Conventional Fixtures Altman 65Q problem

[decoss]

I have an Altman 65Q that I can't get to work. I've swapped out three lamps..BTL 500/Osram..and none of them work. A visual inspection of the lamps found no evidence of burn-out.

I disassembled the fixture and connector to see if there was a bad connection. There wasn't.

I visusally inspected the socket and didn't see any discoloration.

The fixture failed after about a five minute on period.

What am I missing?

 

[Les]

Maybe this is obvious, but have you plugged a known working fixture in to the same channel to confirm that the instrument is actually getting power?

 

[decoss]

One more thing...this instrument is almost brand NEW!

 

[Anvilx]

Are these known to be working lamps have you verified them in another fixture?

 

[decoss]

Yes I have. It has an edison plug, so I've been testing it at home in a known outlet.

 

[decoss]

Yes, I have tested them in other fixtures.

 

[derekleffew]

I have an Altman 65Q that I can't get to work. ... A visual inspection of the lamps found no evidence of burn-out.
I disassembled the fixture and connector to see if there was a bad connection. There wasn't.
I visually inspected the socket and didn't see any discoloration. ...

Aye, there's the rub.:shock: Sometimes electrical continuity issues aren't visible.

1. With the lamp installed and the fixture unplugged, test for continuity by setting your VOM/DMM to "Ω" and touching one probe to the connector's hot pin and and the other to the neutral pin.
2. Remove lamp and check by touching one probe to the center contact and the other to the side of the lamp's base.
3. Check the fixture's wiring by touching one probe to the plug's hot pin and the other to the center contact of the socket. Repeat with the neutral pin and the side of the socket. As long as you're at it, although this wouldn't prevent the lamp from lighting, put one probe on the ground pin and the other to any part of the metal housing.

If Test#1 fails, the problem will be either 2 or 3. If the problem is #3, a bad contact or broken wire, it may be intermittent depending on how/where the wiring harness is flexed.

What's that? You don't have a multi-meter; or don't know how to use one? Rudimentary testing of electrical circuits is one of the first skills a stage electrician should acquire! (Right after appropriate Safety Training.)

 

[xander]

Aye, there's the rub.:shock: Sometimes electrical continuity issues aren't visible.

1. With the lamp installed and the fixture unplugged, test for continuity by setting your VOM/DMM to "Ω" and touching one probe to the connector's hot pin and and the other to the neutral pin.
2. Remove lamp and check by touching one probe to the center contact and the other to the side of the lamp's base.
3. Check the fixture's wiring by touching one probe to the plug's hot pin and the other to the center contact of the socket. Repeat with the neutral pin and the side of the socket. As long as you're at it, although this wouldn't prevent the lamp from lighting, put one probe on the ground pin and the other to any part of the metal housing.

If Test#1 fails, the problem will be either 2 or 3. If the problem is #3, a bad contact or broken wire, it may be intermittent depending on how/where the wiring harness is flexed.

What's that? You don't have a multi-meter; or don't know how to use one? Rudimentary testing of electrical circuits is one of the first skills a stage electrical should acquire!

derek, you're my CB hero

 

[Anvilx]

Aye, there's the rub.:shock: Sometimes electrical continuity issues aren't visible.

Derek you beat me to it. And you just got bonus points for the step by step instructions.

 

[decoss]

Thanks! I tried all three tests and the instrument passed them all. In another thread I read about problems with the sockets in these fixtures. In poking around in the socket I found that the spring mechanism that seats the bottom of the socket to the bottom of the lamp was sticking so that there wasn't a good connection. I manually 'fiddled' with the spring to loosen it up and the unit now works.

What can i use to lubricate the interior of the socket. Spray silicone?

 

[dcollins]

If that's true, then the socket is probably also corroded. If it is, it must be replaced.

 

[decoss]

There is absolutely No corrosion in the socket.

 

[ship]

There is absolutely No corrosion in the socket.

Just freed up a Altman Q-Lite base with McMaster Carr #7437k15 electrical contact cleaner with lubricant. Not rated for the temperatures but so far in up to 5Kw Fresnels, including for the spring such was used on, no problems them as opposed to other stuff like deoxidants in gumming up. Craig Deoxidant perhaps I'm told in its various forms an exception for connection but not a lubricant. Some working in of the function of spring was required but overall what was stuck was no longer stuck.

 

[decoss]

It has been almost a year since my original post on the 65Q problem. Guess what? I now regularly clean and lubricate the sockets in the fixtures and they still fail regularly. First they, then they don't. I open the housing, remove the lamp, fiddle with the spring connector in the socket, reassemble, and le voila, it works again. There is no visable corrosion on the lamp bases or in the socket. I'm thinking that the newer 65Qs are just junk. I may try to sell them on e-bsay and replace with S4 parnells. I just don't trust these instruments anymore. (Yes, I tried Ship's McMaster-Carr contact cleaner. Did not work any better that just palpating the spring.

 

[decoss]

I skipped the part about the instruments failing again after my freeing=up process. They will fail as soon as 2 hours of service or cycling on about 4 times.

 

[Les]

I'm thinking that the newer 65Qs are just junk. I may try to sell them on e-bay and replace with S4 parnells.

Keep in mind that Altman did not manufacture the socket assembly, so it may be that their choice of supplier at that time was not the best.

A quick Google search brings up a direct replacement Ushio socket for $26.16. That's not much more than the cost of one lamp, and a lot less than the losses you would take by replacing the fixtures (even though having new fixtures is always fun).

US P28S #1001264 | USHIO | Sockets

It might also be worth a phone call or email to Altman regarding the issues you've been having. This may be a known issue and maybe they'll send you some new sockets. I'd try it - especially since you've had issues since (almost) day 1.

 

[JFine]

I may try to sell them on e-bsay and replace with S4 FRESNELS.

Fixed your post.

 

[decoss]

I did exchange emails witrh the support enginers at Altman. Bottom line, tough noogies! It appears that the Altman franchise is giving up on quality and customer service

 

[josh88]

Fixed your post.

Maybe his plan really was to replace them with the parnel?

 

[decoss]

You are correct. I'm looking at the S4 parnells and fresnells. More expensive, but much more reliable!