Way back when
Colortran used to sell a
PAR 64
fixture that had a handle on it’s rear so as to adjust the beam. ISU had them and I remember having used them and liking the thought.
Kupo otherwise sells a attachment that might or might not work for your
fixture in being a add on handle/cap assembly that grabs the lamp
base and allows you to spin it without reaching your
hand into the cap. It's a handle and a ring that is sold as a seperate item that clips to the lamp
base and spins in the hole in the back of the can. Good product, very good design idea for solving this problem. Should list price in around the $10.00 each range.
In some discussions with their rep, it would seem that they had two choices in getting their version of the
PAR 64
UL listed. Either they could
screen the back of the can so nobody could reach their
hand into it and get shocked which they do for the normal
fixture. Or sell it with a adjustment knob they also sell. The
screen otherwise is easily removable in using the now no longer
UL listed fixture. Not sure how other sources such as Penn, American DJ, TMB or TomCat (much less
Altman with their own steel or aluminum versions) get away with non-screened or handled fixtures but for at least the Kupo version, it was screening it off so you could not reach your
hand into it or use of the after market adjustment knob.
Tried the Adjustment knob on some TMB fixtures, didn’t work so well. Worked some but not as well as might be expected in being just slightly off in use on another brand. The handle for adjusting the
bottle might or might not work so well on other fixtures but would also be a good solution no matter if stiff in use or free working.
Otherwise there is solutions that can be done in ensuring that you won’t get shocked. First is the splice or doing away with it in converting the heat
wire off the lamp
base to the
fixture cord. No
cord means longer heat
wire whip and no splice to fail. After that better splicing methods also ensure wires don’t come loose from a
terminal block, grounds stay tight and it’s safe inside the can. Further still is better quality than the off the shelf lamp bases. The Osram
PAR 1 lamp
base for instance is of highest quality. Still further is fiberglass spaghetti tubing inserted over the heat
wire next to the lamp
base. Should the
conductor melt down you still have a outer coating over it. There is options, mostly in doing your own wiring instead of wiring from no matter who is supplying the can.
Used to be where I work, you were not worth your salt unless you at one
point were shocked by attempting to spin a
bottle. I would be surprised by anyone shocked by one of my upgrades to the cans in recent years. No reason to be shocked by properly maintained gear, much less a well thought out wiring
system for them.
