You're starting off on the right
foot with some things (like area lighting), but you're getting in to the weeds with others (arranging fresnels large, small, large, small) since that's more of an aesthetic thing.
Please don't be taken aback by the fact that I will answer questions you didn't ask
.
I suggest you do two things first.
1). Note the differences between your large and small fresnels; find what beam angles you have available in your ellipsoidals.
2).
Build a workable
plot based on the inventory you have at your disposal.
What you're looking for is a repertory
plot. Something that can be used for many events, and slightly adjusted to accommodate others. As you imply, rep plots usually start by breaking the
stage in to areas: say, 5 across and 3 deep. However, this
layout depends entirely on the
layout of your
stage. For example, my
stage has a large
apron and requires 3 areas up front, and then two rows of five from the
proscenium back. Figure out how many areas you want (odd numbers across are good as you want a center area), and then balance that with how many instruments you have to light those areas. Don't be too concerned with how things were originally laid out. It's doubtful that there was much rhyme or reason to it.
In its simplest form, an area can be lit by two ellipsoidals in the
catwalk and one
fresnel from overhead. Some people swear by (or are required due to inventory) front lighting an area using only one
ellipsoidal straight-on from the
FOH catwalk -- and it sounds like you may fall in to this
category. What works for you depends on what you like best and of course, what your inventory is capable of supporting. One back light per area is great if you can, but maybe not something to focus too much effort on for the time being.
When you mentioned arranging the fresnels in a "large, small, large, small" configuration, my thought is that it will look nice on the
batten, but that may be the only benefit you receive. Large fresnels are typically intended for longer throws, and small fresnels are generally best at shorter throws. I would look to see which size of
fresnel gives you the most usable pool of light on
stage, and use them to top light your areas (you're generally shooting for 8-10' across per area). Potentially, whatever is left over can be used for color
wash, back light, side light, put on the meatrack for "as-needed" use,
etc. You may even add your larger fresnels to
Electric 1 to front light the areas in the back that you don't have enough ellipsoidals for.
Color washing:
If you're starting out, I probably wouldn't stress over giving every single area the ability to be it's own
RGB color. Instead, see if you can at least divide your
stage in to halves or thirds. I rarely need *this* area to be red. Instead, I'll focus a special in that case. Maybe you can get fancy as time permits, or as you encounter situations which "tell" you what features you need to add to your rep
plot over time.
I agree with
@RonHebbard that your scoops were probably intended to light a
backdrop. That certainly is an antiquated way of doing it, but it can be effective as long as
scoop lamps continue to be available. Scoops also make good worklights. Nothing worse than all your ellipsoidals and fresnels being used for arbitrary things like
orchestra rehearsals, non-tech rehearsals,
etc.
To get started on gels, I have been liking L162 for top light. It's a
neutral, almost light bastard amber, but it isn't as orange-y as
Rosco's R02 Light Bastard Amber.
From
FOH there are a few basic mixes such as R54, R33 for the bouncier/contemporary shows, and R02, R60 for the more traditional "box set" shows. It's all about personal taste though, and I try to experiment with different front light colors any time I get the chance. But having those staple gels in your inventory for lighting flesh tones is a good start. Since you may have to light each area with a single front light, you will probably want to stick to something more
neutral. Otherwise your
stage will look pinkish, orangeish, blueish,
etc.
And of course with all things lighting, there's a lot of personal preference mixed in. What I just described is basically a
McCandless or Modified
McCandless approach. A lot of us use it, and plenty others can't stand it! But I think that in your situation, it is the best place to start.