Proper way to use cheeseboroughs

Dagger

Active Member
Is there a proper way to use them?

When attached facing out on the sides, should the latch go up or down? ( on picture)

I am thinking if it gets lose. The latch facing down and screw gravity can hold it from opening and therefore it is safer?
 

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If you have a proper size washer then if it comes loose and gravity kicks in it will stop which ever way it’s hung if it has the lip.


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Even if there isn’t a lip the latch will slip forward and pinch with whatever it’s holding.

As long at the threaded post is in the slot.
 
Yes hand tight with wing nuts

No C wrench ever. Hand tight always when doing shows.

Nutted boroughs you should use a deep well socket. Again not to mar the threads.

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Installs yes you want to do a tool turn and just be careful not to mar the threads.
 
C-clamps need to be tightened with a wrench. Generally nothing tighter than you can comfortably do with a 6" wrench. Anyone walking putting their back into an 8" wrench is just causing unnecessary wear and tear and making it harder for the out.
 
In general with cheeseboroughs, there's no structural difference between them opening up/opening down. That being said, having them with the hinge down/bolt up makes it easier when hanging a large pipe, you can set it in the hinge and then close, rather than trying to hold it open and futz with the bolt while holding weight.
 
The other reason not to use a c wrench in a wingnut is that it’s easy to break off an ear. Using a tool like an Ultimate Focus Tool is safer for the ears.

That said, wing nuts are designed to be a tool free fastener.
 
Also remember cheeseboroughs have no rating when used as in the OPs image. They only are rated when used horizontally, e.g. being used to make a pipe grid.
Really? Lightsource gives a "safe vertical working load" of 1100lbs for their couplers. It's unclear what specific couplers the op picture is, but at least some are rated.
 
Really? Lightsource gives a "safe vertical working load" of 1100lbs for their couplers. It's unclear what specific couplers the op picture is, but at least some are rated.

That is correct. But that 1100lbs is in an overlap configuration. The issue is the term vertical. When light source says vertical they mean the clamp in a vertical orientation, with one half on top of the other. People tend to think of vertical meaning one of the pipes running vertically, which is incorrect.
 
@gafftapegreenia and @egilson1 Could / would either of you care to comment on Kee Klamps, and / or their Canadian clones, specifically one of their cross-over variety supporting a loaded vertical pipe, a boom for example, from a horizontal pipe??
Toodleoo!
Ron Hebbard
I hate Kee Klamps! :angryoldman: There I made a comment.
 
@gafftapegreenia and @egilson1 Could / would either of you care to comment on Kee Klamps, and / or their Canadian clones, specifically one of their cross-over variety supporting a loaded vertical pipe, a boom for example, from a horizontal pipe??
Toodleoo!
Ron Hebbard

So are you talking about doing a tail down from an electric batten?

Something about relying on one set screw makes me nervous, at least speedrail has two set screws. Its probably *fine* but I don't think its an engineered or rated use of the product. No matter what product is used I'd want a safety cable run through the entire pipe.

Perhaps a rotalock is the answer? I asked Bill Sapsis specifically about using Rotalocks for tail downs and he said it was acceptable, just remember that the bolt in a rotalock should always be on the top end.
 
So are you talking about doing a tail down from an electric batten?

Something about relying on one set screw makes me nervous, at least speedrail has two set screws. Its probably *fine* but I don't think its an engineered or rated use of the product. No matter what product is used I'd want a safety cable run through the entire pipe.

Perhaps a rotalock is the answer? I asked Bill Sapsis specifically about using Rotalocks for tail downs and he said it was acceptable, just remember that the bolt in a rotalock should always be on the top end.
@gafftapegreenia Tail down; yes, no and sort of. I'll elaborate:
The venue had two German masking pipes, one on each side, both sharing one common single purchase arbor.
The LD wanted three 22' booms per side. The director wanted the deck kept clear; the PM said "Use six Kee Klamp cross-overs, torque the cup-point set screws and they'll be fine. The LD wanted six or eight Century Strand 2209 / 2212 PER boom AND he wanted them all on boom arms on the same side of the vertical boom / tail down. With all the arms off the same side of the vertical, gravity would've attempted to tilt the vertical from its 90 degree forging and put additional rotational stress on the Kee Klamp cross-overs. We compromised with four 2200 series armed on the D/S side and the other four 2200 series armed on the U/S side. The production was 'Peter Pan'. The Foy fellow and myself both thought the booms looked FAR too scary, even more so with their bottom ends approximately ten feet above the deck. They all hung there for the entire run of the production (three weeks) and the Kee Klamps all went back into stock to live another day. One 22' length of 1.5" schedule 40 with six or four (dependent on which boom) boom arms and six or four Century Strand 2200 series PER Kee Klamp. (And a 6 circuit drop box plus a bunch of two/fers for good measure) I'd say the Foy fellow was right to be concerned. Neither his nor my names were on it. (Thankfully) We had six spare Kee Klamps and added them on the vertical boom / tail down immediately above the KeeKlamp supporting each vertical boom / tail down. This was the childrens' Christmas production between Christmas and New Years 1992.
I grimace at the memory.
Toodleoo!
Ron Hebbard
 

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