Control/Dimming 3-circuit "Clip Light (aka, Belt Light) chasing with transformers

[Tweedle]

Hey all.

Using: American Lighting Products

4-wire (3 Hot, 1 Common) 24V, .96W (per lamp) "Clip Light" for a chase effect around an archway.

In-House System: ETC Sensor+ Dimmer Racks (2.4kW). Neutral is shared throughout.

Chase would be controlled via dimming system (not remote chase effect unit).

Question: In wiring the transformers to the bare ends of the "clip light" cable, the shared common would basically three-fer into the output of each of the transformers?

See diagram.



Just so I'm not crazy. This should work, right?

 

[epimetheus]

Looks like it will work to me. Just make sure there's a fuse or circuit breaker in each circuit somewhere to protect that 18 gauge wire.

 

[WooferHound]

Make sure that all your dimmers are on the Same Phase or it will not work with a shared common connection.

 

[derekleffew]

Make sure that all your dimmers are on the Same Phase or it will not work with a shared common connection.

Incorrect.

 

[Tweedle]

Make sure that all your dimmers are on the Same Phase or it will not work with a shared common connection.

Yea. That's not right. Only the 3 hot legs are separated into phases. The neutral is common... in all circuits. Whether they branch off to the separate racks post-main service disconnect wouldn't matter.

 

[JD]

Bigger problem may be getting a low wattage lamp on a transformer to work on a dimmer. You may have to put ghost loads on those three circuits. (ex- 100 watt bulb in a drop light, hidden off stage.)

As said above, common is fine.

 

[hobbsies]

Looks like it will work to me. Just make sure there's a fuse or circuit breaker in each circuit somewhere to protect that 18 gauge wire.

Is it good practice to put fuses on everything w/ zipcord? I'm wiring together 8 sconces on one circuit w/ zipcord, connected to a 2.4k dimmer. Should the fuse go at the end of the circuit or by each sconce?

 

[Les]

Is it good practice to put fuses on everything w/ zipcord? I'm wiring together 8 sconces on one circuit w/ zipcord, connected to a 2.4k dimmer. Should the fuse go at the end of the circuit or by each sconce?

What's the wattage of those sconces? Eight sounds like a lot for that little old zipcord. Any chance you could split them in to two different circuits at least? And I've never heard of anyone fusing things like this. IF you were to fuse them, you would want the fuse at the beginning of the line protecting the wiring, not at the sconce (it really doesn't protect much in that location).

 

[Les]

Bigger problem may be getting a low wattage lamp on a transformer to work on a dimmer. You may have to put ghost loads on those three circuits. (ex- 100 watt bulb in a drop light, hidden off stage.)

As said above, common is fine.

Even with a ghost load, you may run in to problems with a transformer running on dimmer-supplied power. I've never had a real issue with short [production] runs, but your mileage may vary. Proceed with caution.

 

[epimetheus]

What's the wattage of those sconces? Eight sounds like a lot for that little old zipcord. Any chance you could split them in to two different circuits at least? And I've never heard of anyone fusing things like this. IF you were to fuse them, you would want the fuse at the beginning of the line protecting the wiring, not at the sconce (it really doesn't protect much in that location).

My thinking comes from Christmas lights mostly. Since the wire is not rated for 20 amps (the rating of the dimmer breaker), the situation exists where the wire could melt before the dimmer breakers trips. Hence the 5A (or smaller) fuse built into the plug of Christmas light strings.

 

[hobbsies]

What's the wattage of those sconces? Eight sounds like a lot for that little old zipcord. Any chance you could split them in to two different circuits at least? And I've never heard of anyone fusing things like this. IF you were to fuse them, you would want the fuse at the beginning of the line protecting the wiring, not at the sconce (it really doesn't protect much in that location).

Very low wattage on 18ga zipcord.

 

[QUEMedia]

Hey all.

Using: American Lighting Products

4-wire (3 Hot, 1 Common) 24V, .96W (per lamp) "Clip Light" for a chase effect around an archway.

In-House System: ETC Sensor+ Dimmer Racks (2.4kW). Neutral is shared throughout.

Chase would be controlled via dimming system (not remote chase effect unit).

Question: In wiring the transformers to the bare ends of the "clip light" cable, the shared common would basically three-fer into the output of each of the transformers?

See diagram.

View attachment 4006

Just so I'm not crazy. This should work, right?

Hi,

1st off, I'm new to Control Booth. I have used it many times in the past for answers to various questions, but this time figured it was about time to join as I think it's a great community.

Moving on, was there every a definitive answer to this Question? Tweedle, were you able to make this work? If so, do you have pictures or a final wiring diagram? I need to do the same thing pretty much. I'm doing a production of Guys & Dolls and wanted to use some 5 Wire Chasing Belt Light, however, I want it to be controlled from the Ion Console we will be using as opposed to the manufactures remote chase effect unit. Dimming will be as above, through a ETC Sensor+ system. I could go through the trouble of building a case system myself, wired in parallel, however, I though that if this works then why not just go this route right?

Thanks in advance for any and all help!

 

[danTt]

Yes, that's the "proper" way of dealing with belt lighting. It's not the nicest stuff to splice, strip, and use, but it it does function most of the time.

 

[QUEMedia]

Yes, that's the "proper" way of dealing with belt lighting. It's not the nicest stuff to splice, strip, and use, but it it does function most of the time.

Thanks a lot, much appreciated!