Control/Dimming 2'x4' LED Panel Control - ETC Foundry or Echo

[wahlwesle]

Unfortunately, I lost my budget to new air conditioning duct. We discovered that all of the insulation had deteriorated around the duct feeding our classrooms. So, we will just be retrofitting the existing troffers with non-dimmable direct wire LED tubes, which we have had success using in the rest of the building. This will be about half the price of the LED panels alone, not to mention removing the need for the relay panel and wall control. Maybe we can tackle this project sometime in the future when funds become available again. Thanks to everyone for your help.

 

[NDGgirl514]

HI.

I would totally go with a native 0-10V dimmable LED panel. Don't let anybody try to sell you retrofit LED tubes... They have a mind of it's own when it comes to dimming.

The ETC foundry solutions(s) (mini panels or zones controllers) are a very good solution. You could also use the DMX source of your choice with a Pathway 1004 Demultiplexer (DMX to 0-10V card).

Best.

Hi Max,

I could have used your advice earlier but I came across your post too late and had already been roped into getting the retrofit LED tubes. The dimming is all messed up. Any suggestions what to do now or have you come across any fixes?

 

[RonHebbard]

I am new to this forum and new to lighting in general, but I have done some research to try and educate myself before asking questions. I have been the sound guy at our church for quite some time, and have the fortunate opportunity to look at ways to improve the lighting in our sanctuary.

The sanctuary is currently lit by 21 2'x4' non-dimmable florescent troffers. The age of the current troffers and ballasts have led to constant problems with lights flickering and not working. The ceiling is 18' tall, so changing bulbs and ballasts by ladder is a pain; hence the desire to switch to LED lights of some sort. I recommended that we investigate using 0-10v dimmable LED panels to improve ambiance during holiday programs and such. Dimming to 0% is not necessary. If we can get something to dim to 10-20% without issues it would be acceptable.

I wanted to provide the ability to control the lights with a DMX theatrical controller to future proof the system if we ever decide to upgrade our stage lighting or add some color washing, but maintain a simple entry station control for everyday use. I have received a proposal from a rep at Full Compass (I have not received much when going directly to ETC) which included the use of an ETC Foundry Mini Panel and a Doug Fleenor Design wall station. This seems like a good proposal for our budget (~$1,000 for the controller) and needs, but I wanted to get some feedback since there was very little information on the Foundry system other than ETC's website.

I also noticed their Echo system. It wasn't immediately clear to me the benefits, if any, of this system over the proposed Foundry and DFD combination. Has anyone had any experience with either of these control systems for the application I am describing? I have seen other posts where people have wanted to do something similar with control, but referring to LED panels was not apart of any of those discussions.

Calling @jfleenor
Toodleoo!
Ron Hebbard

 

[tyler.martin]

Hi Max,

I could have used your advice earlier but I came across your post too late and had already been roped into getting the retrofit LED tubes. The dimming is all messed up. Any suggestions what to do now or have you come across any fixes?

Can you post the model number of the LED Tubes?

How are the fixtures being powered? Is there a switch in-line or a dimmer?

 

[FMEng]

Hi Max,

I could have used your advice earlier but I came across your post too late and had already been roped into getting the retrofit LED tubes. The dimming is all messed up. Any suggestions what to do now or have you come across any fixes?

There are three kinds of LED retrofit tubes.

Type A: The flo tubes are simply swapped with LED, and the existing ballast remains in the circuit. No rewiring.
Type B: The ballast is removed and the fixture is rewired to apply 120V to the tube socket. The fixture is rewired.
Type C: An LED driver, that looks similar to a ballast, is installed to power the tubes. The fixture is rewired.

If you have type A or B tubes, they will not dim. Only type C is dimmable, if the driver is designed for it. Usually, a 0-10V control signal has to be applied to the driver to enable dimming. The driver and tube have to be matched.