Questions on the Source 4WRD

ndp

Fun Director
So we'll be buying two of the new Source 4WRD Color units in the next month or so. I have a few related questions about them.

Firstly, all of our Source Fours have Mega-Couplers from The Light Source mounted to them. To store the fixture, we have a pipe rack - the yoke of the fixture is centered over the rear cap and the fixture is hung on the pipe with the lens tube facing the floor, straight down.

So my first question. With the cap replaced with the Source 4WRD unit - is it possible to bring the yoke above and centered to hang the fixture like that?

Second question - these use RJ-45 rather than DMX connectors. It is a safe bet to get the ETC adapters and just store them plugged into the fixture? Are they robust enough for this purpose?

Thanks.

- Nick
 
Without knowing the dimensions of your storage rack and in which hole on the yoke your fixtures are mounted... let's assume it's "standard" and say "yes" it should work. Now if you have a non factory standard yoke bolt, a non factory standard c-clamp, or you're short yoking them... maybe? Always the safest bet when storing fixtures to move the barrel all the way in and to check your clearance.

I wouldn't store my adapters on the fixtures unless I was comfortable with their protection and strain relief... but that's me. They're also not a terrible adapter to make if you have the crimper for RJ-45 and are skilled at terminating DMX.
 
Thanks for the info. Here's the best pic I could find on the storage setup. Perhaps a lower-profile nut will be warranted?

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- Nick
 
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Maybe I'm wrong, but that "bolt" sure looks to me like a nyloc nut on a stud (that I assume must be integral to the clamp). If that's the case, a lower profile nut could be used but would not affect the overall clearance any unless some sort of a spacer were inserted between the clamp and the yoke, or unless the stud were cut off. I'm not so sure I'd personally be particularly keen on either of those options, though they could be workable.

Making (or buying) a longer yoke might be a reasonable option if needed, too. They aren't exactly complex precision mechanisms, after all.
 
All I can say is that S4WRD Color will swing through the yoke with a standard 1/2-13 bolt head and flat washer affixing it to the c-clamp. That spec was a key factor in the product development-and caused more than a bit of angst in the development team.

If you are using a higher profile fastening method like the nyloc and stud shown, you may have to adjust.
However, please try it--there might just be adequate clearance!

ST
 
Firstly, all of our Source Fours have Mega-Couplers from The Light Source mounted to them.
Good lord, why? While mega-coupers are okay for movers, the supplied c-clamp is so much better for conventionals.
Oh, and, it'll be easy to spot the Source4WRD Color units (see what I did there?) - the ones with "old skul" clampage.
Disregard all of the above if units are used with aluminum tube or trussing...still thinking on that one...I hate (truss) condoms and pennies...I wonder if Apollo still sells that nifty gadget thingy.
 
Disregard all of the above if units are used with aluminum tube or trussing...still thinking on that one...I hate (truss) condoms and pennies...I wonder if Apollo still sells that nifty gadget thingy.

Bingo. We got away from the C-clamps several years ago for that exact reason - probably 90% of the time these fixtures are mounted to aluminum box truss, as we don't have any permanent rigging besides a fly system in our main theatre. We have a steady supply of truss condoms, and plenty of fixtures that still have C-clamps, but it is annoying.

- Nick
 
Good lord, why? While mega-coupers are okay for movers, the supplied c-clamp is so much better for conventionals.

When using ally bars and truss, as mentioned, c-clamps and hook clamps can definitely cause damage. Also at least one manufacturer (at least here in the UK) specifically forbids using hook clamps for overslinging. So it can make sense to use half couplers or trigger clamps everywhere, even though they cost more.
 
I've fought enough with the brass knurled screw on S4-PAR s with half-couplers (you have to remove the lamp cap to swing the fixture)... Ever the pessimist, I'm going to say the 4WRD won't clear the nut and bolt-end of the standard half-coupler. Possibly consider a version of the fabulous Mega-Claw, the Mini-Claw . More for price than for size.

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Commenting on the RJ45 adapter.
When you plan on using these fixtures, do you plan on having many hung in the same position?
I think it would make sense to have your adapters in a bin along with other adapters since I presume you'd usually have a bunch of fixtures cabled with simple cat5 and you'll really only need the adapter at the end of a run.
 
Commenting on the RJ45 adapter.
When you plan on using these fixtures, do you plan on having many hung in the same position?
I think it would make sense to have your adapters in a bin along with other adapters since I presume you'd usually have a bunch of fixtures cabled with simple cat5 and you'll really only need the adapter at the end of a run.

All our intelligent are DMX, and we're only buying two of the Source4WRDs so not really. But I think we will keep the adapters in our lighting workbox so they don't get messed up as that comes to every lighting event they would be used at.

- Nick
 
Sorry--never heard of that. In my day, if an instrument had a problem we took it down and fixed it then & there. There were rarely such things as "spares."

And perhaps not treat them badly to start with, so to not require undue service? Maybe? ✅
 
Thank for letting us know.

Gloating ala Debbie Reynolds: Told ya so, told ya so, told ya, told ya, told ya so.
Ever the pessimist, I'm going to say the 4WRD won't clear the nut and bolt-end of the standard half-coupler.
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We never asked before: Where are these units hanging? How often will they need to focus straight down? Is the straight down just for storage on the meat rack ?
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If the unit must point straight down to focus, hang the unit so its yoke is 10-15° off vertical, yoke leaning upstage or downstage, whichever provides the most room adjacent. Should have no problem pointing straight down. Wish I'd thought of this 15 or so posts ago. :( I've done it hundreds of times to fit more fixtures on a meat rack.
 
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In a church space I work in there's 4 original Source 4wrds. Today when programming one gave the error code "OtP"which based on ETC's documentation is over temp. I did what the document said, set DMX to 0 to reset the fixture. I did for about 10 seconds, then brought the light back up to 75% and it was ok.
What worries me is - they've only been on for about an hour + the AC is set at 68 because I was running cables and got sweaty, how and why would this fixture overheat in this circumstance? Should I request service? Should I look for something on the fixture?

For some clarity - the space is clean, no haze. The lights have been blown off and vaccumed about every 6 months since install in 2018. They're used 3-6 hours per week. They're in DMX mode - always plugged into power, dimmed via dmx.
Thanks for your hive mind all :)
 
I couldn't tell from a quick glance at the manual, but it's possible they may report their temperature via RDM. I know other ETC LED fixtures do... Might be worth taking a look at that to see if you can tell how warm it thinks it is and compare that to the ambient temperature at the fixture. Are they in a spot where the air may be stagnant and heat could build up above the overall room temp (ceiling cove or something similar)?
 
In a church space I work in there's 4 original Source 4wrds. Today when programming one gave the error code "OtP"which based on ETC's documentation is over temp. I did what the document said, set DMX to 0 to reset the fixture. I did for about 10 seconds, then brought the light back up to 75% and it was ok.
What worries me is - they've only been on for about an hour + the AC is set at 68 because I was running cables and got sweaty, how and why would this fixture overheat in this circumstance? Should I request service? Should I look for something on the fixture?

For some clarity - the space is clean, no haze. The lights have been blown off and vaccumed about every 6 months since install in 2018. They're used 3-6 hours per week. They're in DMX mode - always plugged into power, dimmed via dmx.
Thanks for your hive mind all :)
Please call ETC technical support. They will no doubt have a solution or a replacement to solve your issue.

ST
 

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