is both high resolution as well as inexpensive.

Whether a full color stock design is chosen (MSRP $14.70) or a custom gobo (MSRP $91.00) of your own design, these photograph-quality gobos fit the bill in many cases!

http://www.apollodesign.net/PrintScenic/default.aspx

I sadly don't have access to Led S4's. I wish I did.

lwinters630 said:
If your have a Roscoe image pro, you can make anything.

Does it actually work? Because It might be an option. Publicity wants one to advertise cheaper.

llburg said:
I think if this is coming from the top, just about any rough jagged shape will do.

Any Suggestions?

THese were some ideas I had. They just don't quite feel like a broken roof, maybe because they are to hard edged. MAybe i could scar the hard lines with a coping saw or something?

TheTheaterGeek · Apr 9, 2015

Crap those images got big haha.

robartsd · Apr 9, 2015

TheTheaterGeek said:
THese were some ideas I had. They just don't quite feel like a broken roof, maybe because they are to hard edged. MAybe i could scar the hard lines with a coping saw or something?

Even without scaring the hard lines, softening the focus would help. With a few different patterns overlapping, it might make the effect work. I do like the DYI idea using pyrex and high-temp paint posted by @CPayneLighting.

TheTheaterGeek · Apr 9, 2015

robartsd said:
Even without scaring the hard lines, softening the focus would help. With a few different patterns overlapping, it might make the effect work. I do like the DYI idea using pyrex and high-temp paint posted by @CPayneLighting.

Im going to look into that when I get into the shop.

Les · Apr 12, 2015

I don't know why one would want to use a full-color gobo for this, especially if going for realism. Light passing through a hole in a roof will be daylight in color (maybe use color correction to up your color temp) but it will be all in one color and not very detailed IRL. My vote is gobo #2 with the center cut out. Shoot it from an angle thereby getting some keystoning effect and (hopefully) de-focusing one side a bit more than the other. If you use more than one fixture, try to have them all come from the same general location.

lwinters630 · Apr 12, 2015

TheTheaterGeek said:
Does it actually work

Yes the image pro works quite well.

TheTheaterGeek · Apr 14, 2015

lwinters630 said:
Yes the image pro works quite well.

My supervisor is dubious about the longevity of the gobo. How long can you leave the light on before burnout?

Les said:
I don't know why one would want to use a full-color gobo for this, especially if going for realism. Light passing through a hole in a roof will be daylight in color (maybe use color correction to up your color temp) but it will be all in one color and not very detailed IRL. My vote is gobo #2 with the center cut out. Shoot it from an angle thereby getting some keystoning effect and (hopefully) de-focusing one side a bit more than the other. If you use more than one fixture, try to have them all come from the same general location.

I wasnt planning on using glass. Even if i could afford it, not sure it would give me the desired effect.

Thanks for the placement tip. I didn't think of that.

Its going to be a bit tough. Grid height in the Black Box is 13'10". Thankfully we have alot of 50°s.

lwinters630 · Apr 14, 2015

TheTheaterGeek said:
My supervisor is dubious about the longevity of the gobo. How long can you leave the light on before burnout?

The image pro has a fan like in a pc to cool the Gobo slot. It also has heat shields that sandwich the printed Gobo. I have not burned through one.

Steel ones can burn through if you have fine or thin lines.

Check out these
http://proshop.clearwing.com/apollo-barn-wall-gobo-p/ms-2583.htm

http://www.barbizon.com/product_info/rosco-77504-linear-6.html

Robert · Apr 14, 2015

More modern ellipsoidal's have much better heat management than older fixtures. I have gobos that have been used in S4's for years. They do deteriorate and more so on very delicate images. Proper alignment and cleaning of the fixture will help as well. I would also suggest keeping your fingerprints off the image area, though I have no conclusive data on that.

Nate Walczyk · Apr 15, 2015

Personally I like the look of Rosco's "closeup bark" gobo on stage. It's edges are a little rough so it might be more what you're looking for.

Design Help with GOBO ideas.

EOS Addict

Benevolent Dictator

EOS Addict

Well-Known Member

EOS Addict

Member

Well-Known Member

Senior Account Executive

Member

Attachments

EOS Addict

EOS Addict

Active Member

EOS Addict

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

EOS Addict

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Member

Similar threads

Users who are viewing this thread

We value your privacy