Drop-in Lamp Upgrade

I was looking into purchasing some discontinued American DJ Utopia 250-s scanners, but the recommended ZB-ELC 24v/250w lamp is quite dim compared to what I want. (Simply reading lumens out put of lamp online). As long as I match it's requirements of 24v and 250w can I run different mr16 lamps inside of it? Such as this one? https://www.bulbamerica.com/products/philips-250w-24v-mr16-13631-elc-fa-gx5-3-fg-halogen-light-bulb

The ANSI code ELC assures the lamp will function roughly the same. The caveat is that brightness, color and life can vary wildly. The linked lamp is rated at 50 hours, the other 300. Some are up to 1000 hours, but will be even dimmer.

Keep in mind that brilliance and lumen output are very different things. In many projection applications, the brilliance of the lamp becomes more important than the total lamp output. For example. a single raw high-output 1 watt LED can be painful to look at due to it's brilliance even though it's total lumen output is not much.

And, as drivers who have had to look at the headlights on new cars with halogen projectors can tell you, that old notebook-paper Volvo, with the same number of lumens in a package 20 times the frontal area, was much less tiring and dangerous.

ELC Philips #23103-5 (A1/259) MR-16, Quartz Dich. 250w/24v MR-16 cc-6 MOL 44.5mm GX 5.3 Base Down ±90° 3,400°K 1,500 Lux 50hr

ELC/FA Philips #924010520500 (#13631) (A1/259) MR-16, Dichroic Quartz 250w/24v MR-16 MOL 44.5mm GX 5.3 Base Down ±90°, Faceted Lens 3,400°K 1,500 Lux 50hr

ELC (FG) Ushio #1000318 MR-16, Dich. Quartz, Specular Reflector 250w/24v MR-16 cc-6 MOL 44.5mm GX 5.3 Avbl w. Lens - Add (FG), Work Dist. 31.7mm, Base down to horizontal 3,400°K 1,500 Lux 50hr

Note: The first Philips lamp could be the same lamp as the second in later described in a catalogue if the frst is not discontinued or re-described possibly with a new part number. Lamps are like the military for part designation... if the same lamp but different packaging box... that requires a new part number. Sometimes the American lamp lags behind the Euro lamp listing of - thus the UPC code. Can take months before an American part number or even listing of it comes out. Both Euro and American lamp company websites - they are different, can be useful for lamp research on lamps in researching both. I track lamps but only started noting when I listed the lamp existing a few years ago & MR-16 listings are not up to date. Lamps I list are known of to have existed, but would have to check if they still do as per the ELC/FA you found which appairently is still being made. UPC code is all I have on the second lamp you found.

In the long run, you will probably upgrade these fixtures in a few years to something else. Balance that with your wish for "turning them up to 11".


-Yes voltage / wattage match up.

-Note the lamp base down to horizontal measurement... that's a limitation that the ZB-ELC probably also has.

-That sounds like a great lamp as with the Ushio! "Premium brands" are also more reliable usually.
Unfortunately these Lux measurements seem bright but are metric measurements not Lumen measurements in comparing to other lamps. See below in I don't have a direct converion from Lumens to Lux. Could be or not, both are more dim than the Osram:
ELC/HLX (?Disc.) Osram/Sylv #54163 (#64653HLX) Lif A1/259) MR-16, Dich. Quartz/Xenon 250w/24v MR-16 (T-3.1/2) c-8 MOL 44.5mm GY 5.3 White Coated Reflect. Any Burn Pos. 35mm Work Dist 880 Lum 50hr
Note the working distance is different. And if the Osram lamp is still made. Otherwise there should be 850 to 800 Lum ELC lamps still on the market.

-The beam spread. (Working Distance in this case - probably when the beam crosses over itself instead of spreading out.) Within ANSI ELC lamps should be within a degree or two the same in tolerences for specication. Should be similar as what is offered by ADJ as a general thing. This might or might be a factor in actual output + possibly damage your fixture. ADJ does not give "Working Distance" specification for their lamp. But amoungst ELC lamps I track, I note a working distance when offered varied from 35mm to 31.7mm when listed. That is huge within a moving light! Unless you can bench focus the lamp within the fixture... that could be a problem.
Overall, if your working distance is different, you will have some stray light being blocked by baffles hopefully, if not screwing with your gobo focus. This if not also heating up components possibly in a bad way. Were this not a reflector lamp, it would be an easy upgrade to a different lamp.

-Filament size Note above Philips and Ushio lamps have a cc-6 lamp, the Osram has a c-8. This will have a slight effect on optics and more so effect on gobos. 2mm In length and slightly different layout of the filament can be especially a problem with gobos'. On the other hand what is the spec's of the ZB-ELC? A smaller filament might have better output and gobo clarity. If similar filament to the ZB-ELC, should be fine. On the other hand, could burn thru your dichroics faster also - more heat smaller point source. (Notes below and looking at a ZB-ELC perhaps you can measure / define it yourself.)

-Lensed lamp. I note a few lamps with lenses. I doubt the ZB-ELC lamp has a lens, but if it does you need a lamp with a lens. Otherwise if not, your non-lensed lamp won't fit or will throw off your working distance optics further. There is a few lensed options.

-Cooling/lenses/dichroics. If your cyc lights are lamped with 1Kw lamps... you know Rx 27 gel won't last a show. Rx-26 perhaps a few? If you have 500w lamps in the Cyc's, it's a different ball game in a smaller scale way. If you have 300w lamps....
These fixtures were designed for the ZB-ELC. If you put a high output lamp into them, might they start burning thru the dichroics? Very possible. Could they overheat the fixture? Possibly - got fog goo going in the air, when is the last time the filters and fans were cleaned, and how many times a year are they? That above the question of a higher luminous output lamp causing more heat in general. Or different working distance of the lamp.

I would go for at least a lamp to try in keeping in mind the working distance might be different - might be the same output and perhaps the ZB-ELC is already a high output. If possible, I would also study the stray light on an opened up fixture with the ZB-ELC lamp in use and compare it to this test lamp so as to compare the working distance. Would light meter or compare output in general between "New" both lamps, and or give it a shot in testing. See if you can figure out the math below in Lux to Lumen conversion - and or someone probably has the math. Even "Backstage Handbook" in first check lists lux to foot candles. On this lamp type, I suspect CBCP (Center Beam Candlepower) as normal also on reflector type lamps does not apply given a "working distance" lamp.


UNIT CONVERSIONS
Inches = millimeters / 25.4
Millimeters = inches * 25.4
Feet = meters / 0.3048
Meters = feet * 0.3048
Centigrade = 0.556 * (Fahrenheit - 32)
°C=°K-273.15
°C=5/9 x (°F-32°)
°F=9/5 x °C + 32°
Fahrenheit = 1.8 * (Centigrade + 32)
Pounds = kilograms * 2.205
Kilograms = pounds * 0.454
Degrees = 180 * radians / PI
Radians = PI * degrees /180

LIGHT OUTPUT CALCULATIONS
a dinner candle provides about 12 lumens. A 60-watt Soft White incandescent lamp provides 840 lumens.
Foot-candles = candela / distance in feet * distance in feet
Foot-candles = Lux / 10.764 = lumens/sq. meter; 1fc=10.764lux
Foot-candles * 10.764 = lumens/sq. meter = lux
Lumens/sq. ft. * 1 = foot-candles; (1fc=1 lumen/ft²)
Lumens/sq. ft. * 10.764 = lumens/sq. meter
Lumens * 0.07958 = spherical candle power
Lumens = Mean Spherical Candlepower x 12.57
Luminous Intensity (cd) = I = Luminous flux in solid angle ÷ solid angle℧(sr)
Lux * 0.0929 = foot-candles
Lux = candela / distance in meters * distance in meters
Lambert * 0.3183 = candles/sq. cm
Lambert * 295.720 = candles sq. ft.
Lambert * 1 = lumens/sq. cm
Illuminance (lx) = E = Luminous flux falling on area (lm) ÷ Illuminated area (m²)
Illuminance (lx) = E = Luminous intensity (cd) ÷ [distance in meters (m)]²
Luminance (cd/m²) = L = Luminous intensidy (cd) ÷ viewed luminous area (M²)
Luminous efficacy (lm/w) = h = Generated luminous flux (lm) ÷ Electrical power consumed (w)
Efficacy=F(lu)/P(w)
F=Luminous Flux
P=Electrical Power (wattage), in watts


LIGHT BEAM CALCULATIONS:
Beam diameter = distance * (2 * tan (beam angle / 2))
Throw distance = Square root [(horizontal dist. * horizontal dist.) + (vertical dist. * vertical dist.)]
Inverse Square Law: E(fc)=I(cd)/D²(ft)² E(fc)=F(lm/A(ft)²
A=Area in square feet
D=Distance in feet
E=Illumination in footcandles
F=Luminous Flux in Lumens
I=Luminous intensity (Candlepowe) in candles
Mired Shift Value = 1,000,000/d - 1,000,000/a
d=Desired Color Temperature (no units)
a=Actual Color Temperature(no units)

Filament notes. (Sorry was personal notes at the time so I did not write down the sources for where I got them. Given they were for the most part in published industry catalogues plagerism should not be a problem. Much less it's known data shared by all sources as standard.)

2c-(x) / 2cc-(x) = (2cc-6 / 2cc-8) A Number Preceding the coil type indicates there are more than one filament in the lamp, on separate contacts. Note, Middle Pin is usually the common or neutral.

c-6 / cc-6 = Filament Coil with Axis of Coil Perpendicular to Pins (Normal Side Supported)Filmt.

c-8 / cc-8 = Filament Coil with Axis of Coil Parallel to Pins (On End Vertical Top&Bottom Supported)