At work and for a customer’s permanent install, I have been requested to install some switches on some architectural dual lamp/dual ballast fluorescents. Not a problem, intent is for a photo studio to control the lamps separate for output reasons, and with dual ballasts that’s simple enough. Simple project, install a suitable grade of switch in-line before the power to the ballasts. Got lots of left over switches that came off Mole Light audience blinders which are sufficiently heavy duty... This should be sufficient for a fluorescent fixture mount, I say I’ll do the project.
Than the by way of the sales person that has already sold the project, the customer specifies what switches he wants to use and a red flag goes off in the back of my head. Unlike in other stuff however, that red flag while theorized as not such a good idea I can’t express for certain why.
Customer wants to use rotary based pull chain and rotary based turn switches such as one might find on a table lamp or pull chain from a overhead light or fan. It’s just something about the rotary snap switch both have in common that I for some reason beyond home owner grade switches have a concern about when used on a 40w fluorescent lamp. Don’t know why yet. Any ideas or the real reason I shouldn’t do this?
My theories are ranging that the spring snap contact of the rotary switch, and the higher amperage startup of a fluorescent lamp, even if the switch is rated for the amperage, it will tend to wear out the home owner grade switch faster. The heat by way of resistance to good contact and phase harmonics plus start up amperage... But of this, while the switch probably won’t last as long as a more heavy duty one, the switch still should function to some extent sufficiently - at least as sufficiently as in that of a 240w or more watt home owner grade eight lamp light fixture in cold start using a rotary switch.
Than again, at least on the pull chain switch, I understand that this fixture will be mounted overhead and for some reason they want localized control over it instead of running the fixture to a wall switch. I won’t be installing the gear and it’s theorized that it’s a temporary install, nor will I be dealing with the perspective chain hanging down in the photo... Not aware of a more industrial grade of pull chain switch... perhaps I take apart a porcelain pull chain for standard surface mount lamp socket it will have something more industrial in a pull chain switch, but other than that possibility I’m told they would loose any wireless remote and a wireless wall mount switch is out of budget.
So, short of me re-reading a bunch of texts read in the past that no doubt were telling me something that now sticks in the back of my head as a concept but doesn’t come to mind, any ideas on why not to do this sufficient the customer won’t want to do it?
Follow up to this is that today I installed a chain hanging fluorescent fixture over my metal working area at work. That’s up to code or at least to the point that work doesn’t want me running conduit and instead it’s cord run across a beam than down the wall. Like the flexibility concept which is ok to a point as long as that concept allows me to at some point do a land grab for more space. On the other hand, conduit is easy enough to install, move and re-install as needed, at least for me who doesn’t make the rules about such things.
None the less, I left the thing on by accident tonight after I went home. I’m not going back in, turning off the alarm etc. to turn this off once I noted it from an outside window and already in my car. Each worktable or desk in my area has a set of localized switches at the work table that kills the power to it and is easy enough to see as one leaves for the night or is easy enough to remember as one goes home. The metal working area on the other hand is different. I go back there at random to cut or drill stuff, or just find raw materials and am in and out or there all day long dependant upon what’s going on. It’s a fluorescent so turning it off and on frequently or even motion sensing the area wouldn’t work. Plus there is shop cats which wander about the building while nobody is there. A pre-set timer switch also wouldn’t work, it’s too random between the standard and long hour days. Today on a Sunday, it was only 5.1/2 hours, on Monday it will be 12.1/2 or more.
I’m thinking something like a four hour timer switch to control the lighting in the back work area. I have a one hour timer already mounted on my 3.6v cordless screw driver battery charger and it seems to help battery life in a high harmonic disturbance environment. - Lots of computers and moving/strobe lights. This turning off the power completely for the small batteries, over that of surge suppressers or the isobar power strip I have on my 14.4v battery chargers - doubtfully working better than nothing helps a lot for battery life. Four hour periods of time on the fluorescent would probably be sufficient in me turning it on no more than twice a day, but as with the above, not so sure how healthy fluorescents run off such a timer switch would be, or if it’s the best proper use of it.
Such gear would be more industrial but any thoughts?
Than the by way of the sales person that has already sold the project, the customer specifies what switches he wants to use and a red flag goes off in the back of my head. Unlike in other stuff however, that red flag while theorized as not such a good idea I can’t express for certain why.
Customer wants to use rotary based pull chain and rotary based turn switches such as one might find on a table lamp or pull chain from a overhead light or fan. It’s just something about the rotary snap switch both have in common that I for some reason beyond home owner grade switches have a concern about when used on a 40w fluorescent lamp. Don’t know why yet. Any ideas or the real reason I shouldn’t do this?
My theories are ranging that the spring snap contact of the rotary switch, and the higher amperage startup of a fluorescent lamp, even if the switch is rated for the amperage, it will tend to wear out the home owner grade switch faster. The heat by way of resistance to good contact and phase harmonics plus start up amperage... But of this, while the switch probably won’t last as long as a more heavy duty one, the switch still should function to some extent sufficiently - at least as sufficiently as in that of a 240w or more watt home owner grade eight lamp light fixture in cold start using a rotary switch.
Than again, at least on the pull chain switch, I understand that this fixture will be mounted overhead and for some reason they want localized control over it instead of running the fixture to a wall switch. I won’t be installing the gear and it’s theorized that it’s a temporary install, nor will I be dealing with the perspective chain hanging down in the photo... Not aware of a more industrial grade of pull chain switch... perhaps I take apart a porcelain pull chain for standard surface mount lamp socket it will have something more industrial in a pull chain switch, but other than that possibility I’m told they would loose any wireless remote and a wireless wall mount switch is out of budget.
So, short of me re-reading a bunch of texts read in the past that no doubt were telling me something that now sticks in the back of my head as a concept but doesn’t come to mind, any ideas on why not to do this sufficient the customer won’t want to do it?
Follow up to this is that today I installed a chain hanging fluorescent fixture over my metal working area at work. That’s up to code or at least to the point that work doesn’t want me running conduit and instead it’s cord run across a beam than down the wall. Like the flexibility concept which is ok to a point as long as that concept allows me to at some point do a land grab for more space. On the other hand, conduit is easy enough to install, move and re-install as needed, at least for me who doesn’t make the rules about such things.
None the less, I left the thing on by accident tonight after I went home. I’m not going back in, turning off the alarm etc. to turn this off once I noted it from an outside window and already in my car. Each worktable or desk in my area has a set of localized switches at the work table that kills the power to it and is easy enough to see as one leaves for the night or is easy enough to remember as one goes home. The metal working area on the other hand is different. I go back there at random to cut or drill stuff, or just find raw materials and am in and out or there all day long dependant upon what’s going on. It’s a fluorescent so turning it off and on frequently or even motion sensing the area wouldn’t work. Plus there is shop cats which wander about the building while nobody is there. A pre-set timer switch also wouldn’t work, it’s too random between the standard and long hour days. Today on a Sunday, it was only 5.1/2 hours, on Monday it will be 12.1/2 or more.
I’m thinking something like a four hour timer switch to control the lighting in the back work area. I have a one hour timer already mounted on my 3.6v cordless screw driver battery charger and it seems to help battery life in a high harmonic disturbance environment. - Lots of computers and moving/strobe lights. This turning off the power completely for the small batteries, over that of surge suppressers or the isobar power strip I have on my 14.4v battery chargers - doubtfully working better than nothing helps a lot for battery life. Four hour periods of time on the fluorescent would probably be sufficient in me turning it on no more than twice a day, but as with the above, not so sure how healthy fluorescents run off such a timer switch would be, or if it’s the best proper use of it.
Such gear would be more industrial but any thoughts?
