Air-Gap Relay or Smart Plug

As for "smart plugs," I was thinking something like the WeMo plug or similar. It connects to a wireless network (we have an isolated lighting network with wireless connectivity), and uses an app to turn on and off. Here is a link for it: https://www.belkin.com/us/p/P-F7C063/
That's a really small relay if there is one squeezed into there. But, it's rated at 15A, and if it's a triac, that's a lot of heat in a plastic enclosure... Plus, it's on 2.4 GHz - there's a lot of traffic in that band as it is.


Let's flip the situation: Do you really want to add an extra layer of potential failure?

My advice would be to use the existing dimmers, or leave lights powered for a while, and have a plan to improve things properly when you get enough funds to do it right.



I know I'll take some heat for this, but with most dimmers set in non-dim mode, the output power is not the "death wave" we imagine it is.

If I have the time and an assortment of dimmers, I'd run some test. I've got all the test equipment here, but only dimmers we mfgr and few rock & roll shoe boxes from a past life... well, there is that Leviton NDS I pulled out of a rack...



Oh yeah, time. Maybe if I get an intern.
 
I'm not sure what all is inside it, but I did find on their website (I think in there FAQ section, but don't remember) that there is a heat safety device built in that will deactivate the plug if it heats up too much. I know everyone gets concerned about 2.4 GHz devices, but that hasn't been an issue here (yet). Plus, they only have to have a reliable connection before the show when they are turned on, then after the show to turn off again. Losing connection in the middle of the show doesn't change its power state.

I am no longer concerned about the dimmers being an issue, as I found some information out about our dimmer racks that say the waves are not modified when set to non-dim. I just need a solution for the rooms without dimmers, but I feel much better about only needing one relay instead of the multiple relays I was thinking earlier.

After everyone's feedback about using a smart plug, I no longer plan to propose it as an alternative. I just thought it might be a cheap solution to a problem, and I have personal experience with multiple smart plugs that I haven't had issues with once they are setup.

Thank you to everyone that took the time to give me some advice on this.
 
Has anyone ever put a scope on the output of major brand dimmers at 100%, and *looked* at the waveform?

The problem with doing that is that some dimmers provide regulation in order to preserve tungsten filament life. If the line voltage is nominal, it may look quite sinusoidal, with nothing anomalous but a fraction of a volt glitch around the zero crossing. If the line voltage runs high, the waveform will get chopped to maintain the proper RMS value. The appearance of the waveform will vary considerably depending on local conditions.
 
The problem with doing that is that some dimmers provide regulation in order to preserve tungsten filament life. If the line voltage is nominal, it may look quite sinusoidal, with nothing anomalous but a fraction of a volt glitch around the zero crossing. If the line voltage runs high, the waveform will get chopped to maintain the proper RMS value. The appearance of the waveform will vary considerably depending on local conditions.
That's why it would be useful to hook them up in a lab where the input can be varied.
 
That's why it would be useful to hook them up in a lab where the input can be varied.
@Chris Pflieger Next query; how would you vary the source voltage: Auto-transformers, preserving the entire original wave form other than the height? Tapped transformers, still preserving the entire original wave form other than the height?? Series resistors??? Series inductors???? Surely not SCR's, TRIAC's, IGBT's or other solid state devices????? Please make me an offer.
Toodleoo!
Ron Hebbard
 
The problem with doing that is that some dimmers provide regulation in order to preserve tungsten filament life. If the line voltage is nominal, it may look quite sinusoidal, with nothing anomalous but a fraction of a volt glitch around the zero crossing. If the line voltage runs high, the waveform will get chopped to maintain the proper RMS value. The appearance of the waveform will vary considerably depending on local conditions.

This is true, but only part of the problem--and not one you have to worry about if the dimmer system has a true non-regulated mode. The other issue is that decent theatrical dimmers usually also have a big inductor (choke) in series with the load to help reduce filament noise. This is good for incandescent dimming, but bad for some electronic power supplies. It's difficult to predict whether a particular power supply is going to interact badly with that choke, so generally testing is required. To do that properly, you should have the ability to mockup a fully loaded circuit with the fixtures you plan to use, and take a look at the voltage and current waveforms on an oscilloscope. That's why ETC never says, "It's okay to use *generic fixture* on our dimmers in non-dim mode." It would be impractical for them to try to test all the possible fixtures from other manufacturers in order to make that claim. They do say that they've tested their fixtures with their dimmers and don't expect any problems (as long as you do actually configure it correctly at the rack, and not just park it at full in the console).

@Chris Pflieger Next query; how would you vary the source voltage: Auto-transformers, preserving the entire original wave form other than the height? Tapped transformers, still preserving the entire original wave form other than the height?? Series resistors??? Series inductors???? Surely not SCR's, TRIAC's, IGBT's or other solid state devices????? Please make me an offer.
Toodleoo!
Ron Hebbard

These days, this kind of testing would typically be done using a programmable power supply capable of synthesizing various voltages, frequencies, and even things like harmonic distortion and other kinds of interference. They're very cool toys, and very expensive.
 
These days, this kind of testing would typically be done using a programmable power supply capable of synthesizing various voltages, frequencies, and even things like harmonic distortion and other kinds of interference. They're very cool toys, and very expensive.
Very.

I used things like that for automotive testing - a waveform generator connected to a +/- 20V 4A amplifier. That's only 80W, I can't imagine using such a setup for 340V and 25A; that's two orders of magnitude larger!

EDIT:
I guess such a beast exist for AC testing, and it's only $7600.
http://www.testequipmentdepot.com/b...3000-va-programmable-ac-power-source-9833.htm
 

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