Proper way to use cheeseboroughs

Yikes. Glad I wasn't a part of that.

Last time I was around for something like that, the metal shop fabricated lighting ladders with pick points and sliding T's captured permanently on the rungs. After motoring them into position they were dead hung from the grid. A dozen or so lights per ladder, and a mover on the bottom. The only stumbling block there is knowing you have a trustworthy welder.
 
gafftapegreenia said:
Yikes. Glad I wasn't a part of that.

Last time I was around for something like that, the metal shop fabricated lighting ladders with pick points and sliding T's captured permanently on the rungs. After motoring them into position they were dead hung from the grid. A dozen or so lights per ladder, and a mover on the bottom. The only stumbling block there is knowing you have a trustworthy welder.
Click to expand...
@gafftapegreenia A trustworthy welder and tethering your ladders when the movers start gyrating.
(A really good welder would've used clear pine dowels and an Oak rod.) [The trick's in the flux.]
Toodleoo!
Ron Hebbard
 
egilson1 said:
That is correct. But that 1100lbs is in an overlap configuration. The issue is the term vertical. When light source says vertical they mean the clamp in a vertical orientation, with one half on top of the other. People tend to think of vertical meaning one of the pipes running vertically, which is incorrect.
Click to expand...
I reached out to light source today because I was curious.

While you are correct that vertical in this usage is in a pipe grid, and that has an 1100lb SWL, the email I received back from light source did say that they rate their couplers for 200lbs SWL with an 8:1 Design factor when used in a "goalpost" configuration, if tightened to 50ft/lbs. Much less rating, but it appears they do have one.
 
MNicolai said:
C-clamps need to be tightened with a wrench. Generally nothing tighter than you can comfortably do with a 6" wrench. Anyone walking putting their back into an 8" wrench is just causing unnecessary wear and tear and making it harder for the out.
Click to expand...
i agree but want to add that the problem with over tightening is that it is possible with some brands of C-clamps to bend the threaded shaft of the bolt. if you do that, it is impossible to remove, using a wrench. a second 'but': if you do make one, or see one, you will not forget.

There's a kind of 'sweet spot' of tightening which is snug, then a little more pressure, til you can feel a 'limit' approaching. stop there.
 
geoffrey hugh said:
i agree but want to add that the problem with over tightening is that it is possible with some brands of C-clamps to bend the threaded shaft of the bolt. if you do that, it is impossible to remove, using a wrench. a second 'but': if you do make one, or see one, you will not forget.

There's a kind of 'sweet spot' of tightening which is snug, then a little more pressure, til you can feel a 'limit' approaching. stop there.
Click to expand...

You are generally more likely to break the clamp body by over tightening. I’ve only ever done/seen that on like 2 clamps in 40+ years. I do know you can remove a clamp whose steel square head bolt is bent by using a hacksaw.
 
SteveB said:
You are generally more likely to break the clamp body by over tightening. I’ve only ever done/seen that on like 2 clamps in 40+ years. I do know you can remove a clamp whose steel square head bolt is bent by using a hacksaw.
Click to expand...
@SteveB To cut the bolt, NOT the clamp; right??
Toodleoo!
Ron Hebbard
 
Fun fact, if you ever need to replace that large bolt, it’s actually a 1/2”-13 square head cup point set screw, according to McMaster.
 
SteveB said:
You are generally more likely to break the clamp body by over tightening. I’ve only ever done/seen that on like 2 clamps in 40+ years. I do know you can remove a clamp whose steel square head bolt is bent by using a hacksaw.
Click to expand...
my experience is different. as i mentioned, different brands of clamp may respond differently. i worked in IATSE Local 1 jurisdictions. i saw several bent bolts, and only while touring did i ever see fractured clamps. two, actually. and yes, of course, the only way to remove the bent bolt is using a hacksaw. i also qualified my remark by naming a wrench as the tool.
 
Well folks it’s happened to me some how this came back from a gig.

74696BDB-6BFA-4D2D-8A9B-76E8B8899803.jpeg
2BD91BDC-8E9F-4A1E-8468-E8A4D1EA213F.jpeg
41587876-9ABE-49E8-8C16-7903C0EBD6DA.jpeg


So it can happen. This went out just fine. So remember don’t crank it if you don’t have to.
 
I gotta say, Ive never seen one half cracked. Its usually all or nothing.
 
I feel like I'm constantly warning students not to over tighten C clamps, but for good reason. And I still come across the occasional ones that are difficult for me to move with an 8" wrench. They get nervous about yoking fixtures and really want to make sure it won't go anywhere.
 
The only time I really crank “hard” is when I’m roostering a fixture on a lighting tree that’s pipe and base. Cause that crap is notorious for waiting til the 4th fixture to decide to dip and you gotta start all over again or muscle the pipe back and crank on the borough.
 
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