R40 vs. MR16 strips

It seems to me I should be switching them to the 39 degree EYC/GL lamps. Is that what you use?
Unfortunately, that would mean my free fixtures would cost at least $500 to relamp. Thoughts?
Well, I haven't even seen an MR-16 strip in many years, but yes, the EYC 75W/FL/2000hr. is the best lamp to use, unless you can do a double row like @SteveB above. As for a total relamp costing $500, the first hit on teh google has an off-brand for 84 cents ea.: https://www.1000bulbs.com/product/5134/MR16CG-1773.html . Since you didn't say if they were 3 or 4 ckt., I don't know how many lamps you need: 6*30=180, 6*40=240; still a sizable chunk of change.*

Would this be the only cyc/backdrop lighting you have available? Would they be used in every show? Used as a nice set of X-ray s for toning? If nothing else, I'd keep them around even with the SP lamps, as they could be useful as backing strips for a box set.

*Perhaps extend the usefulness of the existing SP lamps with whatever diffusion might be appropriate (R113 comes immediately to mind).
 
Our double hung, overhead strips have EYF spot lamps as the lower set and wash about 2/3 of our 30ft high Cyc.

I use 6 fixtures in spot, with 6 more as EYC flood lamps for the upper portion.

I would just do a test run with 2 or 3 strips and some diffusion. We use either the Rosco R124,125 or 126 primary RGB colors, or use R104 added as cuts in each frame to any other color. Lee 228 is a slightly more dense linear diffusion and works as well.

I could see just using spot EYF lamps alone if you can fly out the electric far enough to get some spread on the lamps.

As note, if these are the L&E MiniStrips, be prepared to do continual socket replacements. The design is such that the round lamp contact pins are only in contact with a small portion of the base contacts, with a result of frequent overheating, with lamp and socket failure. I'm at the point of replacing a socket or two after a few hours of use and with 12 fixtures is a PITA. The Altman ZipStrip is a significantly better design, as BTW
 
They are freaking heavy though!
Ahh! Then be glad you're not working with 12 x PAR56 strips with glass rondels. Heavy AND noisy!!
Toodleoo!
Ron Hebbard.
 
@SteveB , do you have any strong feelings toward the 84 cent lamp to which I linked? What brand lamp do you use?

Have you ever heard of, or adhered to, the myth? that if one lamp fails, one should change the other nine on the circuit as well?
 
@SteveB , do you have any strong feelings toward the 84 cent lamp to which I linked? What brand lamp do you use?

Have you ever heard of, or adhered to, the myth? that if one lamp fails, one should change the other nine on the circuit as well?

I've never used the $.84 version, I think mine are OSRAM. I get a good price from Bulbtronics, maybe $3 ea. but can't recall.

Note for all that follows, that we are talking about a 30 year old fixture and design.

I knew it as "once 3 blown replace all". Never found it mattered, so stopped (after maybe 10 years). It's completely a moot point as the sockets on what are the 2nd generation of MiniStrips just completely suck, so lamp failure is only about 50% of the problems. Did I say the socket sucks ?. At least with the gen. 2 MiniStrip you can replace the socket. On generation 1 the socket was pop riveted in place and all the wiring and butt connectors were on top of the fixture so got all the heat. Generation 2 MiniStrip has the wiring on the back and it's a 10 minute process to change a socket. The Altman ZipStrip has a superior socket that floats and uses a round socket that makes better contact with the lamp.

I think what developed with these was about the time L&E developed this strip, so mid 1980's, the architectural market using this 12v lamp just took off, with a result of a lot of crappy sockets out there. I've yet to find one that works well, but again, an initial crappy design.

One option is to go the Altman route and use their lamp holder and socket (separate items). It's just really pricy, like about $30 for 2 lamp holders and a paired socket as they come pre-wired as series, no single sockets and if memory serves, the wire between the 2 sockets is very short, so you can't cut and separate them. Thus the cheap socket and labor doesn't warrant a $30 alternative.

If/when our $40,000 grant comes thru, we go to ColorForce, even though I don't use the cyc every show. It's the next priority, as right now I cannot rely on my cyc light making it thru a show without a strip failure.

As note to the OP, it's 180 lamps and sockets in your case, 360 in mine. Something to ponder.
 
Unfortunately, mine are L&E mini strips so I'll be dealing with the socket problems.

I have a set of 6 three cell Sky Cycs overhead so these would be adding a little kick from the ground.

I saw the cheap no brand lamps but was skeptical of quality. Looks like around $3 each for lamps from Osram or Ushio.
 
On the subject.... Work is cleaning out the bone yard of lights not used for years. This included all 6' MR-16 Altman strips - TBA the shorter and Micro Strips. I don't get a news letter of what's going away or I will have had a lot of very good quality strobe lights to give away also... gone now. Shorter versions of MR-16 cyc's are probably also on the table for gone. When I found out about the strips, I gave away as many as I could including adding (used for one show) 35w lamps for them. Don't know how many \ if any are still waiting for give away (+tax letter) = at least something of value work can use. Those getting rid of stuff are more considered with storage space than the end results of the lights scrapped. Those removing the lights from the inventory have no lighting background and could care less. (no not persay that, lots of background with some, just less interest in the end result.) Problem = you pick them up, or pay for shipping and that won't be fun. This assuming I think more than 50 still in stock if they have not been recycled already. Scrapping perfectly good lights sucks - this especially given how much time I spent on them over the years. I would differ with the problems and difficulty with them specifically. A lot less problems I'm aware of overall though some.

Yea work sucks at times in that while I don't want strips for museum or I will have had a 1928 in it, I put a lot of work over the years into rigging and fixing the strobes just thrown out, and will have liked to at least have one. :(

Worse still the demise of the DHA light curtions.... in a dumpster - multidudes of dozens of them. I know they were problematic as per the lamp buyer for them - in only a few years ago we bought a lot more fixtures for a tour, a shame. Based on when I was in school for literature about them, will have always liked to at least design with them. Gone now, and probably unique in what they would do. Some of the fixures bought for the last use even came with MFL lamps - that would be curious to see. Or at least.... in gear thrown away, some notice to the lamp buyer/stocker about what lamps are obsolete now would be nice. Year end inventory counted thousands of dollars worth of perfectly good new lamps in stobe, Light Curtain and other fixture lamps. At some point communication with what's obsolete for a lamp in stock would be good for also creating shelf space for the next and brilliant light/lamp this year for storage.

I digress...

"The newer versions also have crappy sockets, I believe due to the huge popularity of the MR16 lamp in the architectural market," I'm not buying that concept, I believe quality is the same or better dependant on socket. Lamp sockets such as G-9.5 get improvements with active popular use (wish the SFc-10-4 would, but it's a good money reason not to.) Such lamp sockets with name brand fixtures don't go down in lamp socket quality - at least since the 50's and late 70's I think in some craziness going on. If a fixture maker is buying in bulk something they tested and designed around, wouldn't they be worried about changing source for parts without a large play test of the lamp socket? Yea... rock and roll PAR 64 lamp sockets are crap and etc. But I don't think on a MR-16 a maker would change to cheaper quality given they already have OEM discount and the volume of sales is already going down due to LED's for market.

R-40's are going away more so than PAR 38's.. While really only 1/8" difference between the lamps, R-40 is something I would stay away from unless wanting to go low output CFL or obsolete first generation LED. That said, there is a concept that you might put into storage your various either R-40 or PAR-38 fixture if you have them and are upgrading. AT some point LED PAR 38 lamps will and indeed are getting towards the output and CRI of that classic 150w range for both to mount or designed around. R-40 strips will work fine wih PAR 38 lamps. Closer every year, and dimmers to do the LED PAR's are about there in being able to control them.

Won't be long until a R-40/PAR38 strip light will again work just fine given better lamps, in going LED for them I think. Put such things away, sustain the lamps - such lamps they use are still available with some work, convert to or just put them away.
 
On the subject....

"The newer versions also have crappy sockets, I believe due to the huge popularity of the MR16 lamp in the architectural market," I'm not buying that concept, I believe quality is the same or better dependant on socket. .

What I know is that the original Generation 1 MiniStrips had few fewer socket failures then the Generation 2 strips. It is pure speculation on my part to suggest that it's because of an increase in the numbers of sockets being manufactured for a different market, but seems likely due to the need to crank these things out in numbers, thus potential changes in design and materials. Possibly a slight change in the metal, using less of it, which changes the spring tension inherent in the socket contact. That in turn applies less pressure on the lamp, thus allowing arcing. ?. Only a guess. The manufacturer is long gone and cannot be asked.
 
Just discovered the Ushio 1000445. It's a 60 degree flood MR 16 and they are about $2 each. SO the price is pretty good.
 
Does anyone have a recommendation on replacement sockets for MR 16 lamps? In an Altman Zip Strip.
I have about 500 lamps in stock, some are 5+ years old so if those are not usable about 200+ lamps.
Because of my current stock I would not be going to LED or other socket.

I see a number of different Bi-pin adapters and ideally would like to get a multi-pack or two (like the packs I see on amazon).
 
Mod. Note: Above post moved here from another location.
 
Does anyone have a recommendation on replacement sockets for MR 16 lamps? In an Altman Zip Strip.
I have about 500 lamps in stock, some are 5+ years old so if those are not usable about 200+ lamps.
Because of my current stock I would not be going to LED or other socket.

I see a number of different Bi-pin adapters and ideally would like to get a multi-pack or two (like the packs I see on amazon).

The socket used by Altman is the best for the application so would recommend it.

It has a round contact surface for each lamp pin that does a resonable job of getting good contact with the lamp.

The alternatives as used by the L&E design had the socket only making contact on the side of tha lamp pin. In my experiences, this leads to contact deterioration. Note that the L&E design is a common type used in about every architectural MR16 I’ve seen, where the socket and lamp holder is a one piece unit. Some arch. sockets have a separate floating cap, but they are not used in MR16 strips that I’ve seen.
 
The socket used by Altman is the best for the application so would recommend it.

It has a round contact surface for each lamp pin that does a resonable job of getting good contact with the lamp.

The alternatives as used by the L&E design had the socket only making contact on the side of tha lamp pin. In my experiences, this leads to contact deterioration. Note that the L&E design is a common type used in about every architectural MR16 I’ve seen, where the socket and lamp holder is a one piece unit. Some arch. sockets have a separate floating cap, but they are not used in MR16 strips that I’ve seen.

Thanks for the information Steve, luckily I do not have any of the L&E types to deal with.

I was actually trying to figure out what I need to take into account when replacing the original sockets (which look like these). Standard 3 circuit Altman Zip Strip.
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Could I replace them with the sockets in this Bi-Pin or similar multi-packs, which are on Amazon? Or a trusted brand someone has used over the years that I could get a bulk discount on.
At the moment my current understanding is that as long as the socket is able to handle 12 V then I should be good.
 
Thanks for the information Steve, luckily I do not have any of the L&E types to deal with.

I was actually trying to figure out what I need to take into account when replacing the original sockets (which look like these). Standard 3 circuit Altman Zip Strip.
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Could I replace them with the sockets in this Bi-Pin or similar multi-packs, which are on Amazon? Or a trusted brand someone has used over the years that I could get a bulk discount on.
At the moment my current understanding is that as long as the socket is able to handle 12 V then I should be good.

I know the Altmans are pretty pricey. As well I seem to recall they wired them up as pair, so you were having to cut down to individuals.

I would be giving the linked items a shot. They have round sockets so should be OK.
 
I ordered some off Amazon to try. With the amount of failures I have to fix and will most likely need to fix some of the larger packs on Amazon look good.
Time will tell what the quality of the sockets are.
 
Do be aware that when one of the bulbs burns out, that socket will see the full line voltage across its terminals. No current through the series-connected lamps means that the other bulbs will not have any voltage drop (as per ohm's law). I'd think for that reason the socket should be rated for 120V AC operation.

Most of the listings had a Max Working Voltage of 250V.
Some listed Max Working as AC/DC 12V/250V.
 
I was wondering if anyone had a link to a how to or method for replacing the socket in a Altman Zip Strip, MR 16.
I bought replacement MR 16 sockets and am trying to find information on what to use to splice the Zip Strip wire with the new socket. My inclination and that of our maintenance department is to use wire nuts. However I am concerned about the temperature that the wire nuts will need to withstand.

If you have replaced sockets in an Altman Zip Strip what method worked best for you?

Thank you for your time.
 
Never use wire nuts!!! They tend to fall off be it bouncing about the theater in going to storage or between pipes, or especially riding about the world in a trailer between shows. Sorry. McMaster Carr #7971k41 is probably the proper high temp. butt splice for the gauge of wire. (Stakon tool or Klien #1006 to crimp) Three layers of tapered #69 High Temp fiberglass electrical tape to insulate it. Otherwise if more than one wire - Ideal as offered McMaster 6878k95, when the various wires are in a ferrule has never been known to fall off. Once crimped ferrule or into the set screw high temp. wire nut, about an inch from the nut use a few layers of high temp. tape or a high temperature cable tie to tie what wires are going into the wire nut together in helping strain relief. Again sorry, wire nuts including ceramic or high temp. plastic normal ones fall off. A better way to do this for our industry above.
 
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